I guess nobody has yet given an in depth review fo the newly anticipated T1R so I thought you guys might be interested in this 2 part review. The version I originally had dates back to early Febuary where only certain people had access to, yet some parts were directly from the EVO2. I am not going into any further details as to how I came upon that car. In knowing that the launch date of the new T1R was in late March and readily available now to all racers, I am going to write about the final production version of this car. Please keep in mind that this version is the same version we all will see on shelves of hobby stores world wide so to make this a fair comparison to the EVO2.
The box came as the same size of the EVO2 with the same compartments and of course comes with all the needed parts to easily assemble the car. What was different was it came with a turnbuckle wrench which of course is extreme useful when setting up the car. The parts are bagged similar to the EVO2 which makes it easy for sorting out parts. The manual is also done similar to the EVO2 which makes one feel this kit is actually an EVO2. LOL. Parts are fitted nicely, and totally "luxury" just like it's big brother. HUDY has done it again with an excellent job!
Putting together the car was a breeze like usual except a few key parts are different in it's functionality. One, being that it only came with composite C-hubs, the rear hinge holders are installed slight differently then you would with the Alu C-hubs. This is because with the ALU C-hubs, the holder are the same size and you can shim it with caster clips to adjust the toe-in on the car. Here, they are actually holders, with different size for different toe-in settings. This is good since they allow a more precise measurement and can be easily changed. Another thing I've notice is gone are the caster clips which can easily allow you to change the wheelbase. Here, you will find that due to the composite chassis, the front and rear bottom have been closed so unlike the EVO2 Carbon chassis, you can't just clip and unclip to change it's wheelbase. So as for the ease of changing your wheelbase, it's gone away.
The chassis design is quite creative with the air in-take channels which allows air flow to travel underneath directly cooling the motor. This of course has it's setback since sliding the saddle pack batteries in is harder due to the hump that is located on the center of the chassis. Sliding the packs in is a pain IMO since the belt is in the way and the lip of the chassis tub makes it even harder. You have to carefully maneuver the packs in and it takes a little practice time. Though once in place, you won't have to worry about the pack shorting against the side since the hump acts like a seperator. The front of tub chassis is tight and do require some creativities to mount the ESC and Receivers in place. There aren't much room so those who have a capacitor for your esc will have to mount it on the top of your Speedo. I managed to cut away a small amount of the lip so I can have a lower CG and do away with mounting the cap elsewhere. The other side where the servo goes is fine. The servo mounts are square in shape and acts just as good as the aluminum ones that came with the EVO2. As for the location of the transponder, they have two holes, one of the right and one of the left side next to the rear battery post. The transponder mount is an "L" shape composite holder. How they decide to have it there is questionable since most people would rather mount it on the front of the car. I'd hate to see a race when two cars are crossing the finish line and see the Raycer loose just because the transponder location is hanging next to the motor. I'm sure getting the optional transponder front upper bumper holder is a good idea and a wise investment if you race.
With that being said, lets go back to battery. I've found the battery mounting posts a little short. This may be because I'm running GP3300 cells which are a tad larger then the Sanyo cells or others. This can be easily solved by shimming the bottom of the post by .5mm or 1mm. This will then allow body pins to go into the hole on the post. Unlike the EVO2 where the carbon mounts are screwed onto the post, these uses the body clips. They work fine so far so no complain here. Another thing I must mention are the differentials. They are exactly the same as the EVO2 and made of Duraluminum. The only differences this time is you won't be able to flip the car over and stick your 2mm wrench in to adjust it from the bottom of the car. This time, you'll have to settle from the top since this is common sense with the enclosed composite chassis. No biggie really!. I've also notice a different type of center layshaft. This is probably a brand new lower cost version of the optional Solid center layshaft but works just as good if not better. Gone are the Spring-Steel one-way center layshaft. This is good and will allow the drivetrain to be more efficient. I'm sure there was talk about the a new type of front swaybar. The new composite upper brace allows this option to be easily installed since there are two holes where the front swaybar goes over the brace. I guess since the T1R is designed for parking lot bashes and will easily accomodate lower traction courses, the new swaybars will work better then the adjustable bladed ones. We'll have to see when it gets installed.
Test Run Parking Lot:
This car handles great right out of the box! I'm not surprise though being it's a XRAY and the c-hubs are are on while the whole car is basically a "Composite EVO2". I first threw this car on the HUDY Setup board and proceeded to adjust and match it's factory settings. Nothing was changed or upgraded. Tires I used where Takeoff CS27s. Motor used Gold Peak Hellfire stock. Geared at 7.32/ 48p setting for the initial run. Condition of the parking lot were semi-smooth asphalt, lightly dusted with temps of 75f. Ride height were set to 4.5mm front, 5.5 rear. Car accelerated smoothly just like the EVO2. Transitional weight of the car is very well balanced at the default settings. Front shock springs are Violet, rear Blue (came with kit). To my expectations, the car connected smoothly and had just enough flex with it's upper deck to run a 30ft slalom with great response and speed. Another apex ran with slight body roll but still poist like a champion. The figure 8 had a slight hestitation but I think with the rear roll center bridge, it'll be fixed. Steering is tight and tracks accordingly and extremely responsive. I had to turn down the dual rate just so I don't loose speed from scrubbing. With it's front and rear droop setting per manual, the balanced weight transferred gracefully and responsively to sudden steering change. After two packs of cells and numerous abuse, I was ready for the mod test. Fitted with a D5 10double, I gunned the throttle but this time, the rear weren't as planted. So I did a one step downgrade both front and rear springs adjusted the rear camber by 1 degrees and the car was back on the track. Slalom was amazing with this car, it just wouldn't give up! hairpin turns were tight and responsive from off power to on power transition, the car poisted just like stock. I've though of the carbon ultra flex deck will do even better so on it went and believe it or not, it didn't do much. I'm suspecting because the less then perfect track could be the cause. I'll have to test it some more to see what works on my part 2. But all in all, this parking lot basher rocks! I think it'll eat up the TC3 parking lot racer anytime. My next step is to head down to some high traction course and do some more testing on that. But for what it's worth, this IS what HUDY said it would be. Til next post..........