190mm Touring Body that I would buy
12-17-2009, 11:54 AM
#16
That was a show car that was built on a Fiero chassis. It was grossly out of proportion and rear engined!!
However, I'm with you in spirit for sure!!
My choices for cool RCGT bodies:
(I've already preordered my Axio Corolla)
12-17-2009, 04:29 PM
#19
no question....
12-17-2009, 04:52 PM
#20
The HPI bodies are very good. It's just Tamiya bodies are very very VERY good... The attention to detail, attention to the vacuum forming, is very noticeable once you go through several bodies of both manufacturers...
I've compared my HPI #7037 Accord body with the PIAA/JACCS Accord body that comes with the FF01 kit. No comparison. The Tamiya one was much more detailed, came with more nick-knacks (like side mirror attachements).
Not to take away HPI's bodys. They are great, and are usually more plentiful and cheaper, so it's used as a runner. But if you are an on-roader who don't crash at all, or looking to put a good body on a shelf queen, Tamiya bodies are the way to go...
I found the 1/10th speed racer...
The RTR is just a bit more expensive than a usual 190mm Tamiya body. Has anyone ever pried it off the RTR vehicle and stuck it on their 1/10th touring car? Was going to google the wheel base and width to see if it'll fit on a TA05...
12-17-2009, 04:59 PM
#22
+1. I've had a couple of HPI bodies and a couple of Tamiya bodies. There's no comparison there.
The HPI bodies are very good. It's just Tamiya bodies are very very VERY good... The attention to detail, attention to the vacuum forming, is very noticeable once you go through several bodies of both manufacturers...
I've compared my HPI #7037 Accord body with the PIAA/JACCS Accord body that comes with the FF01 kit. No comparison. The Tamiya one was much more detailed, came with more nick-knacks (like side mirror attachements).
Not to take away HPI's bodys. They are great, and are usually more plentiful and cheaper, so it's used as a runner. But if you are an on-roader who don't crash at all, or looking to put a good body on a shelf queen, Tamiya bodies are the way to go...
I found the 1/10th speed racer...
The RTR is just a bit more expensive than a usual 190mm Tamiya body. Has anyone ever pried it off the RTR vehicle and stuck it on their 1/10th touring car? Was going to google the wheel base and width to see if it'll fit on a TA05...
The HPI bodies are very good. It's just Tamiya bodies are very very VERY good... The attention to detail, attention to the vacuum forming, is very noticeable once you go through several bodies of both manufacturers...
I've compared my HPI #7037 Accord body with the PIAA/JACCS Accord body that comes with the FF01 kit. No comparison. The Tamiya one was much more detailed, came with more nick-knacks (like side mirror attachements).
Not to take away HPI's bodys. They are great, and are usually more plentiful and cheaper, so it's used as a runner. But if you are an on-roader who don't crash at all, or looking to put a good body on a shelf queen, Tamiya bodies are the way to go...
I found the 1/10th speed racer...
The RTR is just a bit more expensive than a usual 190mm Tamiya body. Has anyone ever pried it off the RTR vehicle and stuck it on their 1/10th touring car? Was going to google the wheel base and width to see if it'll fit on a TA05...
Is that a Nikko?
12-17-2009, 05:06 PM
#23
I think so, I'm not sure. They were selling these on Amazon for about $37 from a distributor "Jada Toys."
Not sure if it's a Nikko or just a rebadge.
There was a thread on it on TRU RC or whatever about a guy doing this Frankensteining.
This thing even comes with lights!
That guy on TRU RC got it right for his application though, he was mounting it on a drifter, so he really shouldn't be crashing and aerodynamics doesn't come into as much play as if you were barreling down the straight with your TC...
But it's neat... Would be cool to have Spridle and ChimChim in the back popping out of the trunk once in a while to takes a looksie while drifting! One can only imagine!
Not sure if it's a Nikko or just a rebadge.
There was a thread on it on TRU RC or whatever about a guy doing this Frankensteining.
This thing even comes with lights!
That guy on TRU RC got it right for his application though, he was mounting it on a drifter, so he really shouldn't be crashing and aerodynamics doesn't come into as much play as if you were barreling down the straight with your TC...
