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Old 07-09-2012, 07:10 AM   #1756
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
Paul,

Since the discussion is on rear toe, I'll write a book.
I usually don't use Hudy gauges on my car for set up, but I was going through my mod car the other day to prep for race and came across something peculiar. The manual states that a 1.5 mm shim in the rear of the rear arms will yield 3* of toe in overall when used with the std 0* hubs and no shims on the front of the rear arms. I double checked that the front arm mount was in fact 1 mm narrower than the rear as well. No Hagberg modification. When I measured toe using the gauges it showed just a hair over 2*. It was exactly the same left to right. I thought I must just have something weird going on with that car so I checked another of my T3's and 3 other T3's around our track with the same results.


Q1-When you measure, or indicate rear toe are you basing the values off of gauges, or the manual?
Q2-Any idea whats going on with the discrepancy between the gauges and the manual?
Hi Andrew, I use the gauges when i measure toe, sometimes it is not perfect but i am satisfied if it is less than 1/2 of a degree off from side to side. I normally remember the car having 3deg with a 1.5 shim. BC i used to use 1.9mm and that gave me 3.5deg rear toe on the gauges. so i dont really know ? sorry. i could be wrong also though??

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Hi Paul,

Have u tested the new servo mount? A friend and me tried it on our cars and we noticed that when the mount is placed correctly according through the applied manual, the servo can stil move for like 3-5 mm.. I dont use a servo saver but my friend does use the kit servo saver and we both have the same problem. When driving the car (on the mach , worlds warm up track) i noticed my car tented to push to the outside of corners and i felt i was understeering the car alot.. , so now im back to the normal mount and my car drives like a dream again..

Your thoughts please

best regards,
Jan
Hi, I have used the new servo mount but i have not truly tested it back to back, I know that the servo can be forced forward and back with it but i have not experienced any trim change or the servo flexing side to side. I like the idea a lot but i cant say yet if it is good to use all the time or in some conditions or what. For the WC i will have two cars, one with and one without.

Thanks
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Old 07-10-2012, 02:30 PM   #1757
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Hi Paul,

I know you weren't at the the last ETS race, but it was mentioned that some of the racers where going to change their shock tops from aluminum to plastic, any idea what they where trying to get out of this change? I know the Xray doesn't have different tops, but, just looking for an opinion.

Thanks and wish you much luck at the Worlds.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:53 PM   #1758
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Hi Paul,

I know you weren't at the the last ETS race, but it was mentioned that some of the racers where going to change their shock tops from aluminum to plastic, any idea what they where trying to get out of this change? I know the Xray doesn't have different tops, but, just looking for an opinion.

Thanks and wish you much luck at the Worlds.

Hi, I don't know for sure but i think that this was mentioned mainly for the Yokomo drivers. Again this is totally a assumption, but i think that the aluminum caps use a bladder and foam like most TC shocks, and the plastic caps use no bladder with a bleeder screw, like the old style YOk/associated caps.

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:03 PM   #1759
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Paul, on1/12, when gearing, you use Rollout compared to FDR i know. Im curious, with FDR if i want to gear for more speed compared to punch i gear up and achieve a smaller FDR. Now with one 1/12, is it the opposite? If i want more top end, like in blinky 17.5, do i go up or down with my pinion. I know going up seems correct for more top end, but my Rollout goes up as well unlike how when you go up in gear with a tc the FDR goes down. Hopefully that makes enough sense for you to get me straight. Thank you... oh, and although its prolly been 10 years since youve run blinky 17.5 or 13.5 in gtp, how similar is the gearing between the two and any idea on a rollout for a track like snowbirds? Thanks a lot, Chad
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Old 07-10-2012, 07:45 PM   #1760
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Paul good luck at the Worlds. Bring it home for us. Hope to see you at Leisure Hours soon.
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Old 07-11-2012, 02:08 PM   #1761
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Good luck at the worlds paul, I also hope to see you at Leisure Hours soon
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:17 PM   #1762
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Originally Posted by Tekin Prodigy View Post
Paul, on1/12, when gearing, you use Rollout compared to FDR i know. Im curious, with FDR if i want to gear for more speed compared to punch i gear up and achieve a smaller FDR. Now with one 1/12, is it the opposite? If i want more top end, like in blinky 17.5, do i go up or down with my pinion. I know going up seems correct for more top end, but my Rollout goes up as well unlike how when you go up in gear with a tc the FDR goes down. Hopefully that makes enough sense for you to get me straight. Thank you... oh, and although its prolly been 10 years since youve run blinky 17.5 or 13.5 in gtp, how similar is the gearing between the two and any idea on a rollout for a track like snowbirds? Thanks a lot, Chad
Hi Chad. Yes i understand what you are saying. roll out and FDR are really just two different methods that racers use.
Final Drive Ratio measures how many revolutions the motor must turn to turn the axles one revolution. Roll out calculates how far the car will travel with one revolution of the motor. so with roll out your number will get bigger with a bigger pinion. with FDR your number will get smaller with a bigger pinion.
But in any situation a bigger pinion is more top speed.

