Accord

Glad I could help.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys....just wanted to let you know that I have a raycer kit for sale in the forums. Kit has been run about 3 races and has the 1.77 pullys, 3mm belts, graphite front and rear shock towers and shocks have been mounted using the hardware from an evo2 (mounted on balls instead of screwed into the shock tower). Keeping the evo2 but there is no need for both cars. ITs like new!

mike_Webb

I got some X-Ray parts for sale Cheap in the for sale section. E-mail me if you are interested.

Mike Webb

Neil Rabara

Looks like the T1M won't be available to the public until christmas time. Hopefully, some people will get it early to promote the car.

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

How often are you guys rebuilding your diffs?

Also how long do the stock diff balls usually last and do you ever replace the small balls and washers in the factory installed thrust part.

I have a EVO2 that has only seen about 7 races and the rear diff is gritty, but the front is fine. I also rebuilt my T1 that I got used and the diffs feel like crap. So I was wondering what some of you guys are replacing and and how long some stuff will last.

Thanks.

StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

I've ran mine almost 2 months and i havent had to rebuild them yet, still smooth as glass

Neil Rabara

I went for months before my first rebuild. If your rear diff is gritty, you may have a problem with assembly, or dirt is getting past the labyrinth dust covers.

fReShJiVe

what are the effects of running tighter or looser front diff?
thanks

Jimmy Fukuyama

Tighter, more rotational resistence = better acceleration.
Looser, less rotational resistence= better grip or traction.

Bare in mind, your front diff has to be in proportion to your rear diff as this will increase or decrease chassis roll due to resistence. Having a balanced front and rear diff will allow you to gain corner speed which is one of the most important thing in RC racing. If its a big flowing track, then adjusting it tigher will definately benefit you while on technical surfaces, you might want to gain traction for hard left or right. Tire is another thing that coincides with your diff setting. Less traction tires will do good with with loose diff (loose meaning not too tight but not loose where it'll constantly slip), and high traction tires can needs tigher diff or else you will most likely experience some scrubbing off speed.

Jimmy

fReShJiVe

jimmy - thanks for the clarification...just wondering cause i'm running slightly looser setting on my front(no slipping)...so i was wondering what would happen if i were to tighten the front slightly(as tight as the rear)...as of now i really like how the car handles so i'm not going to touch it without knowing what it will do to the handling of the car...any more comment regarding this would be really appreciated

thanks

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

Jimmy, I e mailed you about some parts I needed.

So what parts are you replacing when you do rebuild. Because with my trucks I'd normally just replace the washers and replace the balls about once a year.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

For me in and my testing-I always use these simple rules and it works for me every time.

TIghter front diff for more on-power steering out of corner. Might hurt turn in somewhat. Car feels very direct, but may be harder to be consistent from corner to corner, but FAST. Yu can jump on throttle sooner.

Looser rear diff for more aggressive turn in, might hurt acceleration (speed out of corner) just a tad.I dont stray away from those principles because thats the extent of my testing and experimenting.

I would always try to start with both diffs the same tightness (Well-as cose as you can feel), tight enough to not slip-but not locked.

If car pushes on exit-tighten that front diff. if car is lazy turning in-loosen rear diff. Or a combination of the two.

ALSO-and I thnk this is the key to testing-dont go battery pack to battery pack when doing this type of changes. RUn 5 or 6 laps-come right in-make the change and go right back out. Try and drive as consistent as you can.

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

Are you guys still using the stock grease that came with the xray or did you make a switch? I have mugen super grease that is a tad too heavy but works well on my 705 centax clutch thrust bearing. I have tried Associated black grease that seems to work well. Using it sparingly is the key though.

Neil Rabara

I still use the stock grease that came in the syringe. I hadn't had any problems with it, in fact I use it sparingly. Devin, why would you switch to another type of grease?

Accord

I used the syringe up until it ran out, then I switched over to Trinity Joel Magic Johnson silicone on road diff oil. Supposedly it's "specially formulated for on-road racing" . It does work pretty well and I reccomend it to everyone.