littledog

I have run into that prob a few times in the past.All I did is push down on sorvo saver,removed eclip and added a few shims to the top,and replaced eclip.This made servo saver tighter.I did not have the prob since.And allso noticed that I did not have prob of stering wandering left one minute then right the next.

True R/C Racing

WOuld anyone not recommend ALum Parts for Xray?
I am gettin Knuckles, C-hub, rear hubs.

Also What do you guys think of ALUM shock bodies?

littledog

I don't know bout knuckles,but I have tried the c hubs and rear knuckles.IMO it does not flex and lets your suspention actualy work instead of flexing.The shocks feel great but I have had some that would cause me to have a higher ride hight (even with collar threaded all the way up)I think defect in the threading machine.like it had too many threads on it or something.Tried useing them on my ray mini and had same prob.I tried another set that freind had laying around and still the same thing.they do feel smoother though.

True R/C Racing

So you wouldn't or anyone else suggest knuckles(alum)?

Jeff Brown

We ran the aluminum rear carriers and some guys ran the aluminum 0 deg caster hubs in the front at the PreWorlds. You can control traction with them for sure. Josh ran aluminum rear carriers and composite fronts to free up the rear end more. Not many use the knuckles.....

Jeff

True R/C Racing

Jeff I know your an oustanding driver and maybe this has never happened to you but how hard are these to bend? Im worried to hit a corner and bend them...

Jeff Brown

Honestly......... not sure about the front ones. I don't think anything in asphalt racing will kill them. Well, unless they leave the chicane onto the straightaway. haha. I think the only time you would need the aluminum ones is if you wanted to run 0 deg caster because they are more "true" than the molded ones for some reason.

Jeff

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

The aluminum used in the Chubs is very soft and racing indoors on a fairly punishing track we found them to be a waste. Yes, you did not get many DNFs but you also get C hubs with 10 degrees of caster at some point!

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

What spur gear are you guys running. With my first xray I ran 128 with the 1.77 gears. I see that I can get a 130 and a 132....any thoughts?

Brian McGreevy

iTrader: (10)

Joneser, I made up a pic of how I have my batts configured for the staggered chassis car. Here's a pic I did on windows paint.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

tanx a bundle, i guess i have to rebuild the servo saver then. although, i havent really experienced the "wandering car syndrome" in my FOC despite bad crashes

are alum suspension parts really as good as they say? im also apprehensive coz a bda crash could easily deform them given their construction and all that.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

aluminum C hub and knuckles are easily bent. They can be bent back but get worse every time. I dont see any of the factory guys running the aluminum front end pieces.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

just as i thought.

what about the layshaft? the FOC has one with the spring steel in it, do i really need to upgrade to the alum ones?

gido

I don't think the layshaft on the FOC has spring steel material in it....Maybe you are referring to another part. Just go with solid layshaft...you won't regret it.

evaa

iTrader: (7)

its part number 305511, description is Layshaft Spring Steel Integr. Spur G. Adapter EVO2.

solid layshaft is the aluminum one with part number 305502 Solid Alu Central Layshaft Set ? am i right?