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Old 08-10-2012, 07:05 PM   #1801
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Paul, I know you were going to try cars with and without the new central servo mounting method. Did you prefer it or not find any difference.

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I cant honestly say for sure that i noticed a deference BC their were other changes in the two cars other than the servo mount. I really like the concept of the servo mount but im not sure it will always be a noticed difference.

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Hey Paul,
Whats your recommendation for using LG1/LG2 with heat on solaris hards? Have you found anything that works specifically at Leisure Hours? Thanks!
I have not done much application testing at Leisure hours, i think that cleaning with LG1 then LG2 with warmers for 20min at 60deg C will work well. I will test it this weekend. Thanks


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Originally Posted by bucketboy View Post
Paul, Do you have the front tighter because you run mod which can cause the belt to slip or is there a handling advantage? I tend to run my rear slightly tighter than front but both pretty slack (13.5 and 10.5 boosted) is it worth me adjusting them.

Bb
Hi. I like to run the front tighter because it is a much longer belt and naturally has more overall slack and stretch to overcome when accelerating, I feel like when i run the front and the rear at the same tension the car can drive more loose on power by the rear belt having more drive than the front. Having the rear belt on the loose side with the front belt just a hair on the tight side normally makes the car more predictable when getting on the throttle hard.

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Old 08-10-2012, 11:42 PM   #1802
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Thanks Paul!

Bb
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Old 08-10-2012, 11:49 PM   #1803
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What dictates how you change shock oil? I understand what it does, I just can't seem to comprehend the how and why part of it for sedan.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:39 PM   #1804
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Thanks Paul!

Bb
No problem

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What dictates how you change shock oil? I understand what it does, I just can't seem to comprehend the how and why part of it for sedan.
Hi. I think it is circumstantial depending on how your car is set up in the first place, and everyone will have a different answer. But for me i don't really consider bumps in to the equation, i normally worry about handling and chassis balance. Also i don't get too caught up in "pack" because i don't completely understand it's effects myself.
In the front i know that thicker oil or smaller pistons ( a thicker feeling shock ) gives the car the feeling of being more reactive or more initial steering. In the center of the corner the car will not roll as much but i cant say for sure weather the car will have more steering or not. then during exit or accelerating the thicker front oil will keep the front end from lifting as much. which i normally feel like it gives the car more forward traction. I normally prefer a little thicker front oil than my competition, but as with anything "Too much of a good thing is bad".
Normally in the rear i adjust the oil with the suspension point settings to have the rear roll properly. For me their has not been a major shock break threw lately. I always like a slightly stiffer spring in front and a slightly thicker oil set up in front, this is because of the more inboard shock location on all touring cars which leads to the feel being softer and less progressive in the front than the rear.

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Old 08-14-2012, 03:49 AM   #1805
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Today Paulington LeMieux gets a gold star for not only using the word "circumstantial" .............but spelling it correctly also.

Times are changing.
I'm proud of you son.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:24 AM   #1806
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
Today Paulington LeMieux gets a gold star for not only using the word "circumstantial" .............but spelling it correctly also.

Times are changing.
I'm proud of you son.
He's probably using google chrome, it has a spell check.
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Old 08-14-2012, 08:22 AM   #1807
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Thank you Paul, that made sense!
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:10 AM   #1808
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In looking at your setup sheets you've listed droop as 2mm above ride height front and 2.5mm above ride height in front. Does this mean your droop settings are 7mm front 7.5 rear assuming your ride height is 5mm front and rear? I'm trying to wrap my head around your droop while using the hudy droop blocks as well as the gauge. Thank you!
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Old 08-15-2012, 01:17 AM   #1809
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Hello Paul, congrats on the worlds warmup win. I've always enjoyed watching you race. I've taken a break from RC for some time and I'm new to gear diffs. I race VTA and I'm considering trying one or even two. What gear diff oil would you recommend for a starting point. front and rear? I've thought considered just using one in the front rather than a spool. What would you recommend? Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:12 PM   #1810
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Originally Posted by Josh Hohnstein View Post
Today Paulington LeMieux gets a gold star for not only using the word "circumstantial" .............but spelling it correctly also.

Times are changing.
I'm proud of you son.
see answer below.

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He's probably using google chrome, it has a spell check.
YUP!!

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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Thank you Paul, that made sense!
Great, no prob.

