NismoSkyline17

Just raced my Fk for the first time last night. It was also my first race on carpet. The car flew. Did a little setup tweeking and the car was on rails. Have to give props to EA Motorsports. Motor was wicked fast. Ended up TQ and placing first. I'm kicking myself for ever diverging off the Xray path.

asw7576

Yeah..... my mistake I was too lazy to mod my battery into 3 + 3 configuration, more over I already dremel ( sand off ) the chassis to seat saddle pack even lower. ( ..... actually it's not necessary because the battery posts have pre cut curve. Sorry.... first time I build Xray cars ).

Nevertheless with saddle pack on one side give me slight difference when I corner left and right. Infact when I turn right, the side with battery (left side) has more grip ! This is good because my track is clock wise .

LeadFoot

v0rtex:

If you go to your LHS and purchase some fuel tubing. you can also go to a hardware store and purchase vinyl tubbing used for plumbing.

Take some tubbing and place it over the ends of a needle nose pliers. That should hold the shaft and I have not cut through the tubing yet.

markp27

After much waiting (parts from my LHS ) today I should be able to hit the track to test out my Xray T1 FK.
I wired up the ESC, motor, etc. at the weekend and took the car for a little buzz around the living room

After weighing the car, I was shocked at how much weight I had to add to the car - over 100 grams in total!! I didn't want to splash out on the Xray weights just yet, so I used some lead with servo tape. I also added some shrink-wrapped coins, as I ran out of lead!!! Later I found that I had mis-measured the weight and I could remove the coins from the car *PHEW*.
I've got the side-to-side balance ok, but the front-to-back is still a little heavier at the rear of the car.......do you guys have an equal spilt of weight distribution front-to-read? or is it better to have one end of the car heavier?

Ok, here a pic for you guys - note the white thing on top of the servo was the shrinked-wrapped coins - they have now been removed. With everything attached and bodyshell on, the weight registers 1502 grams!

JohnMatrix

I believe that you gain about 50-60 grams with the BMI chassis. (could be off, I did weigh my non bmi with the bmi one and it was about 60 grams diff)

So if that is true than we need to add 40 grams.

FW-05RR

whats a good pinion to run on a stock motor in the FK

also for mod?

raving-monkey

depends what motor and track, with a V2 hara (12x1) on a medium sized track with rubbers (indoors) i ran 93/19.

i yet have to race stock and try out some diff gearings so i can't give you what i run yet

FW-05RR

thank you for the input

OleC

@markp27

Nice car!

What is that yellow/orange wire coming from around the servo?

Also, when I built my FK I put the servo wire underneath the lead between the servo and the receiver/ESC. This way the wire is out of the way.

There are two holes in the top deck that you can put a “cable strip” through. This makes it easier to get the crossing wires away from the belt.

Another question, what kind of springs is that? The front springs look like Copper springs for the TC3.

Also, I do really recommend getting the cutout foam bumper so you can have the transponder in the front. Nice to not have something hanging out from the side of the chassis during impacts or when getting too close to curbs etc.

Just my suggestions.

markp27

Thanks, I like it too

It is for the transponder which is next to the servo. It is the Team Orion Pro Lap Counting System (Pro LCS). It uses an infra-red Led to transmit to the receiver at the track side. You can see the LED on the ariel.

Sounds like a good idea.

I'll be doing this too - I was just too impacient to wait to take the photo

and the rear one is the gold spring from the TC3 - I like my suspension set hard as the track is very technical and the car must change direction quickly. I'll see how the FK reacts with this setup and change it if necessary.

I have a small personal transponder which I'll be putting onto the car - it will screw onto the piece of plastic between the two front body posts, so I can remove the Pro LCS transponder from the side. This will mean that I'll have to get some more lead for the car, though.

At the moment I'm just testing the car - if I intend to keep it, I'll get the thicker chassis which will help with the weight.

Thanks, Mark.

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Hey guys, I've ordered the Ultimate Spring Kit, is there any real value in also getting the Intermediate Spring Kit?

Also, if you were going to purchase ONE of the hop-ups available for this car (FK) what would it be, I have targetted the Spring Steel axles as being the first upgrade, but was wondering if I am looking in the wrong direction....

Finally, what other cars spring will work on the XRay, I see a few posts back someone was using Associated springs, will Trinity Congos work as well???

Thanks guys!

nesacuby

Rubber or Foam?

Rob Mincey

Tiger - According to a couple of others I know that drive the car, the associated springs will work.

As far as hop-ups, I think you're looking at the right thing in the spring steel axles.

If you run on carpet, grab some sway bars and 6 degree caster blocks.

Other than that, and maybe an assortment of spurs, you should be set.

Rob

NismoSkyline17

Definately get the intermediate spring kit. About 90% of the set ups out there require springs from both kits. Also definately get the spring steel axles. When you have to clean the bearings of break a front steering block you will be happy you got them.

Rob Mincey

Speaking of spur gears, does anyone know of any spurs that will fit the XRay low ratio pulley shaft besides XRay's and Kimbrough?

Rob