JCB

Hey,

Thanks for the response. So under the screw for the front, and for the rear just under the hub or the part where the set screw goes in? Also what is a good droop setting for front and rear when running 57mm tires?

Thanks again,

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Where would you want to use the Soft, Medium, and Hard arms respectively? Also, should you use them consistently from front to back?

JCB

Hey guys, I have a question for ya:

When I set the front Anti-dive to 3 degrees the front of my car raises way up. I can't get it to go under 6mm ride height. I'm also using the front Carpet shock tower and my tires are 57mm.
Help very appreciated......

thanks again,

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Read 6 posts up from yours. The answer is there.

JCB

Ok, thanks again. I just need clarification for the rear, do i measure from the hub or where the set screw goes in? Also what's a good droop setting for front and rear? I'm using carpet shock tower with 57 mm tires.

THANKS!

KMW

iTrader: (11)

In general softer arms provide more traction while harder arms reduce traction. So on a high traction carpet track with foams you may want to try the hard arms. On a dusty parking lot track using rubber tires the soft arms might be a good choice. They should be a consistent hardness from left to right, but not necessarily front to back.

These are for fine tuning, i.e. you have a good working setup already, but you still want to slightly alter the cornering balance of the car. Changing an angle (camber, toe, shocks, etc.) or springs/damping might offer too much of a change and/or have a negative side effect, so these are just yet another tuning option.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

I have noticed that on my left front shock, it has developed a leak at the bottom. What can I do to fix this?

sands

Softer suspension parts and chassis make the car's setup more forgiving to track condition changes. If you track is very consistent on traction, (carpet) they run the hardest, stiffest stuff you can find. Outdoors the traction is usually inconsistent on different parts of the track - so you want a softer suspension and chassis to make the car more forgiving to surface changes.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

I would think if your grub screw is sticking out the bottom of the rear hub that possibly your pivot pin may not be set right where the grub screw meets the machined surface of the pivot pin. That can happen. Yes..... you would measure from the lowest point of the rear hub. I say the 'lowest point' because I don't know if you're using anti-squat.

David Galdo

iTrader: (15)

You will have to rebuild the shock replacing the o-ring found in the shock bottom retainer. Be sure to inspect the shock shaft for any scoring to prevent another sooner-than-expected rebuild.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Thanks cadet

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

Called ashfordhobby.com yesterday and have 2 sets of the rear short arms, and 1 set of the front short arms. Does anyone have any pics or quasi-instructions on what's needed to install them.

Car is in pieces right now for a re-build. Everything is taken apart. Tonight Everything gets cleaned. Woohoo!

pilmat

dr_hfuhuhurr,

What are the part numbers on those short arms?

Phil Matthews #99

dr_hfuhuhurr

iTrader: (94)

302159 - Susp Arm Lower/Ft C-hub T1M
303159 - Susp Arm Lower/Rr C-hub T1M

flbugboy

iTrader: (6)

Any word on T1M ?