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Old 11-04-2009, 10:25 PM   #76
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Paraletic-Thanks. I am running the RTR body. We may actually get a Protoform into the shop tomorrow. That would be just the ticket. Probably this one.

http://www.prolineracing.com/product...dy-393-53.html
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Old 11-05-2009, 12:43 AM   #77
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Paraletic-Thanks. I am running the RTR body. We may actually get a Protoform into the shop tomorrow. That would be just the ticket. Probably this one.

http://www.prolineracing.com/product...dy-393-53.html


no probs John.

yea i tried the LTC-R found it had a fair amount of steering fairly agressive for me, im currently running a mazda speed 6 and experimenting with the alpha losi body rtr
Im about too paint up a Dodge stratus 3.0 too try aswell

I found the Losi RTR body weighed approx 130 grams
compared too the protoform bodies at just over 100 grams, and as ya prob know air brushing ya bodies is meant too be lighter than rattle cans. (but im no good at air brushing lol) so mine are all done with tamiya rattle cans
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Old 11-06-2009, 05:07 PM   #78
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Race Report, Gulf coast Grand Prix
First and Second Round of Qualifiers are complete. I thought I would post a report as it won't get any better than this for me.

We had only 6 mod TC drivers pony up the big bucks to run the Grand Prix. 2 more may show on the weekend. Now these are all very experienced racers and with a good car can all beat me. But you need a good car in race conditions. Here is how the qualifiers went.

The first round I ran the LRP X 12 4.0 and Tekin RS Pro. I was geared fairly tall 90/26 x 1.83, but had no problems in open practice the day before with lots of traffic on the track. Well each day, of a big race like this, traction accumulates a little. There were 40 Nitro cars running as well in 16 additional heats. I had a good start, and run, and then at about 2:00 minutes one of the front runners thermalled with a Tekin RS Pro. Well that was good for me overall as we were neck and neck the last race and he would have to gear down at least a tooth. Then I thermalled at 4:30 or so and sat stationary for 20 seconds while the Tekin RS pro cooled. It started back up and I finished 3rd. The short wires did not help my situation.

I said "to heck with that" and put on my good stuff. This was the Tekin R8, the LRP X12 3.5 geared hellatiously tall at 90/22 x 1.83. I gave it a quick test between rounds and it looked good. I had enough traction that early corner exit acceleration that was missing was now there. I ran it in the second qualifier. I finished first in this qualifier as the leader broke down. My car ran good and never thermalled and held off the next place in a dual later in the race. I improved my qualifying to second place based on the announcers time. I am very close to third place though. I was king of the hill for a heat anyway. An old fart driving and old design. Sorex RP 40's with Traction Action. Air temp 71. track temp 100+.

So what did I touch. I moved the inner battery support to the outer holes established previously for the R8. I tightened the spool maybe 1/10 turn right at the start. I reset tweak after the electronics change on the tweak station. I changed no settings. No breakages, no wear to report. No new body available.

Paul Lemieux had fast laps with his 1/10 Nitro. Robert Rocha equaled them with a Serpent electric touring car, and that is the state of my competition.
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:27 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Race Report, Gulf coast Grand Prix
First and Second Round of Qualifiers are complete. I thought I would post a report as it won't get any better than this for me.

We had only 6 mod TC drivers pony up the big bucks to run the Grand Prix. 2 more may show on the weekend. Now these are all very experienced racers and with a good car can all beat me. But you need a good car in race conditions. Here is how the qualifiers went.

The first round I ran the LRP X 12 4.0 and Tekin RS Pro. I was geared fairly tall 90/26 x 1.83, but had no problems in open practice the day before with lots of traffic on the track. Well each day, of a big race like this, traction accumulates a little. There were 40 Nitro cars running as well in 16 additional heats. I had a good start, and run, and then at about 2:00 minutes one of the front runners thermalled with a Tekin RS Pro. Well that was good for me overall as we were neck and neck the last race and he would have to gear down at least a tooth. Then I thermalled at 4:30 or so and sat stationary for 20 seconds while the Tekin RS pro cooled. It started back up and I finished 3rd. The short wires did not help my situation.

