R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-22-2015, 08:09 PM   #856
Tech Regular
 
Larcor69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Flint, Mi. Go Blue,wings,lions
Posts: 402
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

glad to see the interest in these awesome rides, I have a like new G+ but have been afraid to race it due to parts, looking like I may have no need to worry!!
__________________
TLR, FUTABA, BLAZER MARINE, VOODOO PROPS.
Larcor69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 06:05 AM   #857
Tech Regular
 
mthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I ran mine in VTA for the first time yesterday and the homemade gear adapter worked perfectly. The car did hop alot yesterday through the turns and although I changed the droop a bit and it helped, I could ot get rid of it all. Is everyone using the MF setup?
__________________
Even your Gameface is ugly!
Team Losi Racing
Horizon Hobby
B-Fast Diff's
Calandra Racing Concepts
mthomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 06:23 AM   #858
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

In VTA, I'm running close to the box stock set up with a non-graphite chassis. My only changes are:

45 wt shock oil front and back
red spring in the back

Car handles well (slight push), but some of my concerns are left/right weight balance. Until I get some scales I can't be sure how far it's off, but the left side with the motor, ESC, servo, and receiver seems a lot heavier. My right side tires are wearing a lot faster than the left, with visible rubber dust on the right hand inside of the body after each run. The track is about 80% right hand turns.

Think the diffs are unloading causing the inside tires to spin front and back?
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 07:25 AM   #859
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

Also, I'm really trying to decrease my chassis roll resistance as I'm getting killed in the open sections of the track. I've blasted the old bearings out and re-oiled them. Switching to aluminum cvds (once they arrive from the UK...). And trying to think of other ways to achieve better acceleration and top end.

Schumacher Mi1's are pulling much harder than I am.

I know about clipping every other tooth off the belt but I haven't had the courage to do that yet. I'm running an older belt, as the new belts seem so stiff. Does clipping teeth make a significant enough difference to make the risk of extra belt wear worth it?

My current belt tension is loose enough that there is some arch between the rear pulley and spur pulley. I don't have enough brake dialed in to cause any skipping since I'm in a slow, wide open throttle class. Any looser would cause the belt to drag on the bottom.

Also, I'm on page 200 of the original XXX-S thread, and have read this thread and the Stock thread a few times over, so I'm pretty much caught up on most things.
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 07:37 AM   #860
Tech Master
 
skater-deez1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mechanicsburg,Pa
Posts: 1,704
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Questions??

Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostTown View Post
Also, I'm really trying to decrease my chassis roll resistance as I'm getting killed in the open sections of the track. I've blasted the old bearings out and re-oiled them. Switching to aluminum cvds (once they arrive from the UK...). And trying to think of other ways to achieve better acceleration and top end.

Schumacher Mi1's are pulling much harder than I am.

I know about clipping every other tooth off the belt but I haven't had the courage to do that yet. I'm running an older belt, as the new belts seem so stiff. Does clipping teeth make a significant enough difference to make the risk of extra belt wear worth it?

My current belt tension is loose enough that there is some arch between the rear pulley and spur pulley. I don't have enough brake dialed in to cause any skipping since I'm in a slow, wide open throttle class. Any looser would cause the belt to drag on the bottom.

Also, I'm on page 200 of the original XXX-S thread, and have read this thread and the Stock thread a few times over, so I'm pretty much caught up on most things.
What motor and fdr? You shouldn't be getting pulled by anyone if geared correctly. Also make sure the center pulley/spur set up isn't pinched by the chassis, it should spin free.
__________________
Going nowhere fast since 1973!
skater-deez1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 07:41 AM   #861
Tech Master
 
skater-deez1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mechanicsburg,Pa
Posts: 1,704
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Exclamation

Also for anyone whose interested I have a G+ roller and some parts I'm getting rid of to lessen the amount of stuff I have sitting around. Pm me if interested.
__________________
Going nowhere fast since 1973!
skater-deez1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 07:55 AM   #862
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

Right now it's silver can with 1800 nicads, similar to the TT01 class until all the guys buy the correct spec ESC/Motor for a true VTA. But we are running VTA bodies and tires.

