R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-22-2009, 03:54 PM   #106
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Nomack-I think the RTR components are perfect for parking lot racing. You will pick up just a smidgen of extra traction and will be hooked up better by the use of the more flexible components outside.

RCknight-I will repeat one thing I said in the introduction. I think the XXX-S is the best Open Mod touring car ever made. I do think that long single belt smooths out the mod motor just a bit to give outstanding forward traction. Mine is the best accelerating car out there. I will also repeat that on a high traction indoor track with stock motors that single belt is not quite as good as others. On outdoor tracks with stock motors, thought it has an edge on the straight and sweeper. It is easier to drive because of that long belt. Even I can make it accelerate faster than a couple of the pro drivers at our track who use the newer double deck cars. I was about .4 second off only on a 21.8 second lap time today behind a Serpent S20 with very good driver. Had we swapped cars the situation would be the same, or really, I predict a bigger difference as much as he was complaining about the lack of traction. The Losi was more hooked up. He was 30 years younger.

I dislike double deck cars including the JRXS for many reasons. I had a JRXS.
The screws always back out and get lost. Especially the T2 with the tiny 2.5 mm screws. Even the TC5 top deck shock mount screws with 3 mm screws. When you put the chassis on the surface plate a few months down the road, you find the chassis no longer flat. This included the JRXS. The TC5 was still flat. The double deck chassis has mutiple "happy places" after a hit. It does not always return to flat. Simple design changes like having a square base on the diff would prevent this torsional shifting on the JRXS. Instead it is pinned which helped little. If you can twist the car by the shock towers and hear a creak, you have a worn double plate car. It has creaked over to a new resting state. This happens quickly if you do not loktite every single screw from the get go and keep it tight. Chassis tweak usually causes poor steering in one direction.

With the XXXS you just put it together, drive it for a year and it is as flat and as good as when new. You don't loose screws because the material is not "too stiff" or too hard.

I feel I have a bit more traction with the XXX-S than with the TC5 or JRXS. Especially on my hairpin turns and in the chicane. That 10 year old tub is just a great performer outside.

Now in defense of the other cars most touring car racing is inside on carpet now. The stiffer touring cars will have an edge there. A stiffer tub chassis would be a simple thing to engineer, though. The Losi center box in the center box tube frame could just be made bigger, more uniform, and thinner. A double belt could easily be put inside. Now you would have a great carpet car for stock motors at 2/3 the price.

Changes
I don't find the swept back front arms necessary for stock or mod. Straighten the dogbones out to eliminate front wheel lift on power. This is easily accomplished right now, by just using rear pivots on the front.

Adjustability
As the new graphite plus even has adjustable Ackerman, I don't think you need any more adjustability. You don't really need four places to adjust roll center. Two places are just fine on the XXX-S.
You can already adjust kickup (not helpful for me ever)
antisquat (usually not helpful)
I have the sway bar set now. Nice.
You can adjust wheelbase, rear toe, front caster, camber, spring rate, droop. A hard bumper is available if you want a firmer droop setting. I never did. The rear toe setting is rock solid and does not change with time like a TC5 after it has compressed its shims.


Track Report G + chassis

The first pack was a little slippery, but right on the heels of our best driver. Back only about .4s. The car slid around a little more than with stiffzel, but everyone was complaining about traction so that was part of it.

Later in the session, I set my ride height up .5 mm to 6. This usually brings in a little more total grip. It worked like a charm. The Graphite plus now felt like the stiffzel chassis at 5.5 mm. This is good. During a race when grip comes up I can lower the car down.

Control while drifting with graphite seemed better, but I don't want to be drifting past the tires best grip. The ride height correction fixed this excessive drifting.

Cornering at mid corner seemed a bit stronger in spite of the poor traction. This is probably from the lighter weight.

I really liked the green belt. It makes a lot less noise. It seems fast on the straght. Braking was quiet. It was not making random pops and clicks as I approached corners. I will have to see if it holds up.

Lap times were good in spite of poor traction during the last run.

