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Old 12-08-2009, 07:04 PM   #166
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The XXX-S RTR is still available at Stormer. There is a small market for the elctronics that it contains. I had pretty good luck and went that route. I have not had much trouble getting spares yet. I have plenty.
sure, I just didnt see any kit listed on the Losi.com, I have plenty of everything incld brand new sealed graphite chassis.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:07 PM   #167
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sure, I just didnt see any kit listed on the Losi.com, I have plenty of everything incld brand new sealed graphite chassis.
you can get a new graphite chassis? Oh by the way, sorry John, I thought I posted my last post on the XXX-S thread.
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:24 PM   #168
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you can get a new graphite chassis? Oh by the way, sorry John, I thought I posted my last post on the XXX-S thread.
thought this is a wrong thread to talk about the type-R, no you can not get it nomore its been DC, I been saving my chassis for a long long time.
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Old 12-09-2009, 04:42 PM   #169
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Now back to the XXX-S.

Track Test, Air Temp 50 F.
We figured out last time that 40R tires would not work at 40F even with a 3.5 on board. I speculated 36R or 32 R. This test was at 50F. I was confident 36R would work and they did. The car was really hooked up. I could not think of anything to make it handle better. I am having one problem, though. My motor is dragging on the sweeper from the g forces rolling the car. I was hoping to just wear a wedge out of it and then have it stop. The tires wre so hooked up it wore a little more today. The only problem I see is that it does slow you down a little and now it is wearing one of the screw heads a little. On my JRXS I had to bevel my chassis edges to solve a similar rubbing problem. I can add sway bars after my weight gets under control.

The Black Diamond speed control did not ship. Maybe they are running short.
John
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Old 12-09-2009, 08:05 PM   #170
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The Black Diamond speed control did not ship. Maybe they are running short.
You think!
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Old 12-09-2009, 10:40 PM   #171
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What motor plate do you run John?
There's atleast two diff types the low mount and a higher one
if your motor is dragging sound like the low mount
stormers sell the diff mounts last time I checked ( I hope)
not sure on the effect it will hav on balance an body roll etc by raising the motor but it will over come the motor draggin on the track
xxx4 ones are the same as xxxs so maybe try lookin at them too

Rob


Quote:
Originally Posted by John Stranahan View Post
Now back to the XXX-S.

Track Test, Air Temp 50 F.
We figured out last time that 40R tires would not work at 40F even with a 3.5 on board. I speculated 36R or 32 R. This test was at 50F. I was confident 36R would work and they did. The car was really hooked up. I could not think of anything to make it handle better. I am having one problem, though. My motor is dragging on the sweeper from the g forces rolling the car. I was hoping to just wear a wedge out of it and then have it stop. The tires wre so hooked up it wore a little more today. The only problem I see is that it does slow you down a little and now it is wearing one of the screw heads a little. On my JRXS I had to bevel my chassis edges to solve a similar rubbing problem. I can add sway bars after my weight gets under control.

The Black Diamond speed control did not ship. Maybe they are running short.
John
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Old 12-10-2009, 12:38 AM   #172
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Default xxx-s belt

hihi,

Trying restore my XXX-S and found that the belt disintegrated.

What is the diff with those 3 colors these days ?

Yellow vs Blue vs Black. Which one should I buy to have longer life belt.
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Old 12-11-2009, 09:59 AM   #173
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Hi John, Although this question isnt specific to the xxxs, I'm on this thread because of your expertise. Currently trying out a car with multiple adjustments via shims for inboard toe. Curious as to the real value of this. I can understand it for the rear of the car assuming you dont have hubs available in various offsets. Thus shimming the angle at the pivots (or using different length pivots as many cars have )seems logical. At the front though...it seems reduntant. The turnbuckles can change the outboard toe all thats needed. Changing the inboard toe ( or sweep) of the arm doesnt seem to make any sense. You mentioned in this thread that the value of this would be to straighten the driveshaft angle on the xxxs. Beyond that purpose...Is there some reason for inboard toe adjustment??
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:36 AM   #174
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ongbenghui-the black HD (heavy duty) belt should give the longest service life. It requires a little kit with a longer tensioning arm and different pulley.
On a long outdoor asphalt track I am prefering the blue belt for quiter operation and good top speed.

evoracer-If you change the angle of the arms you do a couple of things. Lets say you angle front arms forward. You make the car longer. If you don't shift weight to compensate you also create a more rearward weight bias. You angle the front dogbones more forward.

Of the three I would rate moving the dogbone as the greatest effect. There is less lift of the arm on forward acceleration. This gives you a little more bite in stock. An old Yokomo double belt touring car had very swept forward bones. It was a rocket out of the corners in stock. Almost as good as the TC3 (on rubber tires).

Lengthening the car increases the time spent in rotation. This tends to settle the car down on long high speed tracks.

A more rearward weight bias may soften the steering a little and make the car easier to drive. I like a 2-3 ounce excess in the rear. This also produces maximum cornering g's as the rear preload compensates for forward weight transfer on corner entry.

If you use the adjustment to widen the front, then slightly less steering traction will be available.

One of those adjustments, really, that we could do without easily.

Use diff height and arm sweep adjustments to make your bones come out straight from the car to lower friction for stock or forward for slightly more foward traction with rubber tires.

Rob-I am running the lowered motor plate. The RTR car also came with this. I have two plates both lowered. I did not see the standard plate available. I see where it might help.

John
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:57 PM   #175
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Boy that made sense !!! Thanks John. So, in essence, the front inboard toe adjustment is really a separate animal from typical outboard toe adjustment and not to be percieved as providing the same effect.The overall effect on handling goes well beyond that and IS useful. The funny thing is that "inboard toe in" seems to be a pretty new buzz word even though that adjustment has always been around via typical 1 piece pivot mounts. I always paid much more attention to front kickup and squat via the pivots than toe.
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:56 PM   #176
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Hmmm I can't find part. Number either just the lowered kit
maybe someone else knows it???

I got two of the higher mount plates which I'm using, not sure where they came from now

I'll keep looking but if anyone else knows would be great

Rob
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:46 PM   #177
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Default Re Ackermann adjustment

Gidday,

interesting thread,

Re:ackermann

I think it depends on whether you use the inside radius or the outside radius as the controling angle.

For example if you have 27 degrees on the inner wheel and you decrease the ackermann angle but keep the 27 degree inner wheel angle, the car will have more steering. This will be because the outer wheel will turn at angle closer to the inner.

If you are running on a tight track you will usually use all your steering lock or close to it. So naturally its easy to make the inner wheel the control angle.

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Old 12-14-2009, 11:47 AM   #178
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think about it ix - where is the weight while you're turning? Not on the inside wheel - on the outside so that one should be your control.
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Old 12-14-2009, 05:55 PM   #179
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Most of the work is done with the outer wheel yes, that is another reason why this should be the wheel that changes when you do adjust your ackermann setting. The inner wheel should be the datum point (or controlling angle) in my opinion. The fact is that depending on which wheel you keep the same angle, will determine whether you get more steering or less from changing ackermann.

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Old 12-15-2009, 09:42 AM   #180
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You're not getting my point.

You adjust the outer wheel with your controller - the inner wheel is the "assist" wheel and the difference between the "main" and the "assist" is adjusted via ackerman . . . why would you use two adjustments to change the main?
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