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Old 04-12-2012, 11:16 AM   #1606
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Hi. I would think that LG2 would be the best in most cases at leisure. I would start by cleaning the tire with LG1 let dry, then apply a very small amount of LG2, let dry and run. After the tires are pretty well broken in i would say just to use LG2. if you apply the proper amount of LG2 (very little) it should tack up, not greasy in 10-20min.
Thanks Paul,

We went through several brands of compound last year until I tried the LG2 - night and day difference from the others we'd tried (and it doesn't stink up the whole toolbox)... great stuff! Picked up the LG1 in the off-season, been waiting all winter to try it.
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:13 PM   #1607
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Hi. I run the rear belt as loose as possible and the front belt a little snug. doing this just makes the car much nicer to drive on throttle. I go threw 2 rear belts to every one front belt, the rear belt being much shorter simply gets circulated much more among other factors which is why it wears out faster. 2 notches back from center should be fine.

Thanks
Thanks Paul, I'll leave it alone then. Also, what spur pinion combo do you run for your 4.0 motor and do you have to cut the top plate to avoid tweaking the car? Thanks!
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Old 04-12-2012, 01:15 PM   #1608
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Thanks Paul, I'll leave it alone then. Also, what spur pinion combo do you run for your 4.0 motor and do you have to cut the top plate to avoid tweaking the car? Thanks!

Cut the top plate?
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:20 PM   #1609
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Thanks Paul,

We went through several brands of compound last year until I tried the LG2 - night and day difference from the others we'd tried (and it doesn't stink up the whole toolbox)... great stuff! Picked up the LG1 in the off-season, been waiting all winter to try it.
Glad you had good luck with LG2. FYI, LG1 will stink up your tool box so sorry about that in advance, eeek LOL.

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Thanks Paul, I'll leave it alone then. Also, what spur pinion combo do you run for your 4.0 motor and do you have to cut the top plate to avoid tweaking the car? Thanks!
with my 4.0 i normally run 116/25. I havent had any issues with the motor running in to the top deck.
Thanks!
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:43 AM   #1610
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Hi Paul first time im going outdoor for open mod, The track is 90x70 low traction you think i can you use Thunder Power 4.0, What should be my start setting on my LRP, And also what tires are good for low traction.
Thanks
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:10 AM   #1611
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Hi Paul first time im going outdoor for open mod, The track is 90x70 low traction you think i can you use Thunder Power 4.0, What should be my start setting on my LRP, And also what tires are good for low traction.
Thanks
Hi. 4.0 will work fine but could definitely be overpowered if your not very smooth on the trigger. I would start at the lowest setting for power on your lrp. 3 or 4 for drag brake, and make initial brake the same as your drag brake.
For tires im really not sure, it has been a long time since i ran open tire. i would probably say sorex 24's or 28's. i used to run some kind of Hpi 24 on parking lots but were talking 12 years ago.
worst comes to worst with the power, you can simply turn down your throttle epa 10% and the car will be way smoother to drive.

Thanks

good luck!
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:07 AM   #1612
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Hey Paul, have you tried the Hagberg mod recently? any feedback on feel and when it would be useful to use it?
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Old 04-13-2012, 07:32 AM   #1613
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Hey Paul, I was reading up on your traction compound and have a question. It states use one for old tires and one for new. At what point is a tire a candidtate for the old tire service? Seems like as soon as you run it once it would be an old tire in need of a cleaning with the LG1
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Old 04-13-2012, 03:14 PM   #1614
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Hey Paul, have you tried the Hagberg mod recently? any feedback on feel and when it would be useful to use it?
Are you talking about the rear end being narrow?. If so no i have not tried it yet.

Thanks!

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Hey Paul, I was reading up on your traction compound and have a question. It states use one for old tires and one for new. At what point is a tire a candidtate for the old tire service? Seems like as soon as you run it once it would be an old tire in need of a cleaning with the LG1
Here is the instructions that comes with LG1-Lg2.

SUGGESTED ADDITIVE METHODS FOR (LG1, LG2)
LG1: aggressive penetrating additive. LG2: non aggressive additive which conditions rubber and foam.
RUBBER TIRE ASPHALT (NEW TIRES): LG1 is best suited for new tires due to its aggressive nature and ability to penetrate a fresh sealed tire’s surface. LG2 is also an option for new tires but LG2 does not have the penetrating ability of LG1. LG1 will air dry fairly well, so a good coating is suggested, Let dry and run.
RUBER TIRE ASPHALT (USED TIRES): LG2 is best suited for used tires. A used rubber tire’s pores are already open, which means that the penetrating nature of LG1 may not be necessary. LG2 has much higher oil content and will help used tires run more like new tires. A very small amount (rubbed in) is recommended for 10-20 min saucing, Air dry and run. A slightly thicker coating (rubbed in) is suggested for 20-40 min saucing, let air dry and run. For possible better results try cleaning the used tire with LG1 on a rag¸ then applying LG2 as suggested. Performance decreases when too much is used and it can allow the tire to get greasy. A few dabs on a tire, rubbed in will go a long way.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (GROOVED TRACK): If the track is grooved enough to where the dust is not a problem LG2 will have great results. Recommended to apply a very small amount and let air dry.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (DUSTY TRACK): LG1 is best suited for normal dusty dirt tracks, apply a nice coating and let air dry or wipe off.
Dirt OVAL, FOAM TIRE: LG2 is a great Foam tire conditioner, Apply well before running and rub in, Let dry or wipe well before running.
ASPHALT AND CARPET FOAM TIRE: Apply LG2 to the tires and rub in, Let dry or wipe and run. Air drying will take a long time when applied thick, thick application not necessary
OFF ROAD: In situations where additives are used LG1 is a great rubber softener. Apply and let dry, or wipe off, Repeat if necessary. If the track is really grooved up LG2 is an option, Apply a very small amount, let air dry before running.
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:27 PM   #1615
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Originally Posted by Paul L View Post
Are you talking about the rear end being narrow?. If so no i have not tried it yet.

