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Old 01-21-2011, 10:45 AM   #1366
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I guess its how you look at it. In that case I guess Tekin is one step back because their unit can't do sensorless or 6s lipo without buying another speedo. Not every speedo will have every software upgrade people want. It is almost impossible to do that.
Tekin is two steps back but this is another discussion
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:11 PM   #1367
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In a rush to make my qualifier last night, I went ahead and plugged my MMP in backwards.

Of course this caused a bit of a smell and quite a bit of heat. Neither are good for an ESC. One of the bullet connectors unsoldered its self almost immediately so the actual time the esc was plugged in wrong was only seconds.

The circuit board looks good, I cant see what would have fried. All of the components look the way they did when I first got the MMP.

Will this speedo be worth sending in to see if it is repairable?

When powered up the LED blinks like normal, but the motor wont go, it also was beginning to get warm so something is shorted out somewhere.
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:07 PM   #1368
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In a rush to make my qualifier last night, I went ahead and plugged my MMP in backwards.

Of course this caused a bit of a smell and quite a bit of heat. Neither are good for an ESC. One of the bullet connectors unsoldered its self almost immediately so the actual time the esc was plugged in wrong was only seconds.

The circuit board looks good, I cant see what would have fried. All of the components look the way they did when I first got the MMP.

Will this speedo be worth sending in to see if it is repairable?

When powered up the LED blinks like normal, but the motor wont go, it also was beginning to get warm so something is shorted out somewhere.
I would just call them and ask how much to fix. You might be better off just picking up a new one. Not sure how much the charge for user error. I know if it is a warranty repair most of the time they will just send out a new one with a prepaid return envelope for the old one.
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Old 01-22-2011, 04:39 PM   #1369
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I would just call them and ask how much to fix. You might be better off just picking up a new one. Not sure how much the charge for user error. I know if it is a warranty repair most of the time they will just send out a new one with a prepaid return envelope for the old one.
I defiantly know this isn't warranty.

Probably just pick up a new one.
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Old 01-22-2011, 07:46 PM   #1370
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I'm looking forward to using the 'cheat' function tomm at the races.
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:14 AM   #1371
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Ran my Mamba this weekend in 17.5 spec. I ran it in cheat mode with no timing. It did okay. I am still getting use to T/C. Some of those guys are flying. I know I can get more out of it with gearing.

Someone told me there was special software That was just for spec. Is that software better? Any help???? thanks

Chris
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:10 PM   #1372
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Ran my Mamba this weekend in 17.5 spec. I ran it in cheat mode with no timing. It did okay. I am still getting use to T/C. Some of those guys are flying. I know I can get more out of it with gearing.

Someone told me there was special software That was just for spec. Is that software better? Any help???? thanks

Chris
No special software, just the blinking yellow led when the controller has zero timing. I would however update to the latest version of the firmware 1.30. It has been rock solid for me.

Gearing wise for 17.5 spec is right around 4 FDR. I have seen some as low as 3.2 but that is pretty extreme. I have found that running 4.6 - 4.8 seems to be the sweet spot with most of the motors that I have.
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:20 PM   #1373
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Thanks... Most at our track run between 4.0-3.8. I am at 4.0 with temps about 120 without a fan. I think i can push it a little more and put a fan on it. Right know I am going to focus on driving, then speed it up. I was happy with the speed in my main, but the A main guys were quite a bit faster.
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Old 01-24-2011, 03:01 PM   #1374
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I defiantly know this isn't warranty.

Probably just pick up a new one.

Castle has a replacement option for things not covered under warranty. Check out:

http://www.castlecreations.com/suppo...te_repair.html

I don't see the MMP, but the Mamba Max replacement cost of $50 seems very reasonable. I would guess the the MMP is close to that.
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Old 01-29-2011, 11:50 AM   #1375
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Old 02-07-2011, 03:34 PM   #1376
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I'm new to the whole castle link thing and I ave a newbie question?,

Is it an advantage to raise the bec voltage from the factory setting of 5v, I'm running this in a hyper 10sc, with a velineon motor,airtronics receiver and a hitec 7945 servo...

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:08 PM   #1377
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Has anyone played with the power curve on the Castlelink software? I'm thinking of keep my slipper on the tight side and just backing the power down so I have traction in the loamy surfaces I run.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:33 PM   #1378
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Has anyone played with the power curve on the Castlelink software? I'm thinking of keep my slipper on the tight side and just backing the power down so I have traction in the loamy surfaces I run.
If you are talking about torque control it works great. I have used it a lot in the summer on slippery tracks with great success. It allows you to gear what you need for speed while limiting the torque of the motor throughout the RPM range. Much more consistent too than a slipper and works whether or not you are hard or soft with your finger out of the corners.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:36 PM   #1379
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Originally Posted by Jpm1 View Post
I'm new to the whole castle link thing and I ave a newbie question?,

Is it an advantage to raise the bec voltage from the factory setting of 5v, I'm running this in a hyper 10sc, with a velineon motor,airtronics receiver and a hitec 7945 servo...

Thanks in advance
It really depends. I always bump the voltage up to 6V as that is all my servo's are rated for. It generally make the servo a little faster. But it may also cause a black out to the receiver if you are using a lower turn motor. I have never had this issue but others have and it seems that it really affect spectrum receivers more than other radio brands. I would set it to what ever your servo is rated at. If you experience radio glitches then I would put it back to 5V.
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Old 02-07-2011, 04:48 PM   #1380
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
If you are talking about torque control it works great. I have used it a lot in the summer on slippery tracks with great success. It allows you to gear what you need for speed while limiting the torque of the motor throughout the RPM range. Much more consistent too than a slipper and works whether or not you are hard or soft with your finger out of the corners.
How much did you pull out of the bottom end? Do you have a pic of what the graph looks like? I'm excited to try this out.
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