Formula1fan

Just got another xray. I have never been able to build the shocks without rebound. I know this has probably been asked before, but please help

VenomWorldOrder

DON'T WORRY, JUST BUILD THEM WITH AS LITTLE REBOUND AS POSSIBLE. as you use them they will loose oil and the rebound will disapear.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

so you guys are telling me you have no movement in your front steering knuckles?

also, my balls, they are ze tight! so i dont know that its them

Formula1fan

Thanks dude

teamgp

I recently had some time and tested the following tips to tighten up the steering slop without any side affects.

Use small o-rings about the size of the red ones inside the shocks to tighten up the ball end joints of the steering rods. On the outer rod ends, from the top, place the screw through the o-ring first and then through the ball end/shim/knuckle. On the inner rod ends, from the bottom, place the screw through the ball-ends first, and then through the o-ring and finally into the servo saver. Putting the o-rings in between the servo saver and ball ends here will provide a little more rebound affect on the front suspension as well. Implementing these changes will make the steering feel a little tight when using your hands, but any decent servo will not lose a step in steering speed from this. I use a high speed digital servo and I couldn't tell any loss of speed.

If you use aluminum c-hubs, like myself, the plastic spacers that you put into the top and bottom holes on the c-hub will wear out and allow the knuckly to "jiggle" inside the c-hub and give some slop to the steering as well as your track width and wheelbase (not good). Just replace em with new ones.

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

ah very nice. i'll try this asap. thanks!

pcmlc

I bought a used 04Fk with about 7 races on it. I have worked for the past week trying to get the shocks to work properly. I can build 4 and at least one will be lazy. I even order enough parts to build 4 new shocks and one still ended up being lazy.

I have followed the instructions and insured that all 4 were the same length. could someone please give me the magic formula to get these *@#& shocks to work correctly!! I am about to go nuts trying to figure it out

Thanks

Joep

I cracked the problem....

I've sold the '04 and are going to concentrate myself on the '05

Thanks for the input.

VenomWorldOrder

WEIRD PROBLEM!

i have a fk04 and for some weird reason my left rear arm requires2.5 times for spacers than the right arm to acheive the same toe in!

i checked the following parts to see if they are making things warped:
-rear nuckle, swaped around from left to right
-rear left arm replaced for new one
-rear left pin replaced (long pin)

but still no luck!

also the rear left baulkhead is flat also.

i have a BMI chassis, but i don't think the screw holes are skewed because nothing binds when i put in the screws.

tom235

i just got a xray t1 and my batts hit the rear bulkhead when i put the saddle's in.
its like i have to dremil the dulkheads down just to stop twekin my chassis. i don't what to unless i have too
please help

jw92656

What X Ray did you get ? T1 or T1FK ? Is it an 04, or an 05 ?

I have a T1FK 04, and my friend has the T1FK 05 so I am familiar with both.

tom235

i think its a t104 with pivot ball sus.

Pezz

Ok just got my FK05 kit, took a little while to get here. I was wondering about the multi diff. I was looking around and it looks like I can buy a one way diff for about half the price as the multi diff, and since all I use is a one way or ball diff should I skip the multi diff all together?


-B

BlackKat

The FK04 one-way's bearings are pressed in the opposite way from the FK05 multidiff's.

tom235

i just got a t1 a little bit a go its used and im trying to find a go gearing 48 pitch or 64 . what is a go starting point for a 120ft straight, pretty tight
motor is 19t