Thanks!



Here is the instructions that comes with LG1-Lg2.

SUGGESTED ADDITIVE METHODS FOR (LG1, LG2)
LG1: aggressive penetrating additive. LG2: non aggressive additive which conditions rubber and foam.
RUBBER TIRE ASPHALT (NEW TIRES): LG1 is best suited for new tires due to its aggressive nature and ability to penetrate a fresh sealed tire’s surface. LG2 is also an option for new tires but LG2 does not have the penetrating ability of LG1. LG1 will air dry fairly well, so a good coating is suggested, Let dry and run.
RUBER TIRE ASPHALT (USED TIRES): LG2 is best suited for used tires. A used rubber tire’s pores are already open, which means that the penetrating nature of LG1 may not be necessary. LG2 has much higher oil content and will help used tires run more like new tires. A very small amount (rubbed in) is recommended for 10-20 min saucing, Air dry and run. A slightly thicker coating (rubbed in) is suggested for 20-40 min saucing, let air dry and run. For possible better results try cleaning the used tire with LG1 on a rag¸ then applying LG2 as suggested. Performance decreases when too much is used and it can allow the tire to get greasy. A few dabs on a tire, rubbed in will go a long way.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (GROOVED TRACK): If the track is grooved enough to where the dust is not a problem LG2 will have great results. Recommended to apply a very small amount and let air dry.
DIRT OVAL RUBBER TIRE (DUSTY TRACK): LG1 is best suited for normal dusty dirt tracks, apply a nice coating and let air dry or wipe off.
Dirt OVAL, FOAM TIRE: LG2 is a great Foam tire conditioner, Apply well before running and rub in, Let dry or wipe well before running.
ASPHALT AND CARPET FOAM TIRE: Apply LG2 to the tires and rub in, Let dry or wipe and run. Air drying will take a long time when applied thick, thick application not necessary
OFF ROAD: In situations where additives are used LG1 is a great rubber softener. Apply and let dry, or wipe off, Repeat if necessary. If the track is really grooved up LG2 is an option, Apply a very small amount, let air dry before running.
paul i know u pasted and copyied that. my little trying to fit your eletric body on my nitro car, he does want to run one of my bodies. u still got him brain washed,, c-ya soon
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:15 AM   #1616
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paul i know u pasted and copyied that. my little trying to fit your eletric body on my nitro car, he does want to run one of my bodies. u still got him brain washed,, c-ya soon
LOL, Hes got to be getting huge. too bad you couldn't make it to visit this year.
Hope all is well. tell everyone i said Hi.
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #1617
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Hey Paul, Chad again from Jeffs rc studio. Im running gtp 1/12 13.5 boosted and having temp problems. Im running a Tekin rs and have it setup boosted from another guys software who sets up most everyones electronics at our track in 12th scale. My rollout is between a 44-45 and my motor is coming out around 200, not the prefered 160. I dropped a few teeth on my pinion but no luck on cooler temps. I have a feeling i need to lower the timing on my esc because im running the same gears, tire size and motor as most but with a hotter temp motor after 8 min. Ceramic bearings in the rear axle, nothing broke making drag. 64 pitch. I wish i new what my timing is set at but i dont currently, i do know my boost is at 55. Any suggestions on where I should have my esc timing at, or how much to bring it down from where its at to achieve 40 degrees cooler motor temp. Thank You
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:34 PM   #1618
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Glad you had good luck with LG2. FYI, LG1 will stink up your tool box so sorry about that in advance, eeek LOL.
First use today... it actually does stink while being used, but no toolbox issues. Seals tightly, no leakage, no EVERYthing wintergreen scented like the old days.

(Goodbye Paragon, goodbye headaches)
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:43 PM   #1619
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Hey Paul, Chad again from Jeffs rc studio. Im running gtp 1/12 13.5 boosted and having temp problems. Im running a Tekin rs and have it setup boosted from another guys software who sets up most everyones electronics at our track in 12th scale. My rollout is between a 44-45 and my motor is coming out around 200, not the prefered 160. I dropped a few teeth on my pinion but no luck on cooler temps. I have a feeling i need to lower the timing on my esc because im running the same gears, tire size and motor as most but with a hotter temp motor after 8 min. Ceramic bearings in the rear axle, nothing broke making drag. 64 pitch. I wish i new what my timing is set at but i dont currently, i do know my boost is at 55. Any suggestions on where I should have my esc timing at, or how much to bring it down from where its at to achieve 40 degrees cooler motor temp. Thank You

Hey Chad-

I know I'm not Paul, but I figured I might offer some suggestions until Paul checks in. Of course, posting your whole Tekin/motor timing/rollout set up (probably get better response in the Tekin thread?) would help, but I never run 55 boost in a Tekin, and I only run 50 in 17.5 boosted. I would definitely try dropping the boost to 45 in boosted 13.5 12th. Its cool to see you're using the gravity tires!
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Old 04-22-2012, 06:03 PM   #1620
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I race on carpet during the summer and the car count is usually low so the traction is lower so I have to play with setup a lot. My question is I am planning to run this year at the IIC and would like to know which one of your setups I should try? Thanks
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