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Old 03-26-2011, 07:26 AM   #1426
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i was wondering the same thing. my MMP ESC is always blinking yellow or orange. the battery is fully charged. so it just means i dont have CHEAT Mode turned on? right now i have the ESC set to stock settings
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:03 AM   #1427
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The yellow light is the new roar requirement for zero timing mode. If you have no cheat mode then it will blink when in neutral. you didn't do anything wrong.
OK, well that is the worst case because it would just flat out stop working for maybe 5-10 seconds and then just start again? I thought it was because the sync wasnt correct... so what could cause the sudden stopping? thanks again!
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:08 AM   #1428
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has anyone successfully got the torque limiting function to work? I'm going to play around with it today. I could not get my car to go into the test mode. This would be a big advantage on loose,loamy tracks.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:06 AM   #1429
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OK, well that is the worst case because it would just flat out stop working for maybe 5-10 seconds and then just start again? I thought it was because the sync wasnt correct... so what could cause the sudden stopping? thanks again!
When you say it stopped working for 5-10 sec was this while you were running it? Just to make sure that it has the correct settings. After updating the firmware then redo the radio calibration. and see if it still happens.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:13 AM   #1430
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has anyone successfully got the torque limiting function to work? I'm going to play around with it today. I could not get my car to go into the test mode. This would be a big advantage on loose,loamy tracks.
I have tried to help before. What part of the steps are you missing. When you check the box to send it the test to the controller are you clicking on the "update" on the bottom right. When you do this does the link software tell you the update is complete? If it does you should be good to do the test.

I have 4 of these and they all work.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:17 AM   #1431
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When you say it stopped working for 5-10 sec was this while you were running it? Just to make sure that it has the correct settings. After updating the firmware then redo the radio calibration. and see if it still happens.
Where do I find the calibration instructions? I didn't know that I needed to calibrate it after installation
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:37 AM   #1432
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Where do I find the calibration instructions? I didn't know that I needed to calibrate it after installation
1.Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC’s switch ON. Keep holding full throttle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the motor (all tones are played by the ESC vibrating the motor).
2.After a second or two, the green LED on the ESC will blink rapidly and the motor will “ring” 4 times rapidly in a row (accepting the full throttle endpoint). After the green LED flashes and tones, the ESC will blink the red LED. At this point the full throttle endpoint has been set within the ESC and now it’s looking for the full brake endpoint (red LED blinking).
3. Move the throttle trigger to the full brake position and hold full brake. After a few seconds, the ESC will flash the red LED and ring 4 times rapidly (accepting full brake endpoint).
4.After accepting the full brake endpoint the ESC will then blink the yellow LED. Now relax the trigger to the neutral position. The ESC will now ring 4 times and flash the yellow LED rapidly to accept the neutral position

After accepting the neutral position, the ESC will ring twice and flash ALL the LEDs. This is the arming tone and LED indication that the ESC IS NOW ARMED and the car will respond to throttle inputs from your transmitter.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:31 PM   #1433
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When you say it stopped working for 5-10 sec was this while you were running it? Just to make sure that it has the correct settings. After updating the firmware then redo the radio calibration. and see if it still happens.
Well to be honest I didnt re-do the calibration of the radio after downloading the new software... I did when I went back to old software though.. thanks again for the help... I knew it was user error, I was just following the trouble shooting in the instructions that say's yellow blinking is nuetral not set correct.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:41 PM   #1434
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1.Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC’s switch ON. Keep holding full throttle on the transmitter. If all your connections are correct, you will hear one multi-toned initialization “ring” from the motor (all tones are played by the ESC vibrating the motor).........
Awesome thanks. This motor and esc was on a different truck before I got it so I'm sure it's not calibrated right. Could this be the reason the truck is slower than I think it should be??
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:43 PM   #1435
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Awesome thanks. This motor and esc was on a different truck before I got it so I'm sure it's not calibrated right. Could this be the reason the truck is slower than I think it should be??
It could be. Also I would check as see if you are running in sensored only mode or in smart sense. With mod motors it makes very little difference but with stock motors sensored only mode seems to have a lot more rip.
Also if you go to full throttle on the radio and the green light is not lit then the ESC is not seeing full throttle and the radio calibration will solve this.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:49 PM   #1436
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Is there Disadvantage to using sensored only mode vs smart sense mode?
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:05 PM   #1437
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Is there Disadvantage to using sensored only mode vs smart sense mode?
For racing I pretty much used sensored only mode. With stock motors and the limited torque and speed they have you can get more of both out of a stock motor in sensored only mode. It is less effecient, but once again stock motors need all the help they can get. As both modes start with the sensor board they have pretty smooth takes offs. Sensored only mode also allows you to run dynamic timing also known in the software as "cheat" mode. This allows you in the software of the speed control to set an RPM range that will advance the timing of the motor and give you more RPM. It is great if you want to get more speed out of stock motor. However most tracks that I have been to lately are racing stock with zero speed control timing.
The recommendation is to run sensored only in 10.5 and below.
Nothing wrong with running sensored only mode in lower turn motors but it is less necessary.
I would try it one way and then switch to the other mode and see which one you like the feel of more.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:37 PM   #1438
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I calibrated the radio with the esc and it's fast. Then I switched it from smart sense to sensored and it does wing scraping wheelies. Now it's awesome lol. I also turned the BEC up to 7v cuz I have a HV servo and the steering is a lot faster
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Old 03-27-2011, 12:13 PM   #1439
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just to update everyone... the software problem I thought I had was not a problem and user error like I thought. The cut off problem was a loose deans connector that just wore out and lost its tightness... thanks for the help with it all...
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:58 PM   #1440
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I am just curious if there is anyway to make the MMP compatible with the Data logger software? This software would be very useful to do some fine tuning in dirt oval racing.
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