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Old 03-06-2010, 07:30 PM   #736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
I already did. See post #726

@ Davin....Forgot one thing. If you have the Castle Link plug in and make sure you have the latest software on the controller (v1.25). If you don't show that version available download the latest version of software from our website, and then download the software to the ESC. After you update the ESC software make sure you re-calibrate the ESC to your radio. Let me know what you find out after trying this and the things from post #726.
Right on, thanks, joe. Sorry I missed the post.
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Old 03-06-2010, 11:18 PM   #737
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I have a MMP F/S Mamba Max Pro F/S
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:49 AM   #738
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does anyone have a Super fast profile for the mamba max pro (1 cell)? I am running 1/12 scale. ... trying to keep up with the Tekins.
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:51 AM   #739
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Does anyone have a good idea on lengthening the motor wires?.. i cut them slightly shorter to accomodate the motor i was using, where they solder on the top of a motor, now im using a SP v3 motor, the cables are too short to get around the back of the motor.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:17 AM   #740
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new s/w version 3.251 is now out on the castle website gents.
features

3.251 Beta 02/17/10 9.1MB •Added Mamba Max Pro 1 Cell controller to Field Link programmer
•Bug Fix - HPI Blur controllers incorrectly showed that a new version of software was available
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:25 AM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Ford View Post
If you have any timing in the motor itself bring it to neutral and test it. If already at neutral try dropping to 30 degrees timing in the ESC and test to see if there is any difference. Next (as someone else suggested), drop your activation range down to something in the 3000-7000 range so you know you're hitting full timing with your battery voltage and motor kv under the load (albeit it not much).
Hi there,

I kinda ran into somthing the same yesterday testing the speedo.
My problem started after I changed the "throttle dead band" setting.
At 95% of throttle no problem. from 95 - 98% lots of stuttering. from 98 - 100% no power at all. releasing from full-throttle made the power jump from 0 to 97% then back down easy.
I played a bit with throttle endpoint, whilst testing this.

I went back to the default dead band setting, and problem was solved.

Lowering motor (endbell) timing had no effect, Also lowering to 30% CHEAT timing had no effect. I callibrated my transmitter several times between tests.

Make sure the "Throttle dead band" it is on the default setting ( with the *). If you're still having trouble, you might try and go a bit higher on throttle dead band. This could be different based on radio equipment.

Hopes this is of any help.
@ Joe Ford. Please let us know you're thoughts.

Regards,
RA
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:05 AM   #742
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Originally Posted by MoonTrap View Post
Does anyone have a good idea on lengthening the motor wires?.. i cut them slightly shorter to accomodate the motor i was using, where they solder on the top of a motor, now im using a SP v3 motor, the cables are too short to get around the back of the motor.
I've re-wired two MMPs now, its quite possible, just need a properly powerful iron and a bit of patience... I use an 80w Weller iron with a big tip, its what I used for doing cells back in the day
A 35w'er won't cut it, as it simply won't get the joints hot enough to get the old wire out.

Do need to take it out the case to do so, just take your time and it should be fine. I'll post some pics up later of the two I've done so far.

Regards
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:19 PM   #743
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I did re-wired mine but just be carefull not the have the soldering iron too long.... I think castle use a lead free solder co'z the melting point is way higher than any solder I use. They are pain is the A$$ to remove.

I will have mine re-wire again as soon I get my new ride Schumacher MI4LP.... And I will use a bullet connector directly solder to the ESC Tabs so I don't to take the case apart if I have to change my wiring...
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:00 PM   #744
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As Joachim states later, your rpm ramps seem pretty high... I doubt your getting max timing at all on the straights, certainly with the 13.5!

The numbers you've given would roughly mean your end of the ramp is around 30mph... To put it another way, I ran a 10.5 this weekend, and was only just getting above that by the end of the straight!
The other interesting thing I discovered this weekend, was that minimum corner speed was in the 6mph range...
(This was all done by some on board datalogging equipment, not massively accurate, but good enough to give an idea of what's going on).

In my 12th, with a 10.5 at about 43mmpr, I've got it set at 6000rpm (9.5mph)- 10000rpm (16mph) and could happily hang with the ulimited modified (5.5's, 6.5's)boys this past weekend... In fact on the in-field I was quicker as I could put the power down better. I've purposely set the speedo to a slightly higher start ramp speed than the tc, as the corner speed tends to be higher anyway.