But it's neat... Would be cool to have Spridle and ChimChim in the back popping out of the trunk once in a while to takes a looksie while drifting! One can only imagine!
12-17-2009, 11:07 PM
#25
It is made by Tamiya and will be available next Jan.
In my experience the HPI bodies are very brittle and shatter like glass which defeats the whole purpose of having them made out of lexan. I tried racing two of them and one got completely broken in the first crash (and I mean broken into little shards) whilst the other lasted a few races but lost quite a few bits all over the track and I had to retire it.
Tamiya's bodies on the other hand can take abuse almost on par with Protoform. I raced one for an entire season (every week for a year) and it is still useable having lost nothing. has a few cracks and so on, but it's still holding on.
In my experience the HPI bodies are very brittle and shatter like glass which defeats the whole purpose of having them made out of lexan. I tried racing two of them and one got completely broken in the first crash (and I mean broken into little shards) whilst the other lasted a few races but lost quite a few bits all over the track and I had to retire it.
Tamiya's bodies on the other hand can take abuse almost on par with Protoform. I raced one for an entire season (every week for a year) and it is still useable having lost nothing. has a few cracks and so on, but it's still holding on.
12-17-2009, 11:46 PM
#26
It is made by Tamiya and will be available next Jan.
In my experience the HPI bodies are very brittle and shatter like glass which defeats the whole purpose of having them made out of lexan. I tried racing two of them and one got completely broken in the first crash (and I mean broken into little shards) whilst the other lasted a few races but lost quite a few bits all over the track and I had to retire it.
Tamiya's bodies on the other hand can take abuse almost on par with Protoform. I raced one for an entire season (every week for a year) and it is still useable having lost nothing. has a few cracks and so on, but it's still holding on.
In my experience the HPI bodies are very brittle and shatter like glass which defeats the whole purpose of having them made out of lexan. I tried racing two of them and one got completely broken in the first crash (and I mean broken into little shards) whilst the other lasted a few races but lost quite a few bits all over the track and I had to retire it.
Tamiya's bodies on the other hand can take abuse almost on par with Protoform. I raced one for an entire season (every week for a year) and it is still useable having lost nothing. has a few cracks and so on, but it's still holding on.
My next GT body will be from Tamiya. They're always sooooooo beautiful... Been eyeing the R34 Skyline and the NSX bodies. May have to wait for that BMW body. That thing looks trick!!!
12-18-2009, 12:15 AM
#27
I think part of the problem is the type of Polycarbonate HPI chose to use and the other problem is, they seem a bit thinner. I haven't busted out my Calipers, but I'm guessing there's probably a 5 to 10 mil difference in average thickness when compared to the thicker Tamiyas...
My next GT body will be from Tamiya. They're always sooooooo beautiful... Been eyeing the R34 Skyline and the NSX bodies. May have to wait for that BMW body. That thing looks trick!!!
My next GT body will be from Tamiya. They're always sooooooo beautiful... Been eyeing the R34 Skyline and the NSX bodies. May have to wait for that BMW body. That thing looks trick!!!
Not necessarily the thickness as the material, in my opinion. The tamiya bodies are not that thick (actually the HPI shell I shattered completely was thicker than normal Tamiyas). Why did HPI use a brittle material is beyond me.
12-18-2009, 03:50 AM
#29
You can buy 2 HPI shells for what you pay for one Tamiya.. You know what they say, you pay for what you get I guess it applies here too.
I don't care I beat the hell out of my bodies, nothing a little drywall tape and shoe goo cant fix tho
HPI shells are made for the track, Tamiya shells are made for the concourse.
I don't care I beat the hell out of my bodies, nothing a little drywall tape and shoe goo cant fix tho
HPI shells are made for the track, Tamiya shells are made for the concourse.
12-18-2009, 04:00 AM
#30
You can buy 2 HPI shells for what you pay for one Tamiya.. You know what they say, you pay for what you get I guess it applies here too.
I don't care I beat the hell out of my bodies, nothing a little drywall tape and shoe goo cant fix tho HPI shells are made for the track, Tamiya shells are made for the concourse.
I don't care I beat the hell out of my bodies, nothing a little drywall tape and shoe goo cant fix tho
HPI shells are made for the track, Tamiya shells are made for the concourse.