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Old 08-30-2012, 07:54 AM   #1501
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
Probably, the problem is FDR...
I Use 10.5T LRP Stock Spec with lowest timing
and this is my setting
Start power: Low(for Asphalt, Medium)
Punch: disabled
Brag Brake: disabled
CHEAT mode: On
Timing: 35
RPM 15.000 - 20.000
Torque Limit: disabled
FDR: 7,5
try it
Hi, will try that next weekend. What you are telling me is to rise the gearing, what about the heating? I have severe heating with 5.7 FDR.
With Cheat RPM activating higher the motor will heat later?
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:03 AM   #1502
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yes it will activate at 15k rpm. and be fully in effect at 20k rpm.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:59 PM   #1503
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Today I tested that settings BUT with 5.49FDR because I dont have smaller pinions.

No results. Still no top end. Reducing gearing to 7.5 I think I will loose more top speed. Right?

All the guys blame the esc.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:39 PM   #1504
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Swap out your sensor wire and make sure the motor i wired up a b c correctly if you continue have issues call castle.
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Old 09-03-2012, 04:08 AM   #1505
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Originally Posted by BeatRobinInc View Post
Swap out your sensor wire and make sure the motor i wired up a b c correctly if you continue have issues call castle.

Today I tested with 6.17 FDR and the results were very good.

The trick was Inicial CHEAT rpm at 18000 - End 23000
Timing 40


The engine heated but much less.

I think maybe its a question of right FDR as Luppi Stefano said.

The problem is that our track is very big to Eletric cars. Huge straight!


Tks to all!
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:22 AM   #1506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nelio View Post
Today I tested with 6.17 FDR and the results were very good.

The trick was Inicial CHEAT rpm at 18000 - End 23000
Timing 40


The engine heated but much less.

I think maybe its a question of right FDR as Luppi Stefano said.

The problem is that our track is very big to Eletric cars. Huge straight!


Tks to all!
sorry for late reply!
exatly, the "problem" is find a right FDR, try up tu 6,17 FDR, and Raise to 50 Cheat.
LRP X12 10.5 is 3.600KV X 8.4V = 30.240 rpm, this parameter must not exceed the maximum RPM of the engine! but attention to the end of Run, because the LIPO, isn't 8.4V but 8v or less, I considered, 3600KV x 7.8V = 28.080...I hope it's clear...
try 18.900 - 27.600 with 50 cheat for better speed, but raise FDR!
short range Start-End Timing, aggressive boost, but High temperature motor
long range Start-End Timing, progressive boost, but low temperature motor
You have to find the right balance.
good Work!
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Old 09-13-2012, 05:19 AM   #1507
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Hi guys, is it true that the sum between the motor "inner" timing plus the esc timing should not pass the 59 value?
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Old 09-25-2012, 10:07 AM   #1508
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Is there anyone that can reply to the above question please?
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:37 PM   #1509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by immarcescibile View Post
Hi guys, is it true that the sum between the motor "inner" timing plus the esc timing should not pass the 59 value?
this isn't true!
1 Year ago, I run with 50 timing Esc and LRP X12 -10
Total Timing 77,5
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Old 09-26-2012, 01:35 AM   #1510
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Thanks Stefano, [OT] sono Italiano anch'io, sentiamoci in MP [OT]
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:54 PM   #1511
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Hi guys is ther anyone who can explain me the news about the latest firmware released by Castle in these weeks???
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Old 05-19-2014, 05:48 AM   #1512
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hi guys, i know its an old thread but i hope i can get some advice.
I race my hybrid xray t4 235mm lola body 4.5t speed passion car in a local class we call 235mm outlaw, the cars effectively are 1/10 mod touring cars with foam tyres and lola pan car bodies, we run on a larger outdoor track. this class is only a couple of months old but has gotten real serious real quick, the cars absolutely fly and the time wise the only cars that are faster are 1/8 gas onroad and it isnt by much. my castle mmp has served me brilliantly and it is a great speed controller, i have always run it in blinky mode as most people have told me for mod we really shouldnt be boosting, and i have seen a few fried esc' from excess boost or turbo so have played it safe in blinky mode. I was always able to run at or near the lead with this setup and all was well.
Problem now is a couple of races back one of my competitors installed a tekin rx8 gen 2 1/8 esc into his ae tc6 and since then he has dominated race days, he runs cooler and faster than the rest of us and he has lifted the game to a level we cant quite get to, speed is king. and now two of my other competitors have installed tekin rx8 esc into their cars in readiness for this weekends race.
I love my castle mmp but am beginning to feel outgunned, this esc has already done in excess of 200 batteries but is still perfect and it has reached the point of flying or cooking if you know what i mean.
I want to show the others that the mmp can do the job and am prepared to try anything, the esc is close to bulletproof but i cant let motor heat get out of control.
to cut a long story short i want to try boosting on my esc in a last ditch effort to go with these guys, ill drop the gearing a little and set timing cut in a long way up the range maybe 40000- 50000rpm in an effort to hopefully run cooler.
any advice from any one who has tried something similar would be great, how much boost should i dial in? how much difference does say 30degrees make?, any help will be greatly appreciated.
thanks
oldenuff

ps castle mmp rules if only the mmm was as reliable but this is a whole other story and we probably shouldnt go there
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Old 12-24-2014, 07:06 PM   #1513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldenuff View Post
hi guys, i know its an old thread but i hope i can get some advice.
I race my hybrid xray t4 235mm lola body 4.5t speed passion car in a local class we call 235mm outlaw, the cars effectively are 1/10 mod touring cars with foam tyres and lola pan car bodies, we run on a larger outdoor track. this class is only a couple of months old but has gotten real serious real quick, the cars absolutely fly and the time wise the only cars that are faster are 1/8 gas onroad and it isnt by much. my castle mmp has served me brilliantly and it is a great speed controller, i have always run it in blinky mode as most people have told me for mod we really shouldnt be boosting, and i have seen a few fried esc' from excess boost or turbo so have played it safe in blinky mode. I was always able to run at or near the lead with this setup and all was well.
Problem now is a couple of races back one of my competitors installed a tekin rx8 gen 2 1/8 esc into his ae tc6 and since then he has dominated race days, he runs cooler and faster than the rest of us and he has lifted the game to a level we cant quite get to, speed is king. and now two of my other competitors have installed tekin rx8 esc into their cars in readiness for this weekends race.
I love my castle mmp but am beginning to feel outgunned, this esc has already done in excess of 200 batteries but is still perfect and it has reached the point of flying or cooking if you know what i mean.
I want to show the others that the mmp can do the job and am prepared to try anything, the esc is close to bulletproof but i cant let motor heat get out of control.
to cut a long story short i want to try boosting on my esc in a last ditch effort to go with these guys, ill drop the gearing a little and set timing cut in a long way up the range maybe 40000- 50000rpm in an effort to hopefully run cooler.
any advice from any one who has tried something similar would be great, how much boost should i dial in? how much difference does say 30degrees make?, any help will be greatly appreciated.
thanks
oldenuff

ps castle mmp rules if only the mmm was as reliable but this is a whole other story and we probably shouldnt go there
Just a little curious if you ever got the MMP to work for this kind of racing. I know that the mod TC guys running on very large tracks are boosting. 4.5 can handle 10 - 20 to start with. Not sure what the sweet spot for RPM is though. I could tell you if you were racing 17.5 or 10.5. Also the RX8 only runs in dual drive mode. Kind of like castles smart sense mode. So the motors are only started in sensored and then switch to sensorless mode. This is why they are running cooler and probably taller gearing. Sensorless is much more efficient than sensored.
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