Novak Kinetic

Old 08-22-2010, 07:48 PM
  #526  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST
Really It's only a matter of time before we're running the same car bro They better watch out.
Clint i let Dujuan drive my car last weekend, his head popped back and said "damn this things got punch"
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Old 08-22-2010, 08:10 PM
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Did you figure out that shut down glitch?

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Old 08-22-2010, 09:28 PM
  #528  
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Originally Posted by Advil
Did you figure out that shut down glitch?

Art
yes i did, the solder joint under the heat shrink for my battery came off. i guess i wore it out from unpluging the battery. they fit pretty tight so i was pulling hard never noticed it cause it was under the heat shrink.
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:14 PM
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Had a blast this weekend with my new gear. Seemed to have good power, but it seems like it could have more. How much timing cam I put in there, or should I stay at 30*? the buggy's motor temp was 120 after 8 minutes and the esc was about 120. The trucks motor was about 150 after 5 minutes and the esc was about 120. Also, I'm having some problems understanding the Novalink program. What do I put in for the timing set point? Would it be safe to put the timing to boost?
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Old 08-22-2010, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ed517
yes i did, the solder joint under the heat shrink for my battery came off. i guess i wore it out from unpluging the battery. they fit pretty tight so i was pulling hard never noticed it cause it was under the heat shrink.
OH MAN! That's horrible....well, Clint would say FAIL but I reserve that for him. LOL

I can't wait for our next race! See ya at the track.

Art
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:48 AM
  #531  
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I ran this weekend at our track using the settings that Steve Lander posted a few pages back; basically max timing with boost on and an FDR of 6.9

The car was pretty fast and the temp was coming in at 78 degrees - a minor concern but it was a cool day. I did, at one point, play with the drive frequency to make the car more 'punchy' but it just didn't feel right.

I don't think that I was just as fast as the GM or Hobbywing but they have been running for weeks now - I am more than happy that I will get there with the Kinetic. And the highest temp on the speedo was flashing blue lights.

I had the start and finish RPMs set at 4000 and 8000 - what are other people using on these?

Good stuff!
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Old 08-23-2010, 06:00 AM
  #532  
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I don't run one of these but if I look at what other ESC's are doing with timing advance and turbo/supercharge then I think your RPM range is a little tight, the motor temp would probably drop if you changed nothing else and used an rpm range of something like 4k to 13k. It's going to feel a little softer than before though.
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by scoyle
I ran this weekend at our track using the settings that Steve Lander posted a few pages back; basically max timing with boost on and an FDR of 6.9

The car was pretty fast and the temp was coming in at 78 degrees - a minor concern but it was a cool day. I did, at one point, play with the drive frequency to make the car more 'punchy' but it just didn't feel right.

I don't think that I was just as fast as the GM or Hobbywing but they have been running for weeks now - I am more than happy that I will get there with the Kinetic. And the highest temp on the speedo was flashing blue lights.

I had the start and finish RPMs set at 4000 and 8000 - what are other people using on these?

Good stuff!
Scoyle, if i remember a few posts back, you are running a 10.5 correct. are you using a ballistic motor? a fdr around 7 is a good start but consider your start and end rpm, with these setting u are keeping max timing applied to your motor around the entire track. producing your high temps. I believe this is also causing your lack of punch.(too much timing too soon.) try to work with a start around 7000 and end around 18000. if you want alot of "POP" try the min drive option or custom thr profile (default 2 is the most agressive). let us know how this works. dont forget to temp often
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Old 08-23-2010, 09:37 AM
  #534  
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire
You can't compare three different ESC's with the same settings and expect them to run the same. Regardless of how similar they are you should treat them all as completely different.
I couldn't agree more; I have heard that many calls/emails to tech support are due to users not reading our instructions. Racers are assuming that their knowledge is "portable".....from another esc to our Kinetic.


Developer email: [email protected]
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by NovakTwo
I couldn't agree more; I have heard that many calls/emails to tech support are due to users not reading our instructions. Racers are assuming that their knowledge is "portable".....from another esc to our Kinetic.


Developer email: [email protected]
While I agree, it is interesting to compare, as they are all internally doing pretty much the same thing. I have had no cause for tech support but mearly commenting on how much more heat the kinetic seems to produce than the others that I have tried. Obviously all these ESC's have a sweet spot I just need to find it. And I was just running with the default timing ranges that come with the novalink, which from what I have seen from my other controllers are pretty close for 2 cell 17.5.

Now the concerns that I have are that the settings via the lights seem to be different from what they are in the novalink. This is really odd. Especially the drag brakes. If I set it with the lights they seem to work, if I have them set via the novalink, nothing, I got 50% drag brake set and the car is very rollie. The only thing that I haven't tried is recalibrating the radio as maybe the neutral point is not reading right.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:19 PM
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Try lowering your dead band, on my first night I kept having the car roll at neutral when trying to go on and off the drag brake, and then it would kick in and just sit there, not recognizing neutral, so I tried lowering the dead band to 2 (lowest allowed) and it seemed to fix the problem. I did have it pop up as an issue once more later in the night, but I think I got it nailed down now with the lower dead band.
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Old 08-23-2010, 12:30 PM
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I had just received the email addy from engineering and added it to the post I was working on. It was not directed at any specific commenter.
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by xtraman122
Try lowering your dead band, on my first night I kept having the car roll at neutral when trying to go on and off the drag brake, and then it would kick in and just sit there, not recognizing neutral, so I tried lowering the dead band to 2 (lowest allowed) and it seemed to fix the problem. I did have it pop up as an issue once more later in the night, but I think I got it nailed down now with the lower dead band.
Thanks I will give it a try.
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ed517
yes i did, the solder joint under the heat shrink for my battery came off. i guess i wore it out from unpluging the battery. they fit pretty tight so i was pulling hard never noticed it cause it was under the heat shrink.
FAILURE!!!!!
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ed517
Clint i let Dujuan drive my car last weekend, his head popped back and said "damn this things got punch"
He got beat by Billy though.... Man we are going to have some fun next weekend.
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