Neil Rabara

Alex, when are you making it down here for the Reedy Race?

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

hey everyone....I just thought I would post my experience with my Evo 2's first run. I race with Ray and I decided to buy one after running his around one night after racing. Started racing 2 seasons ago and have run a TC3 that is heavily modified. Always loved the fit and finish of an Xray but did not want to be the only guy to run one especially when I dont have all the experience to figure out setups. I ran Rays and was quick right away so the next day I had one coming. Yesterday I had our local hobbytown race to go to....racing starts at 6:30 but at 5:00 I was still finishing the car and making saddle packs.

Took the car to the track and broke in the diff.....made some fine radio adjustments and ran about 3 minutes of practice. Put the car on the track in the first heat and it was good. I had some real traffic issues but I could see that I would be fine. Second and third heats I was the only guy to run 34 laps but qualified second, 1 second back. In the main I ran34 laps and finished second but had to be marshalled twice and could not make up the time. The car was fantastic and can only get better. I did not have the droop screws set so I had full suspension travel and the set up I borrowed called for a front swaybar but I did not have the time to get it on. My laptimes were consistantly a couple of tenths better than the leader and he has many more years experience and is a good driver. I cant wait to learn more about this car.....hopefully Ray and I can get this thing to the top of the A-main here in town. I have learned alot on this thread and hope to contribute to it in the near future.

1 quick question. For those of you that are running the spring steel axles......how much more do they weigh than the stock aluminum axles. Also, how are everyones screws holding up. The silver screws seem a little soft...i have good hudy wrenches so that is not the problem. Any suggetions on screw kits or anything?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

JOneser-your already at the top of the A!!! YOu need to shoot for TQ!!! This car and us working together on set-ups will really help. Its not easy being a lone gunman in a sea of Tc3's!!!! About 30 or 40 to be exact!!!!

Glad to see you posting here!!!

Ray

dtm

It's looks like a tiny fridge magnet which you stick to your ESC and is supposed to make your fets run cooler besides a host of others things.....

dtm

Hi Joneser- Welcome to Xray! If my memory serves me right the steel version is 2g heavier than the alloy (for each one). Just get it for the front...

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

ssssssshhhhh.....don't tell everyone..we have to have a secret weapon..

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Thanks.....and why only for the fronts. I have them on order but they are backordered and wont be in for a few weeks. So far that is the only fault I can find with the car....some of the parts will most likely be a pain to get. I have started collecting a stash of spares but need to get small items like clips and screws...etc.

I dont want to add too much weight to the car but 2 grams each is not that bad. My car was right at the 50 ounce limit with the heavy GP cells. I have none of the aluminum in the c-hub suspension and I did not have the front swaybar kit on yet. I have a Quantum comp speedo.....is there anyplace to reduce weight without comprimising durability? The car went together great.....so much nicer than the TC3 or anything else I have built. The only two items that I was not crazy about was the front bumper assembly had to be muscled to squeeze the bumper in there and the rear caster clips. I put 5 milimeters in the front of the rear and when I put the 4 milimeter clips in the rear it bound up the chassis. I did not have time to think so I put a 3 milimeter in there and lived with the little bit of play. Still nowhere near as much play as the tc3.

By the way, does this "secret weapon work in stock class racing"?

dtm

hahaha...

dtm

The front flanges where the retainer spring clips go on will sometimes deform in a crash with the alloy, but does not in steel. In the rear because you don't have steering this does not happen. Some people have problems with wear in the cross pin holes in the alloy ones but this is normally after quite a few packs 200+. On my original T1 the rear axles did not show any real signs of wear even after 300+ packs!

With the C-clips- they are designed so that you have to file the 4mm down to fit. I real pain I know but if done right you can get free moving A arms with 0 play!

The conversion to C hubs in alloy is lighter than the original PB suspension...I blame those heavy PBs!

Do you have the graphite upper bumper piece, or the newer plastic ones? For the grpahite one can break in a crash. Different people have different solutions for this. I double up the graphite piece and have had no problems.

Also the weakest spot on the car is the rear edge of the bottom chassis! Xray now have a new plastic rear bumper piece to protect this....if you do not have...buy it!

dtm

One other thing- unless to run foams or a really large open track, do not buy the original front roll bar kit- it is far too stiff even on the softest setting. I see that the new Evos now have the plastic upper bumper which also allow you to mount the old rear roll bars on the front- this would be a better solution.

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Well, I have the c-hub suspension on but its all plastic. I have the plastic front bumper mount that came with the c-hub conversion. I put this on because I did not want to break a graphite brace. Where are they breaking? My car came with the rear "bumper" and I did put it on. As far as the swaybar, I did buy the blade type but have not installed it. So is anyone making the blade version work? I am not obsessed with weight but I would like to get down below the limit so I have room to balance the car if needed.

dtm

The graphite upper bumper can break into lots of little pieces!

The blade type can be made to work if you dremel the width of the blade so that it is more flexible. Try it first before doing that because it is pretty permenant and those spare blades are expensive! The design is more suitable for GP cars which are heavier...most people over here have found the original blades to kill all steering sensitivity when you run them!

Joneser

iTrader: (1)

Well that looks like a waste of 30 some bucks! I dont want to lose steering...that is why I love this car.

I have noticed that my steering throw is limited by the front block hitting the arm. is this normal. I had to dial my steering down to 70 percent but it had more than enough steering. Just curious.

Now if I could only find those steel axles....Anybody have good supplier?

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

dtm and joneser-we should be able to use the blade because we only run foams on carpet and grip has been plentiful at track lately. I am going to but piano wire and balde sway bars-never-the less!! Sometimes the magic set-up is just add a front sway bar to your normal set-up and POW-it's dialed!! My chassis hits the carpet on the edges and cars got a touvch too much cut-so I know I need a front sway bar.

BHenderson

iTrader: (3)

anyone gotten their hands on the new pulleys for the layshaft that change the internal drive ratio to 1.77?? If someone has tell us if you liked/disliked the change.