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Old 08-16-2012, 01:44 AM   #1816
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[QUOTE=Paul L;11099002]Hi Peter. if it is a carpet track ( less than 100ft long normally) a battery will last almost forever. First off battery's in mod will deteriorate faster than in stock do to the high amp draw. but that being said on a 100ft track even a old battery will propel a mod car with a 4.0 or 4.5 motor to enough speed where a new battery is not necessary, fast enough is fast enough.
On a huge outdoor track i could see a newer battery being a slight advantage in mod or sock. I would say that if you bought one new pack per season you would be doing fine, two you would never be at a disadvantage and three you would be overdoing it. but with battery's, things can change with technology.


well thank you paul


I order the tp TP820CD charger with two tp's 6000mAh lipo's I'm ready to fight on my home track (My home track is where the last wk 1/10 190mm was held nice en fast circuit

greeting peter
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:03 AM   #1817
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Hi.

No i don't account for tire flex and Yes It is kinda hard to explain because of your question, I don't lift the car until the tires come off the ground. I lift the car until the droop screws hit or the shocks stop extending or as long as the axles are the same distance from the board as at rest. as soon as the axles are lifting but the tires are still touching i would call it false droop.

Its all one of those things that would be very easy if we weren't typing.
Thanks!. paul

I have a set of droop blocks and ride height gauges but I have wad over and over that no pro drivers uses the droop blocks. I have wad many times the exact technique you describe but I cannot find a video or someone to show me. Perhaps you could video yourself checking droop?

Here is the technique I use. First, I set my ride height at 5mm. I then slide the ride height gauge in till it is 2mm over ride eight. In this case 7mm. I then adjust the droop screws until both tires are barely touching the pit board. In my head, this is 2mm over ride height.

This doesn't seem to be enough droop however. I think I may be doing it wrong.
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Old 08-16-2012, 11:54 AM   #1818
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I have a set of droop blocks and ride height gauges but I have wad over and over that no pro drivers uses the droop blocks. I have wad many times the exact technique you describe but I cannot find a video or someone to show me. Perhaps you could video yourself checking droop?

Here is the technique I use. First, I set my ride height at 5mm. I then slide the ride height gauge in till it is 2mm over ride eight. In this case 7mm. I then adjust the droop screws until both tires are barely touching the pit board. In my head, this is 2mm over ride height.

This doesn't seem to be enough droop however. I think I may be doing it wrong.
If that is the correct technique I'm set.
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Old 08-16-2012, 06:36 PM   #1819
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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
I have a set of droop blocks and ride height gauges but I have wad over and over that no pro drivers uses the droop blocks. I have wad many times the exact technique you describe but I cannot find a video or someone to show me. Perhaps you could video yourself checking droop?

Here is the technique I use. First, I set my ride height at 5mm. I then slide the ride height gauge in till it is 2mm over ride eight. In this case 7mm. I then adjust the droop screws until both tires are barely touching the pit board. In my head, this is 2mm over ride height.

This doesn't seem to be enough droop however. I think I may be doing it wrong.
That is the way that would be perfect if the tire did not have air gap, when doing it that way you are measuring the tires flex as droop which is why you would end up with very little droop. when saying 2mm's above ride height i refer to the shock travel will allow the chassis to come up 2mm before topping out. you could use your method perfect if you were using set up wheels instead of race tires.

hope that helps clarify a bit

thanks
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:36 PM   #1820
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
That is the way that would be perfect if the tire did not have air gap, when doing it that way you are measuring the tires flex as droop which is why you would end up with very little droop. when saying 2mm's above ride height i refer to the shock travel will allow the chassis to come up 2mm before topping out. you could use your method perfect if you were using set up wheels instead of race tires.

hope that helps clarify a bit

thanks
I do have setup wheels, trouble is that they are not the same diameter as the tires. I guess it doesn't matter. I could set the ride height, then put the setup up wheels on, push the gauge in til it rests on the chassis, then raise it up to my desired rise and then adjust the droop screws.

Does it make sense that on our smaller track we would need more droop?
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:51 AM   #1821
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I do have setup wheels, trouble is that they are not the same diameter as the tires. I guess it doesn't matter. I could set the ride height, then put the setup up wheels on, push the gauge in til it rests on the chassis, then raise it up to my desired rise and then adjust the droop screws.

Does it make sense that on our smaller track we would need more droop?
Yup, As long as you set the ride height on race tires before putting the set up wheels on, the diameter of the set up wheels will not matter.

