mike_Webb

Sands... that is illegal for competition.

sands

Ah, didn't know that. Thanks.

pro3racer

i'm thinking about sellling my xxx-s G+, to buy a xray t1. 1. is it a good idea, for competition and durabilty. 2. Is there a woven chassis for it, or is that tub the only one? 3. Tell me the reasons to, or not to.
thanx

mike_Webb

1. It can be a good idea .... it all depends though on your driving style. There are a lot more adjustments that can be made to fine tune the T1R then there are on a XXX-S. The parts are very hard to break and the car can take a beating. I know from experience with the XXX-S if you touch a board you can sometimes crack the Diff Outdrives...not going to happen on a X-Ray

2. Yes there is a Graphite Chassis

3. There are a ton of reasons to do it. One downside is that in order to compete then you need parts support. If your local hobby shop does not have the parts then you are going to have to go through the X-Shop or Ashford Hobbies. I have a backup of Arms, Rear Carriers, Front Carriers and C-Hubs jsut in case I break.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Last week at our race the A-main was won by a driver that has made the A main at the indoor champs for 12th scale and touring a number of different times. He was running a losi for a while and just switched to an Xray. His lap times were incredible and he outran a field full of tc3's driven by a number of A-B main qulifiers from the indoor champs. I talked to him afterwards about how he liked his new car and he said "handles like a Losi but its fast".

I think that the tc3 may be a little faster but my lap times are much more consistant because of how easy the Xray is to drive...get the Xray.

racerdx6

Get the x-ray. I was faster with mine right out of the box when I switched from my tc3. The car is very easy to drive and its extremly easy to drive. Not to mention how durable it is.

Tommy Bergfeldt

Ian

I've been running the evo2 for a few months now and was wondering if you guys use a sandpaper to remove some pits on the diff rings...normally on my other cars i'll use 600 grit paper and will smooth it out with 1500 grit paper

university_dave

Sparx; I have a lot of time for the spool, it is excellent on tight tracks, especially indoors. You will have to work rather hard on the setup though, as it can be difficult to get the car to turn into the corners due to the nature of a spool. It is possible, but you will have to make some rather radical changes to your setup.

It does have one major drawback, however. The spool does have a tendency to chew through the driveshaft blades. Running 27t stock I would go through a pair of blades every meeting.

KMW

iTrader: (11)

Looking at many team driver setups I've noticed that they all appear to use 48-pitch spur gears in the 90s. Does anyone know why that is, as opposed to using 64-pitch?

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

this is just a guess but most of the team drivers have posted setups for outdoors.....I dont race outdoors but I think 48 pitch is better for outdoors because of dirt or other objects that could make using 64 pitch more difficult.

ZER01

I run outdoor with 64P and yet have had a problem with chewed up spurs/pinions. Usually 48P suprs will lodge bigger rocks in their teeth while 64P will lodge smaller rocks so either way you go will be okay.

racerdx6

When I turn into a corner my car rolls a ton at the beginning. And so I scrub off a bunch of corner speed at the beginning of the corner. Also the chassis will develope a goo from the carpet that builds up (at the end of a run I can actually scrape it off with my fingernail). I've had the goo build up on my tc3 before too, and I know other people have had it. But I've never seen this much.

I think I either have the x-ray 28 lb. violet springs up front or the associated 30 lb. purple springs up front. The look so similer that you cant actually tell a difference unless you measure them cuz the x-ray springs are a slight bit longer.

I'm thinking that if I close one of the holes in my shock piston it might slow down the suspension action some. Does closing a hole act like using heavier shock oil? By just slowing down all suspension action? And if closing a hole doesnt reduce the chassis roll at the beginning of a turn than I'll put some heavier springs on front. Anyone got any input on this? Thanks.

sands

Hevier springs is probably the first thing that I'd try.

Your idea of increasing the damping rate is a good one. As long as your track is smooth on the high speed straights, closing more holes will be fine. If the high speed sections are bumpy you will have to go up in shock oil weight and keep the holes open. This has to do with shock "pack" and fluid dynamics. If you are an engineer, it is related to the reynolds number of the shock design.

Yes, making the dampers react slower will slow down the initial body roll, but will also slow the recovery. RPM makes a dual rate shock piston that will allow for higher compression rates than rebound. I haven't tried them though and don't know if they will fit the xray dampers. They do fit associated dampers.

Initial body roll is also controlled by the camber links. Try a more angled link or shorter link. This will have other impacts as well and you need to be carefull.

I've attached a quick reference sheet that I use. I assembled this from a bunch of reading that is available on the internet. Google for "rc car dynamics" and that should get you started.

Accord

Does anyone have a good setup (or a link to a good setup on MyTSN) that uses a front spool? On MyTSN i've looked through a bunch of setups but none of them are running a spool.

Thanks