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Old 02-07-2011, 05:53 PM   #1381
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
How much did you pull out of the bottom end? Do you have a pic of what the graph looks like? I'm excited to try this out.
I thought you where talking about "torque control" it will be displayed under the power tab in the castle link software. The throttle curve I just left linear as that is how I like the throttle to feel. Moving the curve around really doesn't change the amount of power to the wheels it just slow the throttle response or speeds it up depending on if the curve is convex or concave. I only use this if I want to give my onroad car a little more pop with intial throttle input.

For 1/10 scale sc racing torque control works great and is very consistent. It also limits the total amount of torque to the wheel regardless of RPM. So even if you have a heavy finger, the wheels will still not spin because the controller is keeping the torque value in check. If you want to know how to set this up I can explain it.
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:04 PM   #1382
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If you don't mind explaining it, I'd love to learn. I have a race I will try this out on in two weeks and this will be a BIG HUGE advantage especially since traction is low.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:01 AM   #1383
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If you don't mind explaining it, I'd love to learn. I have a race I will try this out on in two weeks and this will be a BIG HUGE advantage especially since traction is low.
Ok here is how you do the test for the motor. You will need to do this before you can use traction control.

1. Download and update to the latest version of the castle link software, then update to the latest firmware for the MMP currently this is 3.29 software and 1.30 firmware.

2. Once you are all updated you will have the power tab in the castle link software. There is a check box next to torque control that says motor test. Check this box, it will open a window that explains exactly what I am here. Click ok and then click apply. This sends a program to your speed control to collect data from the motor.

3. Disconnect the controller from the castle link. and plug it back into your receiver.

4. Remove the pinion from you motor.
5. Power up you system. (Turn radio on , plug battery in and turn on the controller)
6. Once the controller is powered up then Hold full throttle. This is the test part and the motor will spin for about 3-5 sec and then stop on its own. You will not need to let go of the throttle until the motor stops.
7.After the motor stops power everything down.
8.Reconnect the ESC to the castle link and open the software.
9. You will now be able to adjust the torque control values, 10 is the least amount of torque control. I always start with 10 if this is not enough then move down 1 at a time.

The last time I ran torque control was on a really loose track and I ended up at 7.5.

Let me know how it works.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:21 PM   #1384
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Well I did everything you say but when I power up to full throttle it never does its test. I hold it for way more than 3-5 seconds. I can't figure out why it wont do the test
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Old 02-10-2011, 07:48 PM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Well I did everything you say but when I power up to full throttle it never does its test. I hold it for way more than 3-5 seconds. I can't figure out why it wont do the test
Make sure after you hit the check box to activate torque control and you get the big pop up screen and hit ok that you hit the update button in the bottom right hand corner of the screen to update the controller (just like if you updated a setting on the controller). Then disconnect the controller and run the test. Give us a call if you're still having problems...have everything with you if possible. 913-390-6939 and hit 1 for tech.
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Old 02-11-2011, 08:55 AM   #1386
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Well I did everything you say but when I power up to full throttle it never does its test. I hold it for way more than 3-5 seconds. I can't figure out why it wont do the test
Yes as Joe says you need to update after selecting the check box. I said apply. But I guess the software does say update.
Also a few things to note about the MMP and its arming time. Do not touch the controller (radio) until the MMP has gone through its arming "chime". And before you can do the test you must calibrate the MMP to the radio. These are things that I take for granted and was not specific about. Either will make the test fail in my experience.

The big one is not sending the test to the controller through the update button though.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:36 AM   #1387
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Question (because I still do not understand it)
I drive onroad 13,5 engine on technical track with a straight of 44 meters (144 feet).
First I had a rev setting of 2.800 / 12.000, but is a 5.000 / 17.000 better for top speed?
Why is there a min and max rev?

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Old 02-20-2011, 04:44 PM   #1388
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The minimum RPM is where timing starts to advance. The timing increases as the RPM increases until the maximum RPM setting.

As far as what to set it to, depends on your FDR, motor, track and so forth.

I run 17.5 myself on a small track, so don't have any good guesses for you.

Try some different settings (and only those settings), see what gets the better results.
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Old 02-23-2011, 02:14 PM   #1389
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Can anyone help me set up my esc to be competitive?

1/12 AE 12R5
GM 10.5t Stock Pro
pinion 36 - 38
spur 88
rear wheels trued to 45mm

currently 40' timing cheat
acceleration medium
punch = disabled
unsure on where to set the rpm range so gone for 6500-11500. I hear you guys talking rollout and FDR but have no idea lol.....

im not after a race winner but atleast when im driving OK i would to be able to keep good speed so i dont have to keep pulling over to let the guys go :-)

track changes every 3 visits (6 weeks) Maritime raceway. straight is approx 100ft usually. Carpet
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:27 PM   #1390
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Default Motor wire colors on MMP?

Hello,

I purchased a used MMP and I'm attempting to install in my SP2, but I do not have an owners manual. I looked online and downloaded one, but it just says there is no polarity on the motor wires??

I know the brushless motors have an A,B, & C pole to connect to the esc. Is there not a similar demarkation for the Red, black, and white wire on the MMP?

Thanks,

John
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:48 AM   #1391
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Hello,

I purchased a used MMP and I'm attempting to install in my SP2, but I do not have an owners manual. I looked online and downloaded one, but it just says there is no polarity on the motor wires??

I know the brushless motors have an A,B, & C pole to connect to the esc. Is there not a similar demarkation for the Red, black, and white wire on the MMP?

Thanks,

John
RED=A
WHITE =B
BLACK=C
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:09 AM   #1392
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What ever happened to the smaller version of this speedo that was promised a long time ago ??
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Old 02-28-2011, 07:14 AM   #1393
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I had the latest update on my MMP 1cell and the 1.26 seem to be faster for some reason is that the case or is there something I'm missing.
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Old 02-28-2011, 08:09 AM   #1394
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I had the latest update on my MMP 1cell and the 1.26 seem to be faster for some reason is that the case or is there something I'm missing.
If 1.26 is faster for you I would just continue to run that. 1.30 only add a couple of things that if you are running onroad you really don't need. The only catch would be if you want to run in the no timing "blinky" class then the neutral LED doesn't blink with zero timing. I use this firmware in my 1/8 scale. But version 1.3 in everything else. I hand't really notice a speed difference though.
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Old 03-01-2011, 06:32 PM   #1395
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Hey I don't know what happened I'm running a mmp and novak 5.5 550 in my losi ten scte it was great for 3 packs then it shit off and won't turn on with the sensor wire plugged in ??? I'm confused should I run it with no wire ??
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