I said "to heck with that" and put on my good stuff. This was the Tekin R8, the LRP X12 3.5 geared hellatiously tall at 90/22 x 1.83. I gave it a quick test between rounds and it looked good. I had enough traction that early corner exit acceleration that was missing was now there. I ran it in the second qualifier. I finished first in this qualifier as the leader broke down. My car ran good and never thermalled and held off the next place in a dual later in the race. I improved my qualifying to second place based on the announcers time. I am very close to third place though. I was king of the hill for a heat anyway. An old fart driving and old design. Sorex RP 40's with Traction Action. Air temp 71. track temp 100+.

So what did I touch. I moved the inner battery support to the outer holes established previously for the R8. I tightened the spool maybe 1/10 turn right at the start. I reset tweak after the electronics change on the tweak station. I changed no settings. No breakages, no wear to report. No new body available.

Paul Lemieux had fast laps with his 1/10 Nitro. Robert Rocha equaled them with a Serpent electric touring car, and that is the state of my competition.
Nice work John what sort of lap times are you doing around that track ?
also just wondering what brand/type of other cars you are running against?
Thanks Rob
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Old 11-06-2009, 08:18 PM   #80
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I'll study lap times some more tomorrow. I am running low 20s laps. There may be some of mine faster. The leader is running mid to high 18's.
Serpent leader
Loxi XXX-s myself
X-ray T2
Tamiya 414
X-ray T2R
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Old 11-07-2009, 10:51 AM   #81
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Thanks Again for your efforts.
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I am running an XXX-S +G 13.5 GTB 3200mah Lipo. I have a complete XXX-S 27 turn lipo as a backup and enough parts to make a third XXX-S.
I have decided to continue to run this car until I run out of replacement parts.
My driving is so marginal that a new chassis wouldn't make that much difference over all. Also the minimum weight requirements make the XXX-S weight less of a negative when comparing it with newer cars.
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On thing I was wondering. Given your focus/interest/passion/ and your expenditure of time and money on the XXX-S platform-Why don't you just go on E-Bay an buy one of the many used XXX-S +G [Graphite] rollers equipped with a black belt upgrade. They typically go for $75-$100. My thought is if you really wanted to max out the potential of this platform you would want to start with the last best version/refinement which was still winning national races circa 2004.
I have seen comments about the benefit of the stiffzel chassis over the graphite but ultimately the significantly lower weight (particularly of the main chassis) itself. I am not sure of the benefits of the other graphite pieces but the weight difference of the main chassis is significant. The other common mod I have seen are woven graphite after-market shock towers.

One other thing which has been helpful for sloppy drivers like myself is modifying the front bumper with a brace and slightly wider bumper, which seems to significantly (for me) reduce front suspension breakage.
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Old 11-07-2009, 11:17 AM   #82
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Good points but I think you'll find John's answer to be that even though the G+ may have a weight advantage, the potential performance advantage due to the LACK of stiffness with the stiffzell chassis is more important. The G+ is known to be stiff as a brick...maybe good for mod carpet but not so good for asphalt, concrete or even carpet with lesser traction. I myself have 3 G+ cars and run on asphalt and concrete. I have 1 stiffzell chassis and I'll be giving it a try. As a fellow Sportsman class racer I can also say I'll be giving the Stiffzell arms a try. I realized after my last race just how fragile the graphite parts are. After many accidents and no breakage it took 1 small bump against a pvc rail to shatter an arm. It was a new one but obviously whatever load was placed on it was enough to break it. The nature of the beast I suppose.
Good luck with your driving. Like you I still believe the xxxs is a great patform.
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Old 11-07-2009, 02:38 PM   #83
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What is the stifzell chassis? I've never herd of that, sounds like there is stifzell arms too?

