StephenSobottka

iTrader: (8)

Hey guys,
I have 11 chassis screws stuck in the bulkheads and these arent coming out. What do u guys use for anti seize lube? because i had loctite on these and they are not coming out with out being milled out.

wannabee

iTrader: (4)

I had the same problem with the screws in my used T1, I found setting a hot iron on the head of the screw for about a minute will "melt" the locktite a bit and will allow the screw to be cranked out...But I have also had some locked in to the point that this didn't work, so I soldered a small flat head driver into the screw and then cranked it out...This sounds silly but it worked well for me...Good luck!

Kevin

dtm

Ouch...that sounds nasty. I have never found the need to use loctite on the chassis screws. However, after each day of running I will loosen the chassis screws until the next time I run...no problems so far.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Loctite on chassis screws is a no-no...
I loosen and tighted all the screws before and after each race day.

If you're unable to get it out...get a screw extractor from Home Depot...

pucho

CypressMidWest: I can't wait but here in sunny Floriday it seams that my biggest problem so far has been the compostie upper bumper holders, and bending wheels (cross wheels used on cs-27's) but shumaker (supplyer of the spec tire) is now switching to a much stronger dish wheel. Oh and I forgot to mention the blades on the front axel I keep tering those appart. But I can appreciate the extra protection.


Trinityracinnut: If it all fails you can always put a slot on the screw with your Dremel and get it out with a flathead screwdriver.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

pucho: I'm lucky enough to race in an area that's foams only, so we don't really have any issues with wheels. Is the composite upper bumper brace warping because of the heat, or is it breaking because of impact? If you're breaking them the Rubberneck bumper will more than likely cure that.

pucho

It's because of impact but it's not that it's a mayor problem. For example the one on my car right now It's fractured but I can keep ruuning it. I do have a spare in case that one breaks

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hey all,

Well-I am finally going to do it!!! I put together my trusty old TC3 (and I do mean OLD!!) with what should be a very similar set-up to the top 4 or 5 fastest guys in our club (All running TC3's) and will race it Tuesday night-as well as my T1R!!! Now I can finally see what the difference is between the two now that I am very happy with the set-up on my T1R.

The interesting thing is neither car is that close to a stock. The Tc3 has a milled chassis with batteries moved way in to center and weighs 50oz. The T1R has the 1.77 pulleys, narow rear belt and lots of aluminum C-hub stuff and weighs about 52oz.
I usually qualify between 4th and 5th on a normal night and finish the A in 3rd place so I am intersted to see how I now qualify and finish. For some reason I think I might qualify higher and finish lower in the Main!!!

But-this will be a great test for my track as nothing but a TC3 has TQ'd or won the A-in probably 7-months or more.

Ray

volav

The new kit has A arms that are soft med and hard. I assume this makes the chassis the same. Can someone give me an idea when to use each. I would guess the standard is to run med?

The C Hubbs are also the same way, except for no hard. Would you normally match the hardness of the arms with the hubbs.


Thanks
Ross

pucho

I would say the more available traction the harder you may wan't to go and viceversa. In asphalt it seams that the soft rear and mediun from arms that come with the T1R are good but I yet to test anything else and probably won't unless it was a last resource. There are many other things in my opinion that are much more inportant to deal with before changing arms unles they where Long or short arms that would defenately have an effect on handling more so than the stiffness of the arm.

Neil Rabara

I had to use loctite on the wheel screws. That's the only way to keep them on running modified. I've had a couple of occurences in stock that backed off the wheel screws.

Neil Rabara

I use a dab of grease as a barrier between the screw and the bulkhead.

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

I do the same thing...anything that a screw touches any metal part...I always put some grease on the threads...

Elk666

Hi guys, can someone that has a rubberneck bumper please post a pic.
i've asked Kevin to send me 1 but i'm still waiting for it (the pic.) i want to get his bumper from what you guys were saying about it, it sounds good but i want to see a pic first.
thanks

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

there's a couple of pics on the previous page.