I don't want to be one of those guys who responds with "I know" because then people to don't want to help the guy later on.... but I have made sure of that the spur isn't getting pinched. Evoracer was very forward about making sure people weren't over tightening the spur screws earlier in this thread, and the stock thread as well, so I've made sure to double check that often.

With the stock 1.83 internal ratio, I'm running the stock 88 spur with a 26 tooth pinion. 48 pitch of course. So, I'm running 6.19.
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 07:58 AM   #863
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,390
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostTown View Post
Also, I'm really trying to decrease my chassis roll resistance as I'm getting killed in the open sections of the track. I've blasted the old bearings out and re-oiled them. Switching to aluminum cvds (once they arrive from the UK...). And trying to think of other ways to achieve better acceleration and top end.

Schumacher Mi1's are pulling much harder than I am.

I know about clipping every other tooth off the belt but I haven't had the courage to do that yet. I'm running an older belt, as the new belts seem so stiff. Does clipping teeth make a significant enough difference to make the risk of extra belt wear worth it?

My current belt tension is loose enough that there is some arch between the rear pulley and spur pulley. I don't have enough brake dialed in to cause any skipping since I'm in a slow, wide open throttle class. Any looser would cause the belt to drag on the bottom.

Also, I'm on page 200 of the original XXX-S thread, and have read this thread and the Stock thread a few times over, so I'm pretty much caught up on most things.
Good to hear that your home made adapter worked. As far as getting pulled out of the corners, maybe a front spool would help. I have built one out of diff parts and pinned the two halfs together, just haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I think it will give better pull out of the corners. (Maybe, lol)
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
EMR Factory LLC
AWESOME Graphics
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 08:11 AM   #864
Tech Master
 
skater-deez1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mechanicsburg,Pa
Posts: 1,704
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Questions??

Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostTown View Post
Right now it's silver can with 1800 nicads, similar to the TT01 class until all the guys buy the correct spec ESC/Motor for a true VTA. But we are running VTA bodies and tires.

I don't want to be one of those guys who responds with "I know" because then people to don't want to help the guy later on.... but I have made sure of that the spur isn't getting pinched. Evoracer was very forward about making sure people weren't over tightening the spur screws earlier in this thread, and the stock thread as well, so I've made sure to double check that often.

With the stock 1.83 internal ratio, I'm running the stock 88 spur with a 26 tooth pinion. 48 pitch of course. So, I'm running 6.19.
It's cool I just like to start with the obvious pitfalls first, not really sure but the silver cans are just a slight bit slower than a 21.5 motor which the fdr would be in the 3.0-3.5 area so just a guess and I'm sure others on here would know more than I but I'd say you're geared too much towards the low end. Do you have good acceleration in the tight sections and nothing on the straight?
__________________
Going nowhere fast since 1973!
skater-deez1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 08:26 AM   #865
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

The silver cans are slow, for sure.. lol. I've never had a brushless motor in my car yet (just returned to the hobby after a 13 year lay off). When I see FDR's that low my eyes get huge. The silver can gets to about 100-110 degrees after a five minute run. I could try another tooth. Maybe two.

Right now the fast guys can not pass me in the tight section when keeping the car as wide as possible and lines tight ( ie. careful, respectful blocking). But coming out of this is a right hand sweeper followed by the long straight. When the chassis' of the cars level out and the load of cornering is gone they can pull me on the straight and usually beat me to the next corner.
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 08:37 AM   #866
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

One more thing that I've been thinking about since installing a modern day ESC yesterday. Side to side weight balance.

My LHS uses an old school race system with the old heavy transponders like we used over a decade ago. I decided to make a transponder mount that hangs off of the back of my servo, placing the transponder where the RX used to be. I'm using an M12, and with the 471 RX being so tiny, I mounted it (shoe goo) to the side of the belt tunnel, leaving room for the transponder in that area. I was hoping to lower my CG this way, but now I'm wondering about right to left chassis balance.

Think I should try to put the transponder on the other side, in front of the battery?

