Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi David,

A couple more questions and some observations. First off I'm assuming that this is for 2s lipo, please confirm. Second what brand and turn of motor are you trying to do this with?

Now, as well as just doing the reset and have no NovaLink hooked up, I noticed your running the 1.4 version of the NovaLink software, you should do a update on that to the 1.43 version. I can't say this is part of the problem, but who knows.

I did try your settings on one unit, and actually could not get the turbo to kick at all, but changing the delay from 1800 to 100 made no difference, although I did not get a input error either and it did take to the speed control, BUT, I really think you should stay within the set parameters of 100 to 450.

I'm going to try this on my oldest version Kinetic next as this will have the oldest BB, I'll get back to you when I'm done that test.

I know it will really sound redundant, but please try the straight reset via the one touch programming first, just so we can see if we can get the bb out of the locked up mode. (Follow the instructions to a T).

Let me know what you get.

dvaid852456

I really appreciate you taking the time to help on this. I thought the last update increased the Turbo delay time and allowed you to configure it up to 2500ms. I had been running 1800ms at my local track as you are on full throttle for at least a second and a half as you come off the last corner. It was definitely working in 10.5. When I changed to 13.5 I found I was on full throttle even more whilst accelerating so upped it to 2400. To be honest this could be when the problems started. Maybe taking it over 2000ms corrupted it?

When doing one Touch I get the solid red led, Then solid green at full throttle followed by flashing green at full brake. Then blue and green flashes followed by yellow and red flash twice. Finally blue, yellow and red remain on.

dvaid852456

Hi Johny,

I was using the HPI Flux 13.5 in 2S Lipo Touring car when I noticed a lack of acceleration and then a huge snap in acceleration on the track. When I looked at it on the bench I found the turbo problem. I then wired in my GM 10.5 Pro and it did the same thing.

The screen shots were from my desktop PC, My laptop is running 1.4.3 and I only ever use this to update the Kinetic.

After running the one touch setup the ESC seems to run properly in factory default mode. I also tried adding timing via the button and that also seems to work. So it seems everything works until you enable turbo. Even via the button it still kicks in the very moment full throttle is reached and the green LED comes on.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I think it might not recognize the delay function either way , but does it recognize the rpm start function? Hopefully, you can use the rpm start as a delay system through the one touch system.... Sometimes it's best to work around the issues in your own way to compensate for technical imperfections. I don't think the delay ever got programmed into the system at all....

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi David,

This is a good start, at least we know that the sc can be defaulted to the factory specs, which in all likelyhood means we have something in the advanced programing thats not liking what we are trying to do.

I think bertrands is correct. I also think its a little bit of misunderstanding on what the combination of the 3 options do combined that will make the speed control react correctly or at least for what we want it to do on the track.

The actual time delay is very insignificant even at its largest setting (I'm still waiting for some additional information on the actual allowable parameter settings) and when I bench test I also notice very little delay when full throttle is applied no matter what time delay I have in the unit. I do find that the start and max are really the two changes that really help the car accelerate, and with the applied timing set, once full throttle is applied it throws all the final allowable timing at the motor. Saying that its more reflective of finding right gearing, start and max rpm and then letting boost do the last part, BUT, if your geared correctly, there should be little feel difference from a constant hard acceleration to peak top end versus the violent kick of the turbo on the last part of the straight.

I do feel that the instant feel of the boost feels normal to me and that most times I turn off the boost and just use applied timing to get the top end I'm looking for. The boost just feels to violent in most applications. Usually only good for some laughs as its just a crazy acceleration.

Still going to try and simulate your setup to see if I can get it to do the same thing though. I'll let you know.

dvaid852456

I'm not sure how the start and end RPM can be used as a delay for the turbo as Betrand suggests? It looks like I'll have to just stick on the max 55* timing and play with the start and end rpm and forget turbo.

Up until this problem the setup was spot on using turbo. I had 40* timing for the infield and tuned the turbo for the straight. It was defintitely recognising a 900ms delay when i was running 10.5 and nothing could touch it on the straight. I'd got temps for ESC and motor to about 65C.

It looks like turbo is much more tunable on the Speed Passion so I should be okay. I'm demoting the kinetic to a wet car setup and I'll stick to just timing.

