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Xray T1

Old 12-31-2002, 09:32 PM
  #2221  
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Originally posted by SpeedTech
Hello X-ray racers,

We are looking into possibly adding the X-Ray line to our product line next year And I would like to hear some feedback from all of you if you guys don't mind.

Where are you guys currently ordering your spare and hop-ups for your X-ray from? and are you happy with their service?

Would you guys like to see Speed Tech R/C carrying the x-ray line in 2003?

Thank you all for your time, and Happy New Year!!!

Sincerely,

Steve Wang
Speed Tech R/C
www.speedtechrc.com
Hello Steve

The popularity of the Xray car is growing. There are numerous shops and online stores that carry Xray parts and performance hop-ups. The Xray online store is very efficient and accurate. I do recommend that Speedtech does carry the Xray car because of its growing popularity, and also to support the hobby as a whole. I am seeing more and more Xray's on the podium stand due in part to the car being ultra tunable. If you can manage a competitive price, you will have a hard time keeping the car in stock.
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Old 01-01-2003, 04:13 AM
  #2222  
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Speedtech- I absolutely love this car. It handles better than tc3 and losi once tuned correctly just like ne other car. It is easy to work on and the parts are of very high quality. I would say to order hubs,arms, arm pins, swaybars, spring kits. That should keep everyone happy.
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Old 01-01-2003, 07:18 PM
  #2223  
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Has anyone had a problem with countersunk titanium screws getting stuck to the bulkheads? I used TiR screws to mount the bulkheads to the chasis and experience a unique problem with the screws not coming out. The heads stripped out and now I can even remove one bulkhead (F or R) to change a diff. I know how to remove them, I just wanted to know if anyone else had this problem.
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Old 01-01-2003, 07:45 PM
  #2224  
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Yes this is called cold fusing. It happens with all metal to metal contacts if nothing is put in as a barrier. Even loctite will prevent this. If you do not want to use loctite, then put some grease on the screw before installing it.
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Old 01-01-2003, 08:02 PM
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Is it safe to put anti-seize (looks like a silver colored grease) before bolting it down. I was thinking of doing this, but I am not sure if the screws will suddenly loosen itself.
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Old 01-01-2003, 08:41 PM
  #2226  
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Originally posted by Trinityracinnut
Yes this is called cold fusing. It happens with all metal to metal contacts if nothing is put in as a barrier. Even loctite will prevent this. If you do not want to use loctite, then put some grease on the screw before installing it.
Thank you. Looks like I'll have a hell of a time trying to remove them.
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Old 01-02-2003, 03:52 PM
  #2227  
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Hi folks,

I'm new here & needed some opinion on the EVO2 since I am considering getting either a XXX-SG+ or a EVO2. I like the EVO2 because it is a highly engineered piece of equipment and its free drive train. Nevertheless, there are a few questions I'd like to ask:
1) Is EVO 2 durable? I cannot drive well and need a reliable car.
2) Is the plastic shock good enough? Is there a need to change to aluminium ones?
3) Can you mount side by side stick pack across the chassis instead of along the chassis?
4) Are the differentials easy to remove from the bulk head? I like XXX-S because of easy maintainence.

For your information, I will be running brushless motor with the car. Thank you in advance for any reply.
Rgds
kk
PS: I also own a TC3, M2Pro, V1RR, , HPI Micro.....
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Old 01-02-2003, 04:26 PM
  #2228  
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Originally posted by kk
Hi folks,

I'm new here & needed some opinion on the EVO2 since I am considering getting either a XXX-SG+ or a EVO2. I like the EVO2 because it is a highly engineered piece of equipment and its free drive train. Nevertheless, there are a few questions I'd like to ask:
1) Is EVO 2 durable? I cannot drive well and need a reliable car.
2) Is the plastic shock good enough? Is there a need to change to aluminium ones?
3) Can you mount side by side stick pack across the chassis instead of along the chassis?
4) Are the differentials easy to remove from the bulk head? I like XXX-S because of easy maintainence.

For your information, I will be running brushless motor with the car. Thank you in advance for any reply.
Rgds
kk
PS: I also own a TC3, M2Pro, V1RR, , HPI Micro.....
To answer your questions:
1) Yes. The durability of the Evo2 is matched only to nitro cars. The woven graphite is extremely strong and can take a beating or two. Regular graphite cars are also strong, but it is also brittle causing more breaks.
2) Yes. The plastic shocks will do just fine, however depending on the racing conditions, the plastic may deform (hot weather). They are also subject to breaking if you are hit by someone else directly on the shock body.
3) Yes. Xray has optional parts for that application.
4) No. It's not as easily removable as the XXX-S, however, you will rebuild the XXX-S differential more often because even though the XXX-S drive train is "sealed", dust and dirt still enter the belt tunnel which means the diffs also get dirty. The Evo2 differentials are sealed with two covers preventing dirt from entering the diff action.
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Old 01-02-2003, 05:08 PM
  #2229  
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Thanks RCInfinity for your comment. One more question, does the car settings go haywire after a crash? My TC3 does that all the time.. kk
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Old 01-02-2003, 06:49 PM
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yes the evo2 is very durable. i had my first real break on the evo 2 last night. i went to pass 2 slower cars at once going down the straight and collided and SLAMMED the wall hard and broke a rear arm and bend a hinge pin really well. this is a great car now that im starting to find a good set up for carpet and im liking it more every time i bring it to the track.
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Old 01-02-2003, 08:36 PM
  #2231  
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Originally posted by kk
Thanks RCInfinity for your comment. One more question, does the car settings go haywire after a crash? My TC3 does that all the time.. kk
It's always a good idea to check the settings after any type of collision. If the crash was bad enough, usually something will break first before the settings go.
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Old 01-02-2003, 09:34 PM
  #2232  
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RCInfinity... I experienced that same seizing problem with the original steel screws. I was planning to upgrade to Titanium to solve the problem. (Now I know it won't matter). Anyway, I've been using diff grease on the threads of all of the screws that thread into aluminum, and I carry an "Easy Out" just in case.
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Old 01-02-2003, 11:10 PM
  #2233  
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thats true about the shock bodies. i was hit pretty hard on the rear left shock while racing and it broke. aluminium would solve this
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Old 01-03-2003, 04:26 PM
  #2234  
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Looks like the whole National race team is going to the touring car champs.
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Old 01-04-2003, 06:44 AM
  #2235  
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Is there any personal site that contains tips and tricks for Xray cars ? I know I can just stop by teamxray.com for info, I just wanted to get owners point of view though.

Last edited by redsand; 01-04-2003 at 06:48 AM.
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