An objection to the titanium screws is the very high cost. The same weight can be obtained with about half as many aluminum screws. I agree the titanium screws are stronger than aluminum. Steel stronger than titanium.
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-22-2009 at 04:07 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 09:42 PM   #107
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: thomasville,nc
Posts: 518
Send a message via Yahoo to nomaak
Default me again

hey john i went and did it!! i bout myself a RTR XXX-S today. my pops sold it to me for $40!!! he's had a lot of handling issues over the last couple of weeks so he decided to go Schuie MI3.I tore the car down and looked it over. everything looked to be ok save for one little thing..... he bought O/S hubs instead of the standard hubs!! i've used the O/S hubs with mod/19turn carpet/foam racing, but never outdoors on asphalt.

what i'm gona do is take the rear a-arms to work and drill a new hole so i can use the O/S hubs. what's your take on this?
nomaak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 09:50 PM   #108
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nomaak View Post
hey john i went and did it!! i bout myself a RTR XXX-S today. my pops sold it to me for $40!!! he's had a lot of handling issues over the last couple of weeks so he decided to go Schuie MI3.I tore the car down and looked it over. everything looked to be ok save for one little thing..... he bought O/S hubs instead of the standard hubs!! i've used the O/S hubs with mod/19turn carpet/foam racing, but never outdoors on asphalt.

what i'm gona do is take the rear a-arms to work and drill a new hole so i can use the O/S hubs. what's your take on this?
O/S ?????
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 09:59 PM   #109
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Nomack-I think the RTR components are perfect for parking lot racing. You will pick up just a smidgen of extra traction and will be hooked up better by the use of the more flexible components outside.

RCknight-I will repeat one thing I said in the introduction. I think the XXX-S is the best Open Mod touring car ever made. I do think that long single belt smooths out the mod motor just a bit to give outstanding forward traction. Mine is the best accelerating car out there. I will also repeat that on a high traction indoor track with stock motors that single belt is not quite as good as others. On outdoor tracks with stock motors, thought it has an edge on the straight and sweeper. It is easier to drive because of that long belt. Even I can make it accelerate faster than a couple of the pro drivers at our track who use the newer double deck cars. I was about .4 second off only on a 21.8 second lap time today behind a Serpent S20 with very good driver. Had we swapped cars the situation would be the same, or really, I predict a bigger difference as much as he was complaining about the lack of traction. The Losi was more hooked up. He was 30 years younger.

I dislike double deck cars including the JRXS for many reasons. I had a JRXS.
The screws always back out and get lost. Especially the T2 with the tiny 2.5 mm screws. Even the TC5 top deck shock mount screws with 3 mm screws. When you put the chassis on the surface plate a few months down the road, you find the chassis no longer flat. This included the JRXS. The TC5 was still flat. The double deck chassis has mutiple "happy places" after a hit. It does not always return to flat. Simple design changes like having a square base on the diff would prevent this torsional shifting on the JRXS. Instead it is pinned which helped little. If you can twist the car by the shock towers and hear a creak, you have a worn double plate car. It has creaked over to a new resting state. This happens quickly if you do not loktite every single screw from the get go and keep it tight. Chassis tweak usually causes poor steering in one direction.

With the XXXS you just put it together, drive it for a year and it is as flat and as good as when new. You don't loose screws because the material is not "too stiff" or too hard.

I feel I have a bit more traction with the XXX-S than with the TC5 or JRXS. Especially on my hairpin turns and in the chicane. That 10 year old tub is just a great performer outside.

Now in defense of the other cars most touring car racing is inside on carpet now. The stiffer touring cars will have an edge there. A stiffer tub chassis would be a simple thing to engineer, though. The Losi center box in the center box tube frame could just be made bigger, more uniform, and thinner. A double belt could easily be put inside. Now you would have a great carpet car for stock motors at 2/3 the price.

Changes
I don't find the swept back front arms necessary for stock or mod. Straighten the dogbones out to eliminate front wheel lift on power. This is easily accomplished right now, by just using rear pivots on the front.

Adjustability
As the new graphite plus even has adjustable Ackerman, I don't think you need any more adjustability. You don't really need four places to adjust roll center. Two places are just fine on the XXX-S.
You can already adjust kickup (not helpful for me ever)
antisquat (usually not helpful)
I have the sway bar set now. Nice.
You can adjust wheelbase, rear toe, front caster, camber, spring rate, droop. A hard bumper is available if you want a firmer droop setting. I never did. The rear toe setting is rock solid and does not change with time like a TC5 after it has compressed its shims.


