Xray T1
#8581
Originally posted by JDXray
anyone have this new hudy set up system?
http://www.hudy.net/flash_stuff/all_in/index.htm
Seems like it is better then the plastic one.
Does anyone know where i can get a nice Motor lathe?
anyone have this new hudy set up system?
http://www.hudy.net/flash_stuff/all_in/index.htm
Seems like it is better then the plastic one.
Does anyone know where i can get a nice Motor lathe?
#8582
Re: Asked this question before but need more feedback
Originally posted by rustler753
Hi, Im looking for a comparison on JUST the Hpi 4 and Xray T1 . Ive been racing for about 7 years with my tc3 and i grow tired of it. I will be racing on carpet and I want to have your opinion on which is a better car the Xray T1 Factory Team or the HPI pro 4. I know many of you will say, but rustler753 they are the same...its the driver that what counts bla bla bla...and the avereage driver say
corny example:
OMFG!!!!1111 dude get a tamiya or
stay with the TC3 it rules!!!1111......
but I want a pros opinion, whos racing for a while and actually has wins under his/her belt. Why is the (xray or hpi ) better? What makes it so special? which has a better drive train? Which is lighter? Better design? More balanced? Which chassis has the least amount of flex? Which drives better and haddles with precision? Which one you don't have to mod much or even at all to get it to perform (unlike the TC3 which needs modding like a mofo). I know you are professionals and I want your professional opinion, because we all have our preference and I want to hear them . Speak up ! Let your voices be heard!!
peace out
Hi, Im looking for a comparison on JUST the Hpi 4 and Xray T1 . Ive been racing for about 7 years with my tc3 and i grow tired of it. I will be racing on carpet and I want to have your opinion on which is a better car the Xray T1 Factory Team or the HPI pro 4. I know many of you will say, but rustler753 they are the same...its the driver that what counts bla bla bla...and the avereage driver say
corny example:
OMFG!!!!1111 dude get a tamiya or
stay with the TC3 it rules!!!1111......
but I want a pros opinion, whos racing for a while and actually has wins under his/her belt. Why is the (xray or hpi ) better? What makes it so special? which has a better drive train? Which is lighter? Better design? More balanced? Which chassis has the least amount of flex? Which drives better and haddles with precision? Which one you don't have to mod much or even at all to get it to perform (unlike the TC3 which needs modding like a mofo). I know you are professionals and I want your professional opinion, because we all have our preference and I want to hear them . Speak up ! Let your voices be heard!!
peace out
#8583
T1R Raycer
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
#8584
Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by wesb_65
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
#8585
Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by wesb_65
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
#8586
Re: Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by Pyramid
If you just play for fun and on and off in racing, T1R should be the perfect choice. If you really into racing T1FK is the best bet and the strongest car available today. From T1R in order to upgrade to T1FK, it cost you, I belive, more than twice the price for T1R while the original cost 50% more expensive between those two.
If you just play for fun and on and off in racing, T1R should be the perfect choice. If you really into racing T1FK is the best bet and the strongest car available today. From T1R in order to upgrade to T1FK, it cost you, I belive, more than twice the price for T1R while the original cost 50% more expensive between those two.
Watch that space
#8587
Re: Re: Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by markp27
Hey Pyramid, the first part of my T1 FK versus TRF-415 review is coming to 3hobby.com, just as soon as Sow can get his old bones to work
Watch that space
Hey Pyramid, the first part of my T1 FK versus TRF-415 review is coming to 3hobby.com, just as soon as Sow can get his old bones to work
Watch that space
#8588
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by wesb_65
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Let me know if you are interested in a T1R, I might be able to hook you up with a good condition used one. It'll be cool, I can help you out with the setup.
Like all the guys been saying, the T1R is a good and durable car.
Give me a call and we can chat.
Dom
#8589
Tech Regular
Re: T1R Raycer
Originally posted by wesb_65
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Hi everyone
I have been running a TC3 for about 2 years now and am getting tired of some of it's weak spots(I'm not a very good driver). I was looking at the T1R Raycer, is it decent or should I just save my money until I can afford the T1R FK?
