R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-13-2010, 08:21 PM   #316
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Now thats weird !!! Never seen that one either. Was it new in package ? If so, was there a part number on it ??
glweek, I'll take a look at my stash of parts....I think I have sway bar sets new in package. Most all of my rc stuff is up for sale folks...including 2-3cars worth of parts. Let me know if you're looking for things.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 12:24 AM   #317
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 594
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoracer View Post
Now thats weird !!! Never seen that one either. Was it new in package ? If so, was there a part number on it ??
glweek, I'll take a look at my stash of parts....I think I have sway bar sets new in package. Most all of my rc stuff is up for sale folks...including 2-3cars worth of parts. Let me know if you're looking for things.
Yes it was new in package. I bought itoff Stormerhobbies. The model number was LOSA9918. Also what exactly do you have in your stash? hit me up a PM.
rc10t3b4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 06:21 PM   #318
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 594
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

John. I love this thread. The pictures you link looks so professional. It's like reading a manual. Now would you mind explaining how to build the shocks and how they are suppose to fell like after building them? I'm not really sure how they are suppose to feel like since the shocks used on the XXX-S are completely different in design compare to a industry standard shock. Thankyou.
rc10t3b4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-14-2010, 06:30 PM   #319
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Check this thread also. Some good info in both. Go to John's website also. EXCELLENT guide to chassis tuning. I was much more confident after reading it and it showed in the way my car handled.

XXX-S Tips and Talk for Stock Classes

And in case you haven't seen John's site....

http://www.stranahan-rc.com/index.html

And the shocks are really easy. Do you have the manual ?? If so, follow the directions implicitly. It may seem odd but do just what they say and the shocks work fine. I actually tried the JRXS shocks and found that, on our track, the xxxs shocks worked better. Then again, after reading Johns stuff I made progressive changes in the suspension which made EVERYTHING work better.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-15-2010, 02:11 PM   #320
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 594
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Thankyou for the response Evo. Well I was going to make my XXX-S into a drifter and my JRX-S Type-R into a parking lot basher but after 1 night in a parking lot it turned out to be borning. Thse cars are design for a track and a track they shall see. So I figure I'll race the XXX-S in mode and the JRX-S in stock(using 27t motors). Now, seeing that graphite chassis are hard to find should I save mine and just buy the standard plastic chassis for the XXX-S?
Sucks Losi droppede JRX-S and XXX-S line. I hope this isn't the end for Losi and on-road. Both car were ahead of its time. It would be sweet to see a new Losi with the singlebelt of a XXX-S and the center weight dist. of the JRX-S.
rc10t3b4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2012, 10:17 AM   #321
Tech Fanatic
 
Fast410's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Plainfield IL.
Posts: 954
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Paraletic-Thanks for the update on the belt. I have one vote on the black belt. It could be that a harder finish helps it in stock.

Bodies-Thats the RTR body. I have not noticed much difference in touring car bodies of late. They are strangled by a fistfull of dimensions that must be met. Kind of like Nascar. Probably will not be able to notice a change in handling ever again.

I don't have lap times yet. Will be glad to help with setups. It is probably best to state a problem and we can work on correcting it.

HOPUPS

Here are some upgrades I thought would be useful for running mod at Mikes.

GPM Red Aluminum Shocks
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=2862&brand=Team Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

Aluminum Wheel Hex
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA9687

Locked Diff Pulley, standard 42 tooth XXX-S, JRXS
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?src=ns&pn=LOSA3325

Aluminum Motor Clamp
http://www.asiatees.com/display.php?id=3445&brand=Team Losi&model=XXX-S&pid=1

Here is why.
I really only need those threaded adjusters to get the tweak just right. This is very helpful in mod and stock. Losi shocks are very good. They do sell threaded bodies. These were cheap and red.

My cars have a tendency for the axle pin to just rotated through a plastic hex with a 3.5 on board. The Aluminum hex is good insurance. I purchased medium width to catch every last bit of plastic on the wheels hex.

I installed the sandpaper locked diff rings. This is one innovation that may have been first tried on my previous thread. It is working fine. I am hoping this pulley will allow slightly more slip when in a crash with good grip while driving to protect the out drives. We ran locked front diffs on high grip indoor asphalt stock, as well, to rocket out of the corner.

The motor gets quite hot. The hope is for the Aluminum clamp to keep the motor plate cooler. The Aluminum clamp will keep its setting longer without retightening as the plastic clamp is not being stretched out with heat.

Track Sessions
I have had two track session with the car. This is what I notice different than the TC5. Both session were dusty and traction was low. I had more turn in. Part is due to the more flexible chassis. Another part of this is the fact that caster is set at zero on the available replacement c-hubs. I broke one when a speed control died on me. Normally I run 4 degrees of caster. Cornering is similar but I am more in control of where the nose of the car is pointing. When it gets pointed right I can start adding power (sooner than on the TC5). Acceleration is very straight. No arc. I can steer a little, though, when accelerating very strongly. I notice this on the straight with a chicane at the end. I can start pointing for the gap a lot sooner than before. This reduces the amount of braking needed. Not so with the TC5. So far I like the car a lot. I'll have to have another race to know if it's actually faster. We had very good traction by heat 3 in the last race. These small improvements are going to be magnified.

The car is several ounces too heavy. I have installed some aluminum screws to lighten it a little. Shock tower, Servo, Don't go crazy here. The titanium screw kit is too expensive to even consider. Lunsford Hinge pins might be in order. I think a graphite kit is worth an ounce but I am keeping mine Stiffzell.