Track Report G + chassis

The first pack was a little slippery, but right on the heels of our best driver. Back only about .4s. The car slid around a little more than with stiffzel, but everyone was complaining about traction so that was part of it.

Later in the session, I set my ride height up .5 mm to 6. This usually brings in a little more total grip. It worked like a charm. The Graphite plus now felt like the stiffzel chassis at 5.5 mm. This is good. During a race when grip comes up I can lower the car down.

Control while drifting with graphite seemed better, but I don't want to be drifting past the tires best grip. The ride height correction fixed this excessive drifting.

Cornering at mid corner seemed a bit stronger in spite of the poor traction. This is probably from the lighter weight.

I really liked the green belt. It makes a lot less noise. It seems fast on the straght. Braking was quiet. It was not making random pops and clicks as I approached corners. I will have to see if it holds up.

Lap times were good in spite of poor traction during the last run.

An objection to the titanium screws is the very high cost. The same weight can be obtained with about half as many aluminum screws. I agree the titanium screws are stronger than aluminum. Steel stronger than titanium.

nice going John

one thing that I wanted to add for us east cost racers or ppl who dont racr at 90deg over temp every day is, that stiff bumper you mentioned help very little on holding droops in places and worst part is it can crack on 1st crash

few outdoor tracks around me have nice round zebra zone barriers ( I think that s what John Stranaham's track is made of) but most of indoor or east coast track still favor ply wood or CRC click metal solid barriers, with those barriers stiff bumber won't last long and again that droops having forever flexing problem.

to make it short, IMO for cold weather racers stay with a stock bumper and adjust your drrop with shock shaft length.
__________________
SweepRacingUSA.com 2014 &2015 US. NATIONAL CHAMPION!
10th Buggy F1 TC 8th Buggy 8th Truggy GT8 M-Chassis Monster Truck(SRC) Bodies&Wings
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2009, 10:05 PM   #110
Company Representative
 
SweepRacingUSA's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: www.SweepRacingUSA.com
Posts: 1,690
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
O/S ?????
Offset such as LOSA9869
__________________
SweepRacingUSA.com 2014 &2015 US. NATIONAL CHAMPION!
10th Buggy F1 TC 8th Buggy 8th Truggy GT8 M-Chassis Monster Truck(SRC) Bodies&Wings
SweepRacingUSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 09:06 AM   #111
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Thanks for the posts guys.

My barriers are stacked 2 x 4 wood with 4 x 4 concrete ends, to hold them in place on top of 1/2 inch rubber. The very ends do have extremely good working flappers made from 1/2 inch thick tough plastic skinned foam board that is purchased in 4 x 8 foot sheets from a plastics company on the west coast. The predominant cars are Nitro 1/10 and 1/8 scale. I have broken 3 arms now on very hard hits to the flappers at very high speed (50 mph). I am very satisfied with the RTR strength on C-hubs. Arms are easier to change. The stock bumper is OK with plenty of hits to the flappers.

Thanks on the bumper breakage report. I shall stick to soft as well. I personally think that limits to suspension movement should all be soft so that tires are not given a shock load during hard roll. An inside the shock bushing is also good as it is cushioned by shock oil squeezed out of the contact area.

Offset Hubs. I have not tried putting on offset hubs. I am getting such good handling that I don't even have an interest in getting them. From the pictures it looks like they just add to the wheel base. We have a report early in this thread on adding length to the wheelbase at the rear. It was not good. I would only add these long after I got a good simple setup working

Setting up a used car
Nomaak-Good luck. Here are some tips.
If you buy a used car like I just did try this. A simple setup works great on this car.

Check the pulleys make sure they are the same size, same number of teeth.

Set rear toe to 2.5 degree with a pair of JRXS .5 degree hubs.

Outdoors use at least the Losi low roll center blocks or trim .075 off a set of high roll center blocks. Make the inner hinge pins level front and back. You may need to buy a hinge pin pivot block set. Note that I prefer the Matt Francis height blocks at .150 inches under stock. These require mods to the chassis and droop bosses on the bumpers and also you need shorter droop screws (it is well worth the trouble),

Now put in a ball diff front and rear and set the roll stiffness at the next track session. You want the car to grip well, but you don't want it so soft that it is sloppy in the handling. I like blue (14.5 lb/in) springs front and back all the way in.