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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
In looking at your setup sheets you've listed droop as 2mm above ride height front and 2.5mm above ride height in front. Does this mean your droop settings are 7mm front 7.5 rear assuming your ride height is 5mm front and rear? I'm trying to wrap my head around your droop while using the hudy droop blocks as well as the gauge. Thank you!
Hi. I don't use the droop blocks. I will set the ride height, then set the tweak, then after this i will set the droop by feeling how much the shocks come up, once it is equal side to side (you will feel when it is) then i measure it as mm's above ride height. It can be hard to understand but if you ever see me, come over and i will show you. So if i have 5mm's of ride height and 3mms of droop, the car will measure at 8mms above ground just as the shocks top out.

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Originally Posted by RCknight View Post
Hello Paul, congrats on the worlds warmup win. I've always enjoyed watching you race. I've taken a break from RC for some time and I'm new to gear diffs. I race VTA and I'm considering trying one or even two. What gear diff oil would you recommend for a starting point. front and rear? I've thought considered just using one in the front rather than a spool. What would you recommend? Thanks in advance.
Hi. Glad your back at it!

I would start with 2k in the rear. that seems to be the median number at the moment for the rear diff. It is still split between gear diffs and spools in the front. most people that use gear diffs use putty, The serpent or exceed putty being the most common. What you want to do then is make tiny little balls of putty and put a little silicone oil on your fingers (2k is fine) then you want to rub the putty balls with the slightest silicone film. then you will put the ring gear in the diff then smash a few of the balls on it, then put the spider gears in (push down) and pack some more in then assemble the diff. Personally I don't like that method at all BC it is not very consistent and depends on the build dramatically for its thickness.
I think i saw that specR has released 1million CST silicone diff oil. That is what i would try before doing the putty thing anymore.

see ya!
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:35 PM   #1811
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how many thunder power lipo's you use in a season

greetings peter
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Old 08-15-2012, 02:41 PM   #1812
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I think i saw that specR has released 1million CST silicone diff oil. That is what i would try before doing the putty thing anymore.

see ya![/QUOTE]

LMI has 2million silicone oil, look here: http://www.lmi-racing.com
This works fine for me
Thanks

Ed
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Old 08-15-2012, 03:25 PM   #1813
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Hi. I don't use the droop blocks. I will set the ride height, then set the tweak, then after this i will set the droop by feeling how much the shocks come up, once it is equal side to side (you will feel when it is) then i measure it as mm's above ride height. It can be hard to understand but if you ever see me, come over and i will show you. So if i have 5mm's of ride height and 3mms of droop, the car will measure at 8mms above ground just as thyaw hocks top out.
How do you account for the tires and the flex in the rubber. Do you lift the car until the tires come off the ground?
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #1814
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how many thunder power lipo's you use in a season

greetings peter
Hi Peter. if it is a carpet track ( less than 100ft long normally) a battery will last almost forever. First off battery's in mod will deteriorate faster than in stock do to the high amp draw. but that being said on a 100ft track even a old battery will propel a mod car with a 4.0 or 4.5 motor to enough speed where a new battery is not necessary, fast enough is fast enough.
On a huge outdoor track i could see a newer battery being a slight advantage in mod or sock. I would say that if you bought one new pack per season you would be doing fine, two you would never be at a disadvantage and three you would be overdoing it. but with battery's, things can change with technology.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eded1 View Post
I think i saw that specR has released 1million CST silicone diff oil. That is what i would try before doing the putty thing anymore.

see ya!
LMI has 2million silicone oil, look here: http://www.lmi-racing.com
This works fine for me
Thanks

Ed[/QUOTE]
perfect, Thanks!

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Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
How do you account for the tires and the flex in the rubber. Do you lift the car until the tires come off the ground?
Hi.

No i don't account for tire flex and Yes It is kinda hard to explain because of your question, I don't lift the car until the tires come off the ground. I lift the car until the droop screws hit or the shocks stop extending or as long as the axles are the same distance from the board as at rest. as soon as the axles are lifting but the tires are still touching i would call it false droop.

Its all one of those things that would be very easy if we weren't typing.
Thanks!. paul
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Old 08-15-2012, 09:54 PM   #1815
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YOWZA !!! its definitely worth looking there !

http://www.lmi-racing.com
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