Whats a good chassis for asphalt?
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Old 11-07-2009, 05:35 PM   #84
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There are two series of parts (maybe 3 with the RTR). One is plain injected molded plastic nicknamed Siffzell for "stiff as hell". A second series came later which had chopped graphite fibers in the mix. I did a torsional stiffness test on the two and the Graphite plus (chopped graphite in stiffzel) was about 30% stiffer. Stiffer is good for carpet and high traction conditions. I liked it on indoor asphalt. More limber might be better on poorer traction asphalt. The graphite plus is lighter, but some of this is do to aggressive cutouts in the main chassis. I made these on my Stiffzell chassis to lighten them up.

My intent was to buy the more limber chassis. I wanted the flex. I had a fairly stiff car in the original TC5. I am also getting away from more delicate designs twin chassis plate designs.

Race Report, Day two of qualifying
We had a grueling set of 5 qualifiers with high traction and 105F track temp. Mine was the only car to finish 5 heats. I won two more qualifiers and finished second in a third. Only a half lap back from the two "pro's" in overall qualifying. I feel in the leaders hands, his times would have been improved due to the superior motor performance and good chassis performance of the XXX-S.

here were some problems in today's set of 3 qualifiers

X-ray T2, Rear diff did not survive 3.5 use in 3 of 5 races. Broke rod end in one.
Serpent, Rear gear diff shredded outdrives right and left. Broke rear belt under 4.5 use. DNF four times.
X-ray T2, Tekin RS pro desoldered under 4.5 use
Tamiya 414, good chassis but Tekin RS Pro thermalled in five straight heats with two different motors.
Losi XXX-S (mine) no chassis problems, had a bead come partially unglued in heat four but finished second. Tekin RX8 worked like a champ. The car was ballistic.
Another T2 lost 7 screws in prerace practice, then the left front bulkhead and A-arm securing screws were pretzelled in a crash.

All of these diff related problems had not surfaced during club races.

Only speed controls cruising through 6 minutes. The LRP TC edition (pre SXX), and Tekin RX8. Motor temps were good with both.

My best heat was the first today. I started by lowering the car to 5 mm to compensate for additional traction. This was perfect as the car felt the same as yesterday, but the better traction led to .5 seconds better lap times and my best finish on the same lap as the leaders.
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Old 11-07-2009, 07:12 PM   #85
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Great stuff John!!

Good too hear the XXXS is going well and no elec probs for u
obviously a well set up package

So what sort of maintenence are you doing between races?
I know here that most the mod guys atleast rebuild diffs every race (5min races here) but none run losi
I don't rebuild my diff very often in stock class as it usually feels jus as good after 3 or 4 whole club meets as it does when new (think it's the sealed drive line)

cheers Rob
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Old 11-07-2009, 08:48 PM   #86
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Rob-one thing I have done is adjust the diff tensions front and back. I also rechecked tweak after the ride height change. I reglued the tires after race 4. I slightly tightened the belt. The sealed driveline probably does help the diff life. We are racing 6 minute heats and main. 6 minutes to go.
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Old 11-08-2009, 12:30 PM   #87
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I am running the xxx-s in the VTA. I am fairly new to TC racing. I was wondering if the low roll center pivot blocks would help with my traction rolling? I am still working on the setup of the car but was wondering if that was a good direction to go in.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:32 PM   #88
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The low roll centers should help prevent traction rolls by preventing the "suspension jacking" up in the corners. You should combine this with stiff springs and sway bars to have a high roll stiffness and promote sliding.

The XXX-S came in second in the big race. We started 7 guys in the main. It was only 62 F and cloudy this morning so I softened tires to Sorex 36R. This was a mistake with the 3.5 motor and my lap times were off. The XXX-s made the 6 heats with no damage except to the one tire bead.
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Old 11-08-2009, 06:45 PM   #89
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Thanks John
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:01 PM   #90
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Can somebody with a xxxs please measure the centre to centre distance of the diffs on a xxxs.
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