just want to hear your opinion and suggestion for improvements:
i want to buy:
TA05v.2
Hobbywing Ezrun BL set 5.5
Team Orion Rocket Lipo 4000 25C
3racing alum shocks
3racing alum mixing arm
Low friction drive belt
TOBEE turn buckle blue
Yeah racing washer blue
Thanks
Moole
I think the TOBEE turnbuckles are alu... depending on where you want to put them I would suggest rather titanium ( front) and leave the alu for the rear.
You can (or at least could) get blue titanium - I think thats first prize.
Shocks , if for racing and you have a few spare $$ , get TRF shocks.
Like someone said above , depends if its for racing or bashing
I have a TA05IFS with lots up upgrades , some just for the blue bling factor
If for racing you may consider changing spur from 70T to 105T - this will give you wider choice of gearing. If you do that route , you will need a new centre plate which covers the spur gear ( K10 on original kit). The kit covers the spur , and with a bigger spur you need an open one. You can get either blue alu or graphite.
Also , I got the titanium screw kit , which reduces weight (I think its only 20g ) , but its stronger (and hex )
Get a good set of tools - it will last and not strip , plus measuring/setup tools if racing
For blue bling - yes to front/rear bulkheads (very visible) , no to any alum pieces in the front ( turnbuckles , steeing blocks etc ) , I found it bends / breaks too easily when you hit something ....and you WILL hit something
Should also mention , if racing you will probably need some suspension mounts to change toe in .....if not racing its just more expensive blue on your car
Like someone said above , depends if its for racing or bashing
I have a TA05IFS with lots up upgrades , some just for the blue bling factor
If for racing you may consider changing spur from 70T to 105T - this will give you wider choice of gearing. If you do that route , you will need a new centre plate which covers the spur gear ( K10 on original kit). The kit covers the spur , and with a bigger spur you need an open one. You can get either blue alu or graphite.
Also , I got the titanium screw kit , which reduces weight (I think its only 20g ) , but its stronger (and hex )
Get a good set of tools - it will last and not strip , plus measuring/setup tools if racing
For blue bling - yes to front/rear bulkheads (very visible) , no to any alum pieces in the front ( turnbuckles , steeing blocks etc ) , I found it bends / breaks too easily when you hit something ....and you WILL hit something
what spurgear/pinion do i need if i want to race on the track?
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportpak
What are your intentions with the car? Race, bash, drift, ect??
Save the money on belts and get the TRF shocks and titanium turn buckles.
Make sure you get that 5.5 geared correctly.
I had a TA05 for a while. It was little portly, but was pretty dialed for what it was on rubber/carpet. Have fun man.
Ben
for sure i want to race on the track
whats the right gear for the 5.5?
__________________
Traxxas Slash - Mamba Max 5700
Tamiya F103 RM - Yeah Racing Brushless
what spurgear/pinion do i need if i want to race on the track?
for sure i want to race on the track
whats the right gear for the 5.5?
Maybe someone else can give more specific input, but the gearing depends a lot on the track. I run a TA05IFS with internal gearing 2,25 (v2 is 2,055) , and with a 105 spur I go from 32 on a tight indoor carpet track to 39/40 on a larger outdoor track with more flowing corners. That is with a 23T brushed motor.
Lower FDR ( final drive ratio) gives you higher top speed with lower acceleration
Higher FDR gives you lower top speed with better acceleration
FDR = spur / pinion x Int Ratio
My advice : Get the car , go to your first race , remember that to finish first you first have to finish , and take it from there.... ...and have fun !!
New on touring car
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