Yes that is a Tekin 1/8 th scale speed control. It has not thermalled and does just fine with LRP motors. I had some trouble syncing with a Novak Ballistic series 3.5. I did not get full power. I highly recommend it for the hot states with powerful motors. I had an RSPro in the car. If you mount it on the side and blow air on the posts and bottom it makes 6 minutes most days. I had two SXX's fail. One caught on fire. The Tekin R8 works like a charm, even better than the old LRP TC edition before the SXX.

Tips for stock-You should take lengths to meet minimum weight. You can make the cutouts in the stiffzel chassis that the graphite chassis has with no ill effects. You can remove maybe 10 inches of 12 gauge wire from my setup I have pictured on page one; this will improve voltage at the motor. This will also remove 10 grams of weight. I have extra length for mod to keep things cool and in the solid state. Especially the solder joints.

Evo racer-The graphite car has greater torsional stiffness than the stiffzel car. I have measured it. About 30% more in spite of the cutouts. Use the stiff car on tracks with more traction. Add sway bars if traction roll becomes an issue or if the car is a little sloppy in its handling. The GTB, SXX or Tekin RS pro are all good for stock. Get the best of the line though as the on resistance is lower. That helps you in stock.

Pic-measuring torsional stiffness of a JRXS. I did similar measurements on the XXX-S. Stiffzel, then Graphite plus, then JRXS was the order from most flexible to stiffest.

The rear of the frame is clamped solidly in the milling machine vise. The front of the car can twist on the rod. A stiff hex aluminum rod and weight provides a little torsion. The dial indicator measures the flex.
hi,i ahve a xxx-s rtr ii and i am starting to race it on asphalt if you could list any more links of upgrades that would be great also what should you run belt tension at?
__________________
ASSOCIATED B5m-revtech, ASSOCIATED B5M- trinity D3.5, mugen mbx7r echo tekin 1900kv powered,mugen mbx7r echo 2100kv reedy powered,,serpent s411,futaba 4pks-r, futaba 4pks...GRUDGE INC. GRUDGE RACING $$ PROMOD KUSTOMZ real race car fabrication and custom painting -airbrushing CHICAGO WISEGUYS RACE CIRCUT-1/4 mile Door Slammers @ 200mph plus
Fast410 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 11:16 AM   #322
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
Default

Hello,

here is my XXX-S. I have problem with motor shaft and belt. They are so close and rub each other. I've tried different combination of mounting the motor, but this one is closest to the chassis. Using 90T 48p spur and 23T pinion.
Please give me any idea how to fix this problem? Easiest is to use spacers between motor and motor mount, but will loose cooling and stability.
Attached Thumbnails
LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-p1200401_resize.jpg   LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-p1200408_resize.jpg  
Wish_Mastera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2012, 04:01 PM   #323
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wish_Mastera View Post
Hello,

here is my XXX-S. I have problem with motor shaft and belt. They are so close and rub each other. I've tried different combination of mounting the motor, but this one is closest to the chassis. Using 90T 48p spur and 23T pinion.
Please give me any idea how to fix this problem? Easiest is to use spacers between motor and motor mount, but will loose cooling and stability.
Curious why you have the car geared so low. Your spur/pinion combo gives you a 7.2 gear ratio. Is that what you were planning on ??

That looks like a Castle Creations motor. You may have to check that the motor shaft is the same as others. It may be longer than most.

Do you have the motor mounted correctly on the motor mount cam ?? Some people have reversed them.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2012, 07:58 PM   #324
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 429
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default looking for xxx-s g+

iam looking for xxxs g+ pm me your price, ty
vintage boy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2012, 02:45 PM   #325
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
Default

Evoracer, this is castle motor CM36 and its 7700kv. I though it will be good enough with this gearing, but never tried it yet. Maybe you are right. I have other pinions, 26,27,28 and 31T so will try different setup. About mounting the motor, I'm almost sure its correct. I compared to picutres in the manual and over internet and there ppl mount it the same way. Maybe problem is with this small pinion. Will try these days and see what happen.
Wish_Mastera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-27-2012, 04:02 PM   #326
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Very good possibility. I must admit I have never used 48p gears on my cars.
7700kv equates to around a 5t motor. YIKES !!
I would check the thread for info on what ratios others have used with low turn motors.
I have no experience with mod level racing. Maybe someone could chime in with some advice !!??
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2012, 03:27 PM   #327
Tech Elite
 
nf_ekt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: 22 Acacia Avenue
Posts: 4,631
Trader Rating: 113 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage boy View Post
iam looking for xxxs g+ pm me your price, ty
I would really look through Ebay, they pop up on a regular basis. Still one of my faves, has never done me wrong...
nf_ekt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-01-2012, 05:43 AM   #328
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 28
Default

Recently I get 2 XXX-S chassis, 1 graphite and 1 stock. But both belts are junk. Where can I find belts at good price for backyard use. I dont wat to race, no need to be from the expensive ones.
Wish_Mastera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2012, 02:59 PM   #329
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 18
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wish_Mastera View Post
Recently I get 2 XXX-S chassis, 1 graphite and 1 stock. But both belts are junk. Where can I find belts at good price for backyard use. I dont wat to race, no need to be from the expensive ones.
Also interested in finding out what belt to buy and where to buy it. I have read of people using the XXX-4 belt but mine seems to jump and I have it as tight as the tensioner will allow.
jetroc0088 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2012, 03:35 PM   #330
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NY&FL
Posts: 3,359
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

The XXX4 belt is actually easier to get. It's the same as the XXXS Black "long" belt so it requires the appropriate tensioner. That may be your problem. You're using the longer belt with the stock tensioner which doesn't allow enough travel.

Here's a pic

http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200813315

Last edited by Evoracer; 06-01-2012 at 03:49 PM.
Evoracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:40 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0