3LikesXray T1
11-05-2004, 08:53 PM
#9827
Tech Master
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the important things to look for in a second is, Is the chassis tweaked?, just put it on a flat surface on some droop blocks, What condition are the belts in?, teeth missing etc, Is the diff smooth?, are the pulleys worn? are the bearings tight and noisy? Bent hinge pins? any cracked carbonfibre? sloppy ball joints?
If there are any problems i with the car you can always offer the person selling it less, unless it is already cheap. You can always replace worn and broken parts.
If there are any problems i with the car you can always offer the person selling it less, unless it is already cheap. You can always replace worn and broken parts.
11-06-2004, 02:02 AM
#9828
I guaranteed my xray won't have tweak problem 
Last edited by asw7576; 11-06-2004 at 02:07 AM.
11-06-2004, 02:12 AM
#9829
Re: shock
Originally posted by JDXray
I know there is supposed to be play between the shock and shock tower, but should there be alot? Or just alittle movement?
I know there is supposed to be play between the shock and shock tower, but should there be alot? Or just alittle movement?
11-06-2004, 02:37 AM
#9830
if its tight then your shock cap must be touching the shock tower or something....mine moves a little.
if its tight then your shock wouldnt be able to move on the pivots if you get what i mean.
if its tight then your shock wouldnt be able to move on the pivots if you get what i mean.
11-06-2004, 04:14 AM
#9831
If there is no movement between the shock and shock tower then you've probably got the metal pieces in the wrong way around.
They should be mounted so the flat piece or the pivot ball is on the same side as the piece that fixes the plastic ball into the alloy bit on the shock.
Raving-monkey, Nigel (the guy at the model shop at Don Valley) has loads of insert/wheels/tyres.
What i was asking was if you had found anywhere outside the UK to get them at a cheaper price. Anyway i got some last night.
What gearing do you recon you'll run for the first round?
Asw7576, your car will be worse than a car with tweak with the batteries on one side if you've not got all the corner weights correct. Do you race on an oval or something?
They should be mounted so the flat piece or the pivot ball is on the same side as the piece that fixes the plastic ball into the alloy bit on the shock.
Raving-monkey, Nigel (the guy at the model shop at Don Valley) has loads of insert/wheels/tyres.
What i was asking was if you had found anywhere outside the UK to get them at a cheaper price. Anyway i got some last night.
What gearing do you recon you'll run for the first round?
Asw7576, your car will be worse than a car with tweak with the batteries on one side if you've not got all the corner weights correct. Do you race on an oval or something?
11-06-2004, 05:05 AM
#9832
Rob, i also tried to find somewhere that sold 15-40s outisde the UK and had no look..and it hink their overpriced at £8.99 a pair(thats about $17 a pair
)
I might start with something like 93/25 as a starting point, might be a bit overgeared but its a starting point...i was speaking to someone who came 6th overall in stock last year (Jonny Aird) and iirc he said he ran 93/26 or something.
What motor you running?
)I might start with something like 93/25 as a starting point, might be a bit overgeared but its a starting point...i was speaking to someone who came 6th overall in stock last year (Jonny Aird) and iirc he said he ran 93/26 or something.
What motor you running?
11-06-2004, 06:16 AM
#9833
93/26!!!! thats 6.33!!!!
That seems very overgeared i was thinking of a starting point of around 93/22, 7.48 or 93/21 7.84 on a monster stock. But i've never raced a stock on a track as big as Don Valley.
For mod i think i'm gonna go for 93/22 7.48 with a Reedy PT 10single or a V2 11single
When he told you that he ran a 26 was he running an Xray? and if he was, was he using the low ratio pulleys?
That seems very overgeared i was thinking of a starting point of around 93/22, 7.48 or 93/21 7.84 on a monster stock. But i've never raced a stock on a track as big as Don Valley.
For mod i think i'm gonna go for 93/22 7.48 with a Reedy PT 10single or a V2 11single
When he told you that he ran a 26 was he running an Xray? and if he was, was he using the low ratio pulleys?
11-06-2004, 07:55 AM
#9834
yep he was using low ratios..i will be actually using his car (bought it off him when he moved to FK)
on a track smaller than don valley i run 93/24 with a 19t motor and it has good speed and good accel.
i will try get out in practise so i can play arund with diff ratios.
and wouldn't you use a lower ratio with a stock than you would with a spec/mod anyway...if you get what i mean.
if i was to run around 7.5 i would be using a 21 pinion or something..mental
on a track smaller than don valley i run 93/24 with a 19t motor and it has good speed and good accel.
i will try get out in practise so i can play arund with diff ratios.
and wouldn't you use a lower ratio with a stock than you would with a spec/mod anyway...if you get what i mean.
if i was to run around 7.5 i would be using a 21 pinion or something..mental
11-06-2004, 08:03 AM
#9835
Tech Master
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is the evo2 comparable to a factory? how much nicer is the factory to drive? i was planning on getting the factory but i accidentally bought the evo2 instead. should i try to sell it and get the factory?
11-06-2004, 08:28 AM
#9836
Originally posted by raving-monkey
if its tight then your shock cap must be touching the shock tower or something....mine moves a little.
if its tight then your shock wouldnt be able to move on the pivots if you get what i mean.
if its tight then your shock cap must be touching the shock tower or something....mine moves a little.
if its tight then your shock wouldnt be able to move on the pivots if you get what i mean.
pivoting left and right : yes
11-06-2004, 09:25 AM
#9837
asw - why are you running your batteries down one side? If you're an oval racer, I can see why you might do that, but if not, equal balance is going to be difficult to achieve.
Rob
Rob
11-06-2004, 10:12 AM
#9838
Tech Rookie
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Last edited by jonnyaird; 11-21-2004 at 06:22 AM.
11-06-2004, 02:21 PM
#9839
Originally posted by dado11g
is the evo2 comparable to a factory? how much nicer is the factory to drive? i was planning on getting the factory but i accidentally bought the evo2 instead. should i try to sell it and get the factory?
is the evo2 comparable to a factory? how much nicer is the factory to drive? i was planning on getting the factory but i accidentally bought the evo2 instead. should i try to sell it and get the factory?
If you want to, keep the evo2 and get short wishbones and low ratio pulleys....then apart from bulkheads (dont know how much difference they make) and shock tower and outdrives, axles and driveshafts (all for saving weight only) then its the same as an FK.
Also, if you bought an FK you would have to buy a normal diff unless you usually run one-ways anyway.
11-06-2004, 02:22 PM
#9840
Originally posted by raving-monkey
i run an evo2 with short wishbones, low ratios and a FK rear shock tower and i was beating an FK tonight..in every heat until my motor went kaput.
If you want to, keep the evo2 and get short wishbones and low ratio pulleys....then apart from bulkheads (dont know how much difference they make) and shock tower and outdrives, axles and driveshafts (all for saving weight only) then its the same as an FK.
Also, if you bought an FK you would have to buy a normal diff unless you usually run one-ways anyway.
i run an evo2 with short wishbones, low ratios and a FK rear shock tower and i was beating an FK tonight..in every heat until my motor went kaput.
If you want to, keep the evo2 and get short wishbones and low ratio pulleys....then apart from bulkheads (dont know how much difference they make) and shock tower and outdrives, axles and driveshafts (all for saving weight only) then its the same as an FK.
Also, if you bought an FK you would have to buy a normal diff unless you usually run one-ways anyway.
Even though i got my FK sitting on the side lines for now 