Hey Ben, certainly seems like your getting to grips with it! I know what you mean about the FDR, I'm still thinking that in the tc I'm overgeared, as still running 6.35fdr with a 10.5 (coming from the other direction to you ) , and as a result the rpm ramps are off... more to play with next weekend

I would suggest that maybe the bottom ramp is a little too low, as you maybe already in the ramp zone coming off the turns, rather than letting the motor use its most torque down low. Upper ramp will govern when the maximum timing kicks in, so this is probably what you altered more to get it suited to the track, at a guess?



5K = about 5mph on 6.3fdr...
8K = 10ish
See my above comment about min corner speeds on a 10.5, if your geared higher with a 13.5, then the speeds vs rpm will also be higher (I.e, 5K = 7.5mph @ 5.0 FDR). I've got a summary table for the speed at a given rpm and FDR, think it should be on the back of the speed chart excel sheet I posted earlier.

HiH
Ed
Ed,

You were absolutly right... Drove the Speedo at the ETS Series in Poland (could not get my car feel as right as it should be, ended up 23th) But the speedo was awesom. Lots of power getting out the corner. But missed a "second gear" like the Tekin's and LRP's... then again it was not slower then any other speedo or something!

And my start RPM at the Poland track was 4000 RPM - to 8600 RPM (if i'm correct). Tryed earlyer and later, but this felt the best! geraing was at 5.35 with a 13,5T Speed Passion motor...

Best Regards

Robert
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:11 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carbonator View Post
Hi there,

I kinda ran into somthing the same yesterday testing the speedo.
My problem started after I changed the "throttle dead band" setting.
At 95% of throttle no problem. from 95 - 98% lots of stuttering. from 98 - 100% no power at all. releasing from full-throttle made the power jump from 0 to 97% then back down easy.
I played a bit with throttle endpoint, whilst testing this.

I went back to the default dead band setting, and problem was solved.

Lowering motor (endbell) timing had no effect, Also lowering to 30% CHEAT timing had no effect. I callibrated my transmitter several times between tests.

Make sure the "Throttle dead band" it is on the default setting ( with the *). If you're still having trouble, you might try and go a bit higher on throttle dead band. This could be different based on radio equipment.

Hopes this is of any help.
@ Joe Ford. Please let us know you're thoughts.

Regards,
RA
Looks at your throttle endpoints on the Castle Link screen (lower right hand screen). You want to set the endpoint for brake to be as close to 1.000ms as possible, full throttle for as close to 2.000ms as possible, and then adjust your trim to get neutral as close to 1.500ms as possible. Adjust the radio endpoints, calibrate, plug in and check...adjust again until you get to these points...could take 5+ minutes. Then bring your dead band in and calibrate to the radio. I personally like a hair trigger. You can literally blow on my trigger and the car moves...I set all mine up this way. ^^^

PS-Make sure you have the latest software on the computer (v3.251) and the latest software on the ESC (v1.25). Only other thing I can think of is try another receiver. Never heard of endpoints causing this issue for someone...adjusted TONS of guys endpoints at the Snowbirds....
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:25 PM   #746
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Could someone gives me the Cheat mode range for a big track (65m straight) for mod. 4T and stock 17.5T motors please? FDR for mod is about 7.5 and about 4.0 for stock with 0 timing on both motors.Thanks
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Old 03-09-2010, 07:12 AM   #747
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Use Smart Sence Mode on modified motor never use cheat mode you will burn up your motor..

17.5 or 13.5 Brushless motor:

Cheat Mode
40-50 Degree Timing (Depends On what motor you are running)
RPM Range 4500-9000 ( Play with the RPM around in that range untill you get the sweet spot)

Most Brushless Motor have at least stock 30 degree Timing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Born2Run View Post
Could someone gives me the Cheat mode range for a big track (65m straight) for mod. 4T and stock 17.5T motors please? FDR for mod is about 7.5 and about 4.0 for stock with 0 timing on both motors.Thanks
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:02 AM   #748
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Thanks Jochim_18.
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Old 03-10-2010, 03:31 AM   #749
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I know its the on-road thread, but a lot of you racers have the MMP down.

Any good starting MMP set-ups for Short Course Truck 17.5? I'm running a Novak Ballistic and the track is pretty big.

Joe Ford - Will the new MMPs have solder posts to easily change power wires?

Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2010, 06:37 AM   #750
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Is anyone removing the fans on there speedo's?, i run 13.5 and even on really hot days, i dont notice the fan on after a race, unless it comes on during?, just wondered if the fan is needed for spec classes like 10.5 and up?, would make mounting a bit easier with the fan off
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