Adjust your oversteer Understeer balance while you are setting roll stiffness. Both Losi XXSs I have owned liked the same color spring front and back after I drove it a while. Go stiffer in the front to kill front traction and prevent oversteer. I don't like my car to oversteer much. Save oversteer for the pros.

Now put in the JRXS "clutch" pulley to lock the front diff if you like. Adjust front or rear springs out to prevent oversteer. You won't know which one till you try it.

Adjust pin angle (optional) if you think it will prevent a certain problem. Don't go the mystical it should do this or that. If it does not help you, get rid of it. You almost never need pin angle. It almost always hurts you through the bumps.

Later on try a 0 and a 4 degree c-hub from the JRXS to see if you gain mid corner steering with the higher caster. Make sure it does not kick the rear end out.

Start at 6 mm. Go lower to kill some traction.

For carpet you want the Matt Francis height low roll center blocks. These are .150 inch lower than stock and put the roll center near the ground where I like it. Go up at least one spring size. Add thick Sway bars front and back. Test for traction roll. If it does, go with stiffer springs. Start at 5 mm.

Much later on. If you are having trouble in a chicane try that rear upper camber link both short and long. Short gives you more negative camber gain with roll (should be slightly more rear cornering traction). Long might make the car more nimble.


pic-our track and dividers. The white rubber curbing is removed for now.
Attached Thumbnails
LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-2-mikes-gulf-coast-raceway-road-track-c.jpg  
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-24-2009 at 09:30 AM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 06:15 PM   #112
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: thomasville,nc
Posts: 518
Send a message via Yahoo to nomaak
Default

preeshate it john. ya the car is in GOOD shape! just got home from work.....did my usuall run-down of the chassis. no issues sept for a bent steel dogbone (easy fix at work). i also shaved .147" off the front and rear blocks. gona check for hinge "levelness". all the bearings are gona get de-sealed and soaked in denatured alcohol overnite. then i'll lube 'em with something slick. once i figure out the offset i'm gone mark it an drill new holes for my O/S hubs. (have a ton of em.. might as well use 'em!!)

from what i read in RC-Car, March 04...todd H says the offset frees the car up more in carpet foam. says the standard hubs makes the car "too hooked up". perhaps it can help my car rotate better when using a spool (UGH!!! hate spools!!)

oh and this will be the first time i've run an X with the stock shocks as i've almost ALWAYS ran plastic HPI or Xrays.
nomaak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 09:27 PM   #113
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

You are on carpet then. The last thing I need on asphalt is to free up the rear end. Thanks for the post. Good luck.
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2009, 10:03 PM   #114
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: thomasville,nc
Posts: 518
Send a message via Yahoo to nomaak
Default

oh no, no ,no...no carpet....not yet at least. we're still playing on old/low grip asphalt. so far the HPI Pro 3 i'm running is king there but i feel i have a much better car now. and for $40 what have i lost!!!

evn if i cant get it as fast as in the old days....it simply feels good to hav a rig of my own so now i have batts again....servo...Tx..RX...chassis with all the trimmins and then some. my greatest hurdle is in the ESC department. i just dont know what to get.
nomaak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 12:27 AM   #115
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Its best to get a premium speed control even for stock. The on resistance is the value to check. Get one with low on resistance. Both Novak and CRC are in the market with new speed controls. Tekin RSPro and LRP SXX are good and compact for stock but not very good for mod.

You stole that car for $40. Should be a cinch getting it up to old speeds.

Aluminum Bones
I was fortunate that my used car came with 4 old aluminum bones with worn holes and two new Aluminum boned drive axles on the rear of the car. My nephew, James, redrilled the bones for me tonight. Here are a couple of the rebuilt bones, one rebuilt one on the car itself and a new one showing holes every sixty degrees sitting on the battery. Also note the wear in the bad hole of the repaired bone.

A couple of ways to redrill these. First you must make 6 separate setups and 4 new holes. Don't expect to get two accurate holes from one pass by going all the way through the second side of the bell.

