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Old 12-29-2009, 10:19 PM   #196
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Kajman-You should probably make the decision based on the track. I drive outdoors on a medium traction surface. The more flexible XXX-S chassis has more cornering grip. It also has roll clearance built into the chassis. In other words the chassis is not flat side to side. The sealed drive train keeps the gears like new. The chassis does not tweak with use.

On carpet indoors, or high traction indoors with stock motors, you are probably better served with he JRXS and the double belt system and stiff double plate chassis.
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:44 AM   #197
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No, it will be only modified motors. Other question is if not to use xxx-s g+ on carpet and jrxs on big, open asphalt tracks with very good traction?
Other thing is what how exactly to find out which chassis is stiffzel? I have several G+, several rtr and some strange, which seem to be graphite, but fullframe, not cut as g+.
I guess g+ would be nice for high traction and carpet? And the "normal" for more slippery surfaces as it tweaks more?
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Old 12-30-2009, 01:25 PM   #198
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With mod motors the XXX-s has no friction disadvantage that it does in high traction with stock motors. Something about the single belt when it is wound on really tight slows a stock a bit.

The JRXS will work well on a big open track with very high traction. With lower traction I favor the XXX-S g+

As far as I know there are four chassis flavors. Those without cutouts are the RTR and the Stiffzell original. The RTR plastic is a little blacker. Good flex for slippery conditions like you said.

The first graphite chassis was cutout quite a bit and had an L for Losi cut in the left rear bottom just aft of the motor.

The second graphite chassis (possibly a Matt Francis Edition) had more cutouts in an X pattern no L. The bottom is then lightened by milling a little. Cutouts near the steering bellcranks were huge. This is the lightest chassis, but really not much lighter than stiffzell if you make the same cutouts by hand. This last graphite edition is what I am racing now. I recovered the loss in traction over RTR by raising it up .5 mm to 6 mm ride height.


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No, it will be only modified motors. Other question is if not to use xxx-s g+ on carpet and jrxs on big, open asphalt tracks with very good traction?
Other thing is what how exactly to find out which chassis is stiffzel? I have several G+, several rtr and some strange, which seem to be graphite, but fullframe, not cut as g+.
I guess g+ would be nice for high traction and carpet? And the "normal" for more slippery surfaces as it tweaks more?
The only car that has a distinct advantage over the XXX-S in Mod on a large track is a Serpent S120 with rear gear diff. It seems to have more rear traction and thus more corner exit acceleration. We do not have that option of a rear gear diff. In the same breath though, it makes the rear driveline delicate and failed to finish 5 of six heats in the last big race we had. I finished 2cnd with the XXX-S the S120 finished 8th in the main after a failure.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:17 PM   #199
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we should send John a Losi type-R as late christmas gift.

with rear center motor and longer arms Type-R should suit you perfect for what you needed and we can benefit from your knowledge excelating the car.

happy new year all

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With mod motors the XXX-s has no friction disadvantage that it does in high traction with stock motors. Something about the single belt when it is wound on really tight slows a stock a bit.

The JRXS will work well on a big open track with very high traction. With lower traction I favor the XXX-S g+


The only car that has a distinct advantage over the XXX-S in Mod on a large track is a Serpent S120 with rear gear diff. It seems to have more rear traction and thus more corner exit acceleration. We do not have that option of a rear gear diff. In the same breath though, it makes the rear driveline delicate and failed to finish 5 of six heats in the last big race we had. I finished 2cnd with the XXX-S the S120 finished 8th in the main after a failure.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:47 PM   #200
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Thanks John for some explanation. So you race now G+ chassis, not DIY cut stiffzel? Before I say mine, what is yout opinion in comparism of durability of Asso TC5 and XXX-S? I do have now TC5R for 9,5 carpet racing, but at some points I wonder if I gain more from less friction of TC5 or XXXs durability...
By the way, there are ceramic ball bearings sets for xxx at ebay, ABEC5 for 25$/16pcs if somebody needs, AFAIK it is a good price
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Old 12-30-2009, 09:06 PM   #201
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I would be happy to test a donated or loaned Type R for a short time. I have driven the JRXS on this same track.

Yes I am using the graphite chassis now. I bought a used car to get it.