It would be interesting to hear what turbo delay is actually possible, the software allows you to enter up to 2500ms and the ESC seems to accept it.

dvaid852456

Claws retracted - sorry No offence meant.

dvaid852456

The thing is the max applied timing setting is only 55* The Turbo/Boost mode is the max timing possible (around 64* I think) Without enabling boost I was being beaten down the straight by everyone. I couldn't gear any higher as temps were getting too high and infield acceleration was being compromised.

By enabling the boost and tuning the delay nothing got close on the straight, the gearing allowed great acceleration on the infield and temps were nice and low.

If it were possible to set max timing as 64* and set a high end RPM it might keep up but 55* just doesn't give the top end Turbo/Boost provided.

Losiho

iTrader: (1)

Memo to Novak - bring back the Pit Wizard. It was ahead of its time.

The HobbyWing / Orion style programming card is the best method imo of programming an ESC. Counting blinking lights is tedious, and nobody wants to drag a laptop with them to the track.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If you where to run a higher timing set point rpm and 40* of applied timing and 30* of motor timing this would allow for good bottom end, then setting your your max timing set point to take the car 3/4 down the long straight, with what ever delay you have set once it hits the max timing set point rpm it will apply the additional timing to supply the boost feel. So if you feel like you need the boost to kick in earlier, lower that max timing set point, so the rpm recognized is a shorter straight and then the boost kick in earlier. I think running a big number in the boost delay will make for a less accurate feel, such as if you over cook a entrance onto a straight and you're counting on that long delay, it could actually come on part ways thru a gradual sweeper corner instead of on the straight as you would want it, with a short delay you can control the boost on/off better via the position of the trigger.

This makes me ask if you happened to change your fdr between the runs when your trouble started to happen?

One thing to note is that the default profile for like selecting a 10.5 2s motor is in most situations not a good setting, just enough to get yuo started but really requires a finer tune, and it can be really out to lunch depending on the fdr you are running since the speed control is looking only at rpm.

I'm still waiting for some of the info to come in. Just wondering where you heard or read about the bigger time delay setting? I have only found 2 sources that give hard numbers as 100-450 and one says 100-500 ms delay, and I can't find anything giving anything over that.

Still will try to simulate but this could be a couple of days before I can get to it, but i'll let you know what I find.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

If I were you dvaid, I would leave the boost on and train myself at simulating the required delay before going full throttle, and I would use radio expo and servo acceleration to really fine tune the feel of the throttle instead of going the software route.....

dvaid852456

I hadn't thought about adding more physical motor timing. Currently it's as low as possible at 7* and I was doing it all throught software.

If I upped it to 27* as you suggest and then run 40* with a higer End RPM I could get what I'm after.

I did change my FDR to 7.5 as the motor was coming off too hot, 86*. It was much better performance and temps at 7.5. The round that the turbo problem started the motor came off at 99* even at 7.5FDR! Basically because turbo was on accelerating out of corners and bogging the motor down.

I really can't remember where I read about the delay. I'll see if I can find it. Whether it was in an email from charlie or on this forum?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Got the word that up 1500 was possible, BUT, in most cases doesn't seem to work. Also that boost is problematic as well.

I think you're starting to see the different way to manipulate the speed control to make it work the way you want it to, which I believe will also help to get you back to better operating temps, with the added performance. Once again bertrands recommendation is very accurate, and he could probably give you better insight on how to manipulate the available settings to get what you want it to do.

As a note I was starting to think that without changing your settings but your fdr would be moving the acceleration rpm to different parts of the track which is why it would start to feel very different.

Hope some of this helps.

Steve S

iTrader: (5)

Has anyone had a problem with setting up custom timing ramps? I can set my timing level, start and end RPM, and everything works great. Then as soon as I try to configure a custom ramp, the motor runs at zero-timing speed. Even if I just pop open the custom ramp window and hit OK without changing anything, no perceptible timing is applied to the motor. This is a 17.5 1S setup with 2S receiver pack.

I sent off an email to Charlie, but I wondered if anyone else has run into this.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I had that problem once but did a esc reset and it seemed to fix it up. Maybe give that a try.