Novak Kinetic
#1906
Novak is better. I sold all my tekin stuff to buy more Novak stuff after trying a Kinetic one night...
#1907
Just need to be able to drive like him now
The PC interface is so easy to change settings and read back Motor and ESC temps after each run too.
#1908
anyone got novalink to work with 64 bit win 7?
i get unhandled exception when i try to start the firmware updater.
i get unhandled exception when i try to start the firmware updater.
#1909
If you still have problems email tech support at Novak. They're really helpful when it comes to install issues.
#1910
Kinetic novice!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi everyone
Please can you help with a set up i've been reading posts
but at present i'm getting more confused. Im a novice at the programming side and im wondering if someone could give me a base set-up.
The track - quite technical with 120ft straight.
The car - TC6; 17.5 Novak ballistic motor
Novak kinetic ESC
Any help at all would be much appreciated.
Many thanks for reading this.
Please can you help with a set up i've been reading posts
but at present i'm getting more confused. Im a novice at the programming side and im wondering if someone could give me a base set-up.
The track - quite technical with 120ft straight.
The car - TC6; 17.5 Novak ballistic motor
Novak kinetic ESC
Any help at all would be much appreciated.
Many thanks for reading this.
#1911
#1912
ballistic motor timing
Hi all....
General question if anyone could help..
Ive changed a stator from 17.5 to 21.5...
When reading the Novak "ballistic motor timing information update page..
It states
"Novak’s Ballistic motors come with pre‐calibrated timing that is set from the factory. Using custom‐built and calibrated electronic equipment, each motor is set to 30 degrees of timing. This timing is 100 percent electrical and not based on an arbitrary reference pre‐built into the motor. After calibration, the timing label is added, which corresponds to the set timing N on the side of the motor."
So am I to assume that when changing a stator, the timing mark changes as well?
Why I ask is that my motor was slow, no power, no punch..Read that u can over time a Ballistic,,so i put a 3.7 volt pack in...undone the timing screws and reved the motor while turning the timing bel..Strange Because when i went + timing it slowed heaps down..When went - timing reved right up..Held at full revs and redone screws..Put back on track..and off we go, a LOT better
Ended up at -45deg and say 2.5 marks again so say -60deg???????
I did this to another persons Ballistic 17.5 to 21.5...his timing ended about the same????
My question is..how do you find the "correct" 30 deg timming when changing stators?
Am i right to assume i found the "correct" timing mark or am I wrong...Just thinking to the pre-brushless days....
Its in VTA blinky mode...so no dumping issues
Mike
General question if anyone could help..
Ive changed a stator from 17.5 to 21.5...
When reading the Novak "ballistic motor timing information update page..
It states
"Novak’s Ballistic motors come with pre‐calibrated timing that is set from the factory. Using custom‐built and calibrated electronic equipment, each motor is set to 30 degrees of timing. This timing is 100 percent electrical and not based on an arbitrary reference pre‐built into the motor. After calibration, the timing label is added, which corresponds to the set timing N on the side of the motor."
So am I to assume that when changing a stator, the timing mark changes as well?
Why I ask is that my motor was slow, no power, no punch..Read that u can over time a Ballistic,,so i put a 3.7 volt pack in...undone the timing screws and reved the motor while turning the timing bel..Strange Because when i went + timing it slowed heaps down..When went - timing reved right up..Held at full revs and redone screws..Put back on track..and off we go, a LOT better
Ended up at -45deg and say 2.5 marks again so say -60deg???????
I did this to another persons Ballistic 17.5 to 21.5...his timing ended about the same????
My question is..how do you find the "correct" 30 deg timming when changing stators?
Am i right to assume i found the "correct" timing mark or am I wrong...Just thinking to the pre-brushless days....
Its in VTA blinky mode...so no dumping issues
Mike
#1913
It sounds like something was installed in reverse !
#1914
#1915
I am talking about the manufacturer of either the motor or esc parts, not you ! Chances are you will have to test that motor thouroughly, including the new parts that you added to it ! Make sure you have another good Novak motor next to it when comparing stators, sensor board etc....
#1916
Tech Rookie
So I've run about 4 battery charges through my novak kinetic 2s and it worked fine, or so it seemed. Well today after I turned it on, as soon as I pressed the accelerator the cap started smoking and caught fire. Well I checked their website and saw that some of the caps were installed reverse polarity. From the info they provided, I can see that mine was one of the incorrectly installed caps. I just sent an email to costumer service and was wandering if anyone has had his experience. As long as they will repair it free of charge it isn't a big deal.
#1918
So I've run about 4 battery charges through my novak kinetic 2s and it worked fine, or so it seemed. Well today after I turned it on, as soon as I pressed the accelerator the cap started smoking and caught fire. Well I checked their website and saw that some of the caps were installed reverse polarity. From the info they provided, I can see that mine was one of tthe incorrectly installed caps. I just sent an email to costumer service and was wandering if anyone has had his experience. As long as they will repair it free of charge it isn't a big deal.
#1919
+3
Novak customer service are great!!
MiCk B. :-)
Novak customer service are great!!
MiCk B. :-)
#1920
Tech Rookie
I just found it strange that it would work for a while then seemingly out of the blue, fail. What confuses me is that when it did fail, the motor didn't turn. It had previously worked or seemed to work fine the previous times I ran it. I turned on the ESC and it the fan started up and everything seemed to start up normal, servo was working. When I pressed the accelerator, the cap started to smoke, but the motor didn't even start to turn. I understand why the cap failed, just wandering why the motor didn't even try to turn when it did fail. I guess the ESC could have a "safety switch" built into it or something of the sort. Oh well, I'll see what they say hopefully tomorrow.