I don't know that it is always true but i could see needing more droop on a smaller track being ok. smaller tracks are normally lower speed and tighter corners by nature. normally more droop gives more steering so more droop could be more suited. But i don't think track size is a good overall rule of thumb for droop settings.

Thanks
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:10 AM   #1822
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When doing droop over ride height with the tires on I use one hand to put pressure on the tire, and lift the shock tower, then measure, its important to not use force, just lift until the screw hits the chassis. When you are done, lift the end of the car from the center of the shock tower and verify that both wheels leave the pit board at the same time, and then slowly drop the car onto the pitboard and watch the links, they should both move in parallel, if not make slight adjustment to each side.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:06 AM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi Peter. if it is a carpet track ( less than 100ft long normally) a battery will last almost forever. First off battery's in mod will deteriorate faster than in stock do to the high amp draw. but that being said on a 100ft track even a old battery will propel a mod car with a 4.0 or 4.5 motor to enough speed where a new battery is not necessary, fast enough is fast enough.
On a huge outdoor track i could see a newer battery being a slight advantage in mod or sock. I would say that if you bought one new pack per season you would be doing fine, two you would never be at a disadvantage and three you would be overdoing it. but with battery's, things can change with technology.
Hi Paul... is this in regards to 2S/Sedan racing?

Can you comment on battery life/longevity for 1S/12th scale?
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Old 08-17-2012, 01:57 PM   #1824
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Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
When doing droop over ride height with the tires on I use one hand to put pressure on the tire, and lift the shock tower, then measure, its important to not use force, just lift until the screw hits the chassis. When you are done, lift the end of the car from the center of the shock tower and verify that both wheels leave the pit board at the same time, and then slowly drop the car onto the pitboard and watch the links, they should both move in parallel, if not make slight adjustment to each side.
I I also hold the tires down while checking the droop to allow you to feel when the suspension top's out. Thanks!

Quote:
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Hi Paul... is this in regards to 2S/Sedan racing?

Can you comment on battery life/longevity for 1S/12th scale?
Hi.
I dont race 12th scale on a consistent enough basis to say for sure. I got 2 new packs for the birds in jan, in March they were still very good and i raced them at the nationals. also used them at a race in new york after and they were still fine, but when i went to cycle them for the worlds in july they had lost performance in every category so i did not use them. they were still fine to run but 30 or so sec short at 35Amps and the voltage was down. it might be a good idea to have a beater pack or two for practice and buy a new one or two every 4-6 months for racing.
Lets say i am to get 4 new battery's next year, i would want one new one every three months as apposed to 4 new ones right at the beginning of the year.

Hope that helps
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Old 08-23-2012, 01:15 PM   #1825
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Hei Paul

I'm running a Thunder Power 13,5T with an LRP Stock Spec II, and are struggling a bit to get a fast car.
Do you have a setup I could start with here?

Thanx,

OJ
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:18 PM   #1826
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Hei Paul

I'm running a Thunder Power 13,5T with an LRP Stock Spec II, and are struggling a bit to get a fast car.
Do you have a setup I could start with here?

Thanx,

OJ

Hi OJ. sorry for the delay, I just got back from a race.

Can you tell me the track size? then i will do a little work on my end and suggest a rotor, gear, timing. also is it the original software in your speedo?

Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:49 AM   #1827
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Hi OJ. sorry for the delay, I just got back from a race.

Can you tell me the track size? then i will do a little work on my end and suggest a rotor, gear, timing. also is it the original software in your speedo?

Thanks!
Hi Paul.
Thanx for the reply.

The next race is on a medium small track with a long straight on 40 meters.
It has 1 large 45 degrees turns on each side, and has 5 180degrees turns.

I have the latest software and a standard 13.5T motor. No special rotor.

When I go on a larger track, will the main changes a couple of teeth down on the pinion?

Thank you for your help!

Best regards

OJ
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Old 08-28-2012, 11:37 AM   #1828
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Hi Paul,
I have an Xray 008 I've been attempting to run in VTA and my car is very loose on power on exit. It has the locked front diff or spool. I have tried just about everything; ride height, camber, shock oil, springs, more rear toe, and if I have good tires on the front and back the car is loose on exit. If I use bald front vintage tires and good tires on the back it's better. But, at a VTA race there has to be some tread on both the front and rear. Thanks.
Mike
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Last edited by MD; 08-28-2012 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 08-28-2012, 12:42 PM   #1829
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Hey Paul,

I hope you had a relaxing time at the Nationals and enjoyed your stay.

Can you share your setup for that race?

Thanks,
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:19 PM   #1830
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Yo Paul, Its Damon.... I just sent you a PM, check it out and get back with me.
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