I don't know where else to ask these questions.. lol. Afraid of asking in other threads because most guys will likely say "get a new chassis or go to a different track". Neither being an option.

EDIT TO ADD: I was running a Novak Cyclone. I just put in a Tekin RS Gen2 wondering if there is less internal resistance, and it's much lighter. I'm racing it tonight for the first time.
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 09:21 AM   #867
Tech Master
 
skater-deez1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Mechanicsburg,Pa
Posts: 1,704
Trader Rating: 60 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostTown View Post
One more thing that I've been thinking about since installing a modern day ESC yesterday. Side to side weight balance.

My LHS uses an old school race system with the old heavy transponders like we used over a decade ago. I decided to make a transponder mount that hangs off of the back of my servo, placing the transponder where the RX used to be. I'm using an M12, and with the 471 RX being so tiny, I mounted it (shoe goo) to the side of the belt tunnel, leaving room for the transponder in that area. I was hoping to lower my CG this way, but now I'm wondering about right to left chassis balance.

Think I should try to put the transponder on the other side, in front of the battery?

I don't know where else to ask these questions.. lol. Afraid of asking in other threads because most guys will likely say "get a new chassis or go to a different track". Neither being an option.

EDIT TO ADD: I was running a Novak Cyclone. I just put in a Tekin RS Gen2 wondering if there is less internal resistance, and it's much lighter. I'm racing it tonight for the first time.
Yeah LOL, no shortage of people on here that say that stuff. I'm not sure that the balance side to side would slow you down that much...a little yes but not that much. Try the next tooth up on the pinion and maybe stiffen up the suspension as it may be too soft which tends to make the car a little lazy. Sounds like a very cool class, aside from vta all we have here is 17.5 and everyone is pretty fast in that class. Another thing to consider is overall weight and see if you can shave some here and there.
__________________
Going nowhere fast since 1973!
skater-deez1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 09:41 AM   #868
Tech Apprentice
 
GhostTown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southwest Idaho
Posts: 93
Default

Thanks for your replies and help.

It's been a challenge running this car. I showed up two weeks ago with this chassis at a track full of shumachers and the local gurus looked at me like I was crazy. I wasn't outright scoffed at, but I received looks that read "Yeah... thanks for coming out, but you should really just get an Mi1/4/5 like the rest of us."

I'm not running it because it's all I have. I purposely bought this car to run. Mostly due to nostalgia and my love for pre-horizon Losi, but also because it's different, and it IS a challenge. A lot of the regulars didn't even know Losi made a touring car.

I'll bump up one more tooth this evening and see if that helps. Thanks again.
GhostTown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 11:34 AM   #869
Tech Adept
 
loosewheel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 189
Cool

I get that a lot. "You need to drive what we drive." I tell them if they want to make it spec. racing, I'll get out of the way. No one has yet!
__________________
Jody
Greetings from sunny Northern California
Going fast and breaking plastic since 1998.
RELIC RACING
loosewheel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2015, 12:05 PM   #870
Tech Regular
 
mthomas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 344
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

I am running the spec Novak motor and 100/50 spur/pinion putting me around 3.5 and I was pulling peeps on the straight. I was running my x-ray T3 in VTA with the same FDR and it was also fast. I made my x-ray into a USGT and made the xxx-s into a VTA and the car was given to me and was not run in 10 years.

The belt should not be an issue, run as loose as possible without skipping and no real need to clip any teeth. You should have plenty of freewheel without the motor attached, if not, start looking at the bearings for drag.

I think the biggest issue with these cars is difficulty of getting the droop right. Once that is set, everything else will fall into play. Balance has an effect since the LiPo's are much lighter than the round cells, but when you have to add weight for VTA(1550 grams), just put the weight on the battery side. Mine was not too bad side to side and I used 4 scales from a friend and the front right and rear left were light.

I am also thinking the hopping is due to the front camber link position and not having enough camber change through the turn so I will work on that.
__________________
Even your Gameface is ugly!
Team Losi Racing
Horizon Hobby
B-Fast Diff's
Calandra Racing Concepts
mthomas is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:13 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net