hope that's what you were looking for.

Thanks

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Paul good luck at the Worlds. Bring it home for us. Hope to see you at Leisure Hours soon.
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Good luck at the worlds paul, I also hope to see you at Leisure Hours soon

No promises, could do well but would be really easy to be way back also.
Thanks for the support, see ya soon
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:32 PM   #1763
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Paul, i have a T2 '007 US edition that im trying to get back into a run able condition. It has an 8.5 in it, any ideas on a mellow setup for asphalt that i could possibly put on it? Any help would great.

Thanks, RJ.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:18 PM   #1764
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Paul, i have a T2 '007 US edition that im trying to get back into a run able condition. It has an 8.5 in it, any ideas on a mellow setup for asphalt that i could possibly put on it? Any help would great.

Thanks, RJ.
Hi RJ. If it were me i would take a set up from a different model that worked well and try it. Maybe my set up from the on road nats last year. Here it is
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...&setup=t3_2011

Good luck!
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Old 07-16-2012, 05:30 AM   #1765
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Hi Paul,

I got so use to seeing you at all the big nitro races I forgot about your thread. Haven't seen you this year and I'm guessing it's because of your hectic world traveling schedule. Anywho, I'm rooting for you at the Worlds. I hope that race is as good to you as the pre-worlds was.
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:38 AM   #1766
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Hi Paul I have the thunderpower 65C, Do you discharge your lipo after race or before charging if so what are your setting for discharge?
Thanks and good luck for upcoming race.
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Old 07-26-2012, 08:18 PM   #1767
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I'm running a thunderpower 17.5 with the high torque rotor 30 degrees of timing and 3.88fdr on a t3 12 and I am coming off the track at 190 after 6 minutes? Is that normal? This is at mikes hobby shop. 90 foot straight max.
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Old 07-26-2012, 11:46 PM   #1768
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I'm running a thunderpower 17.5 with the high torque rotor 30 degrees of timing and 3.88fdr on a t3 12 and I am coming off the track at 190 after 6 minutes? Is that normal? This is at mikes hobby shop. 90 foot straight max.
I hope you don't mind me answering; I know Paul is at the Worlds...
That temp sounds about right at our track, especially if you're running with a low power fan, or no fan. I would definitely try to get the temps under 180* to keep the motor working at its best however. I would suggest going up to near a 4.0. Driven correctly, I don't think it will give up any time on the clock.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:28 AM   #1769
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I'm running a thunderpower 17.5 with the high torque rotor 30 degrees of timing and 3.88fdr on a t3 12 and I am coming off the track at 190 after 6 minutes? Is that normal? This is at mikes hobby shop. 90 foot straight max.
Hey Mackey. Is it the blue or green HT rotor. Last night I was running the green 12.5 HT and I actually ran a really high fdr at 4.31 (100/44). I was keeping up on the straight with everyone and had great rip on the infield I turned the timing down to 25* and came off at 115. I bumped up to 37* and came off at 145. Like AWD said try running 100/47.
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:19 AM   #1770
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I hope you don't mind me answering; I know Paul is at the Worlds...
That temp sounds about right at our track, especially if you're running with a low power fan, or no fan. I would definitely try to get the temps under 180* to keep the motor working at its best however. I would suggest going up to near a 4.0. Driven correctly, I don't think it will give up any time on the clock.
I couldn't agree more about the driven correctly part! Time to drop some more teeth
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