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Old 02-23-2015, 12:19 PM   #871
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I messed with the low roll center blocks my first week and an half after reading so much about them on this site. Paid all the money and then more off ebay for the MF front and rear blocks. That was the only way my droop screws would even touch the arms. The car never felt right, so I decided to go back to the stock set up from the manual. This helped a lot, but raising the arms back up to high roll center lifted them away from the droop screws. Seems like the only droop I can achieve is about 6.

I'm on a very tight track of around 65/70 x 40. High bite carpet.

There is a set of acer ceramic bearings on ebay for $69. I'm tempted..... but that's a good chunk for something like that.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:10 PM   #872
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Buy Avid, they are only $1 each. Their website has listings for all cars with bearing sizes or you can get them off the manual. Shipping is quick, order the ones with the yellow covers.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:43 PM   #873
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Buy Avid, they are only $1 each. Their website has listings for all cars with bearing sizes or you can get them off the manual. Shipping is quick, order the ones with the yellow covers.
Awesome. I'll look into that. Thanks a ton!
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:45 PM   #874
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I messed with the low roll center blocks my first week and an half after reading so much about them on this site. Paid all the money and then more off ebay for the MF front and rear blocks. That was the only way my droop screws would even touch the arms. The car never felt right, so I decided to go back to the stock set up from the manual. This helped a lot, but raising the arms back up to high roll center lifted them away from the droop screws. Seems like the only droop I can achieve is about 6.

I'm on a very tight track of around 65/70 x 40. High bite carpet.

There is a set of acer ceramic bearings on ebay for $69. I'm tempted..... but that's a good chunk for something like that.
Why not get longer droop screws, they're just 4/40 grub screws you can get at any hobby shop.
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Old 02-23-2015, 01:51 PM   #875
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I get the avid bearings with the yellow shield on one side and metal on the other. Put the metal shielded side to the inside of the hubs and diff holders. But avid bearings are great. Mine last 4-5 race days before the hub bearings get gritty. Pull the teflon (yellow) shielded side blast with some motor cleaner from metal shielded side, or put some motor cleaner in a small container with a few bearings, shake for about 30 seconds and good as new. Never had a problem with the larger diff carrier bearings.
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Old 02-23-2015, 02:16 PM   #876
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I just soaked my stock bearings in motor cleaner over night last Friday. Re-oiled with a quality oil. Made a huge difference going by the ol "spin with the fingers" test. Haven't run the car yet.

These avid bearings, the cheaper $1.00 type... they're that much better than stock?
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Old 02-23-2015, 09:17 PM   #877
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http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b169358695

Look what I found...
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:21 AM   #878
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Nice. I'd be all over that if the car were in the US. Great price.



Took 1st last night. Car is handling great. I've come to believe that battery power is my largest draw back at this point. Three of my 1800 packs suck... bad. However, I was still 3 full tenths on over all average faster than last week. 4 of the 9 cars were running Lipo's.

We race on Wednesday nights, too. I won't change the car for that run, but Friday I'm going to go practice and see what stiffening my springs and oil does. Seems like every set up I see posted is much stiffer than what the manual suggests. I haven't tried that yet. I also bought a third car and a large box (14 pounds all together) of parts that should be here tomorrow. It's a g+ car. I might mess with that Friday, too.
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:34 AM   #879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostTown View Post
I just soaked my stock bearings in motor cleaner over night last Friday. Re-oiled with a quality oil. Made a huge difference going by the ol "spin with the fingers" test. Haven't run the car yet.

These avid bearings, the cheaper $1.00 type... they're that much better than stock?
Comparable or a tic better and much cheaper.
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Old 02-24-2015, 03:49 PM   #880
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When will the spur adapter be ready for purchase?
I should be machining a batch end of next week.
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Old 02-24-2015, 05:21 PM   #881
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I should be machining a batch end of next week.
I can't wait
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:41 PM   #882
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Three of my 1800 packs suck... bad. However, I was still 3 full tenths on over all average faster than last week. 4 of the 9 cars were running Lipo's.
If you are running NiMH batteries and your competition is not, you are at a serious disadvantage. LiPo packs will make your car significantly faster. Big difference between 7.2 volts versus 7.4.
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Old 02-24-2015, 07:04 PM   #883
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If you are running NiMH batteries and your competition is not, you are at a serious disadvantage. LiPo packs will make your car significantly faster. Big difference between 7.2 volts versus 7.4.
The class spec requires 1800 nicads. I'm running 1800 nicads. Rules seem to be rather loosely applied when the guys from the next town over show up. I'm running 1800 nicads, per the rules.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:20 AM   #884
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I should be machining a batch end of next week.
Thank you
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:00 PM   #885
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Tested in front of house, worked great, was planning to race test today RAIN!!!!! <<<

====

Sanding disk p180
B4 slipper pad
B4 spur 84t

Wanted a spur option other than what Losi has to offer. Did NOT have the spur adapter.

Having done the file card spooler to the front diff, got to thinking!! Don't remember who on here shared the "file card" spooler tip, THANKS!!!

Looked thru the parts box and came out with a XXX4 spur gear mount. A bit of Uni-Biting a AE B4 84t spur (top gear in picture) to adjust the center hole of the spur to fit the XXX4 mount.

Using the AE B4 slipper pad to make "spooler pads" out of the P180 grit sanding disk. The sanding disk is sticky on one side to keep it on a sander pad. The sticky side will be used to hold these to the slipper disk, sand side to the spur.

Stick the slipper pad to sanding disk and cut around disk, mark the center hole (used a pen) and cut that out, do two.

The B4 spur (bottom spur in picture) has a flange to hold the slipper in place, carefully removed these with a X-Acto knife.

===

Any spur should work IF the body is smooth, the gear for a TC4 didn't work!!! Tried that first.

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