The TC5 has very durable arms and C-hubs due to a flexible material in the original and type R car. I was quite happy with the durability on my high speed track. The XXX-S breaks an arm on a real hard hit on our current layout with flappers. I am happy with it as well durability wise. I have broken 3 arms since the thread started and that is all.
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Old 01-01-2010, 07:50 AM   #202
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Default XXX-S G+ VTA spur/pinion indoor 90 X 50 carpet

Have spent days looking for this info, but cannot seem to find specifics. Not much info on the VTA forum. I am a newbie looking for VTA gear setup. Have a Havoc 21.5 2c lipo ordered from LHS. I also ordered a spur adapter. I suppose 64 pitch for indoor carpet is best? Any recommendations for spur/pinion combos?

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Old 01-01-2010, 08:34 AM   #203
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Have spent days looking for this info, but cannot seem to find specifics. Not much info on the VTA forum. I am a newbie looking for VTA gear setup. Have a Havoc 21.5 2c lipo ordered from LHS. I also ordered a spur adapter. I suppose 64 pitch for indoor carpet is best? Any recommendations for spur/pinion combos?

Thanks
How big is the track you are running on? Any FDR rule at your track?

I've always run with the losi 108 plastic spur and have had no problems getting a good FDR. I can't remember what the pinion was when we ran the USVTA 4.2 FDR max. Maybe a 44? Go to the gearchart.com website and see what you need.

If you are on an indoor track keep in mind that often an FDR closer to 5.0 may be faster than 4.2, even with a havoc.

I run a Tekin and depending on the layout and tune have gone as low as 6.0 with timing advance and "turbo" mode.
Looking at the new USVTA rules coming into play, I'll probably be running a havoc at 5.0 FDR soon too.

If you are running on carpet I have a decent setup I can send you.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:37 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rj5620 View Post
Have spent days looking for this info, but cannot seem to find specifics. Not much info on the VTA forum. I am a newbie looking for VTA gear setup. Have a Havoc 21.5 2c lipo ordered from LHS. I also ordered a spur adapter. I suppose 64 pitch for indoor carpet is best? Any recommendations for spur/pinion combos?

Thanks
Beside detail tech info throughout this thread, if specific reference means setup sheets you may visit losiboard.com for setup sheet library from early 2000 ~ ...
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Old 01-01-2010, 09:03 AM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasons56 View Post
How big is the track you are running on? Any FDR rule at your track?

I've always run with the losi 108 plastic spur and have had no problems getting a good FDR. I can't remember what the pinion was when we ran the USVTA 4.2 FDR max. Maybe a 44? Go to the gearchart.com website and see what you need.

If you are running on carpet I have a decent setup I can send you.
Track is about 90 X 40 and it is carpet. They are recommending a FDR of 4.2 to 4.4.

Thanks

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Old 01-01-2010, 09:04 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faiz View Post
Beside detail tech info throughout this thread, if specific reference means setup sheets you may visit losiboard.com for setup sheet library from early 2000 ~ ...
Great thanks

Richard
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Old 01-04-2010, 11:46 AM   #207
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Ordered my VTA 21.5 Havoc combo 12/23, but they are on backorder from my LHS. I am getting ancy to drive my car! Also read where the new rules dictate a 25.5 so I canceled the order and picked up some smooth rubber tires, a 17.5 motor, a used 5000 lipo and am about ready to roll as a TC. The motor may be too long to fit my XXX-S G+ chassis, has anyone had to trim the outside rail for BL motors? I will get a 25.5 in September unless of course they change the rules again. If I use a 108 spur and corresponding pinion, what is a recommend FDR for a TC?
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Old 01-04-2010, 04:16 PM   #208
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My graphite chassis is opened up on the outboard end of the motor opening. It is not needed with the LRP X12 that I run. Brushless motors have gotten a little more compact with new releases.

That neat detail of holdown screws for the speed control wires is not that gentle on the wires. I don't use it any more as it tends to cut the insulation with the washer. I lay the wires in the same area though.

The XXX-S ran really well this Sunday. Some drizzle called the club race off. I was in a chase that cut a couple of tenths off my best time of late. Only one car was consistently faster, the Serpent. It is mostly a very talented driver though. I used RP40's at 48F. They needed about 1.5 laps to heat up. The new X12 3.5 runs great.
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Old 01-11-2010, 02:59 PM   #209
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Whenever I go in reverse my car makes a very loud crunching noise. I am pretty sure the gear mesh is correct, I have reset it twice and know how to set it. Is there anything else I could check?
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:21 PM   #210
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There is some slack in the belt that causes ocassinal skiped teeth on brakes, and possibly in your case in reverse. After the skipping things settle down and work fine. No cause for alarm.


Track test.
That green belt was fluttering some on the straight. It needed another big adjustment. Only one adjustment left and I will be back on the black belt for mod.
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