Use the V attachment on a combination square to scribe a line across the diameter on the end of the bell. Darken it with black sharpie first. Make two sets of lines approximately 60 degrees apart. Use these lines to center punch the new holes on the outside rim. Drill with a center drill, then through drill 1/16". After all four new holes are drilled now pass the drill again all the way through each pair to give it a final alignment and open them up slightly. Use the old pins if they are a snug in the new holes. Cut new pins from 1/16 piano wire.

Alternatively and the way we did it was to use the rotary table with a drill chuck on an arbor at its middle. Align everything by using a 3 inch length of 1/16 inch piano wire through the worn pair of holes. Tighten the drill chuck. now remove the piano wire and drill every 60 degrees except at the worn holes. first use the center drill then through drill with a 1/16 inch bit.

We created $100 worth of usable bones in about 30 minutes.

I put two on the car and lost .2 ounces. That's huge. It will also come off the rotating mass causing a visible increase in acceleration. Sometimes it is too much with mod motors. At our track it is probably OK as the track is very long.

Click on the pic a second time to blow it up and see the CVD pin in the new hole on the mounted drive axle.
Attached Thumbnails
LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-aluminum-bones-002.jpg  
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 04:21 AM   #116
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: thomasville,nc
Posts: 518
Send a message via Yahoo to nomaak
Default rear a-arms

i see you have the rear arms with the offset option. tell me, how far apart are those holes on center. my "guestimation" was about .150"
nomaak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 09:28 AM   #117
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

.080 inch ID holes spaced .160 inches center to center. Measure the pin to get a better hole ID.
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-24-2009, 05:51 PM   #118
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: thomasville,nc
Posts: 518
Send a message via Yahoo to nomaak
Default

got it. have you noticed how the arms have such a handy little seam perfectly along the center.
nomaak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 03:12 PM   #119
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 3,777
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to John Stranahan
Default

Track Test
I tested the new 4 degree caster blocks. I was pleased. I got just a little more mid corner steering. I was easier to do the two high speed hairpins without pushing wide of the mark. These are a keeper.

I will add it to my posted setup for Outdoor Asphalt

The rear lightened axles added a just perceptible added quickness right out of the corner on first throttle roll on. This is a good place to go faster as improvements in slow areas of the track are more helpful to low laptimes.

I posted these links earlier to some hopups.
GPM Red Aluminum Shocks
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=2862&brand=Team Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

Aluminum Wheel Hex
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA9687

Locked Diff Pulley, standard 42 tooth XXX-S, JRXS
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA3325

Aluminum Motor Clamp
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=3445&brand=Team Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

I'll note that two of these were to a Hong Kong dealer AsiaTees. It took 15 days for that order to arrive and then it was what I will call messed up. I did use the blue aluminum motor mount clamp by cutting most of it away to save weight. See the pic. The shocks only shipped two, I ordered four. the shock rebuild kits were replaced by an equal value of shock bladders. I don't really need a dozen bladders. Anyway beware. The shocks were also on the heavy side with huge aluminum hex caps.
Attached Thumbnails
LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-motor-clamp-002.jpg  
__________________
JohnStranahan@aol.com
TeamCRC.com Mikes-HobbyShop.com

Last edited by John Stranahan; 11-25-2009 at 03:39 PM.
John Stranahan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-25-2009, 04:16 PM   #120
Tech Addict
 
paraletic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: ADELAIDE
Posts: 553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I got an idea for the front spool set up which ive been running in stock (17.5) class for a while without any dramas
not sure how it will be in mod etc but mite be an idea
When building the front spool it says 2 still use the 2 bearings in the diff, instead i replaced these with 2 plastic bushings from an RTR steering rack (little black plastc ones)
saved a bit of weight there for rotational mass.
and sein the diff is virtually locked i cant see it bein a prob.
would like 2 work out a way of removing th e bevel washers an thrust bearing too and just bolt the diff together mite save more weight there for quicker corner exit acceleration etc
__________________
Losi XXX-S G+..................Tamiya M03.......................TOP Photon
Losi XXX-4 G+.................HoBao ST Pro electric........Losi Micro SCT
Losi XXX-CR....................Losi Mini Baja.....................Losi XX-4 W/E
ASSociated RC12L4
T.O.P PHOTON EX & Tamiya M05 - currently undergoing rigorous crash testing!
paraletic is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:29 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0