Chazz
#8590
XRay T1 Factory Kit
Folks,
If you're interested, MarkP has posted a comprehensive review of the XRAY T1 Factory Kit comparing it with the TRF 414 at 3hobby.com.
Click "Read more ..." when you go there and enjoy!
He plans to write part II of review as he progresses with building both these kits.
Cheers.
If you're interested, MarkP has posted a comprehensive review of the XRAY T1 Factory Kit comparing it with the TRF 414 at 3hobby.com.
Click "Read more ..." when you go there and enjoy!
He plans to write part II of review as he progresses with building both these kits.
Cheers.
Last edited by Sow&Steady; 08-23-2004 at 05:18 AM.
#8591
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
i'm too lazy to do a search...
can anyone tell me what's the major different between a T1-Racer and a T1 FT ? i can only see plastic vs graphite chassis and 4wd vs oneway....
does the FT worth $120+ extra? I care more about the performance than the look of graphite...
can anyone tell me what's the major different between a T1-Racer and a T1 FT ? i can only see plastic vs graphite chassis and 4wd vs oneway....
does the FT worth $120+ extra? I care more about the performance than the look of graphite...
#8592
At least you're honest.
The T1R has the plastic tub chassis and the long arm suspension from the orignal Evo2. The Factory car has the short arm suspension, lightened bulkheads, lightened drive hexes, drive shafts, lightened layshaft, new shock tower in the rear, low ratio pulleys (don't know if the T1R has those) and narrow belts front and rear (again, don't know if they T1R has them.)
In my opinion, yes, the Factory car is worth the price difference.
Rob
The T1R has the plastic tub chassis and the long arm suspension from the orignal Evo2. The Factory car has the short arm suspension, lightened bulkheads, lightened drive hexes, drive shafts, lightened layshaft, new shock tower in the rear, low ratio pulleys (don't know if the T1R has those) and narrow belts front and rear (again, don't know if they T1R has them.)
In my opinion, yes, the Factory car is worth the price difference.
Rob
#8593
light weight diffes
light weight drive shafts
new bulkhead
low ratio pulleys
light weight out drive for one way
new shock towers rear
carpet shock towers front
light weight axles
short arms
solid top deck
lower suspension holder with aluminum nut
lightened solid aluminum layshaft
shorter pivot pin holders
shorter turn buckles
all captured ball ends
composit bumper.
these are the obvoius changes. I know there are more
light weight drive shafts
new bulkhead
low ratio pulleys
light weight out drive for one way
new shock towers rear
carpet shock towers front
light weight axles
short arms
solid top deck
lower suspension holder with aluminum nut
lightened solid aluminum layshaft
shorter pivot pin holders
shorter turn buckles
all captured ball ends
composit bumper.
these are the obvoius changes. I know there are more
#8594
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
i would appreciate some feedback on the following question.
when assembling the rear arms, they do not move up and down freely with the 2mm toe in clip, what can i do to resolve this issue? with the clip in it pushes the back out and thats when it binds, with the clip out it moves up and down freely. has anyone else had these problems if so what was the answer.
thanx in advance
when assembling the rear arms, they do not move up and down freely with the 2mm toe in clip, what can i do to resolve this issue? with the clip in it pushes the back out and thats when it binds, with the clip out it moves up and down freely. has anyone else had these problems if so what was the answer.
thanx in advance
#8595
Tech Champion
iTrader: (9)
Originally posted by kerry
i would appreciate some feedback on the following question.
when assembling the rear arms, they do not move up and down freely with the 2mm toe in clip, what can i do to resolve this issue? with the clip in it pushes the back out and thats when it binds, with the clip out it moves up and down freely. has anyone else had these problems if so what was the answer.
thanx in advance
i would appreciate some feedback on the following question.
when assembling the rear arms, they do not move up and down freely with the 2mm toe in clip, what can i do to resolve this issue? with the clip in it pushes the back out and thats when it binds, with the clip out it moves up and down freely. has anyone else had these problems if so what was the answer.
thanx in advance