XRAY T3

Old 03-29-2010, 07:01 PM
  #1771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,761
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by witz_dan
ok so I posted up on xray so please take a look.

Aric, i understand the traction issues at underground. Im asking more of a general setup question that I am having problems with. A car that both pushes slightly at high speed but then gets loose at low speeds. I wont be at the track this weekend its easter sunday. I will be heading to LH on saturday though.

Dan
You need to adjust your droop settings so your getting less weight transfer under braking. Try 2.5mm orh in the front and 1.5mm orh in the rear.
Johnny Wishbone is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:02 PM
  #1772  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
 
witz_dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 436
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hanulec
dan - are you sure your setup sheet is live/public? what login name did you post it under?
i didnt enter an entire sheet though i will if it really helps heres my post right now.

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=10347
witz_dan is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:03 PM
  #1773  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,761
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

The NT1 gear diff conversion in the rear works very well, no problem all weekend long and very consistant performance.
Johnny Wishbone is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:09 PM
  #1774  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 63
Default

Originally Posted by witz_dan
hey guys

so I ran my T3 for the second time today and was having a comfusing issue for me.

car started out with a really bad push at corner entry to early mid corner.. so as i slowed it would push push push then the front would grab and the rear would break loose. I pust 6* caster up front and the car handled much better but pretty much only when I drove it very aggressive. if I got off my line and slowed to much the car would hook in hard and get loose. still with a slight push.

running pretty much the stock setup with the 6* casters in 17.5

check for tweek and all other settings were good. so what can i do to keep the rear from kicking out if i get off the throttle to fast. this was touch on a little about 20 pages back but faded off.

thanks
I had the same problem with my T3. The 52 mm shafts were binding when the rear suspension was compresed. You can get the 50mm shafts or move the rear arm out 1 mm. This cured my problem.
Lugnutz1 is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:12 PM
  #1775  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (25)
 
witz_dan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 436
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

lugnutz how did you figure out that one? ill take a look at that interesting

ok johnny that makes alot of sense as well..

though I thought that dropping the rear arms to the lower hole would raise my roll center giving me less rear traction? am i wrong about that
witz_dan is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:13 PM
  #1776  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
rx7ttlm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
The NT1 gear diff conversion in the rear works very well, no problem all weekend long and very consistent performance.
send me one , I am at 19 credits this term (F-ing school of engineering... ).
rx7ttlm is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:13 PM
  #1777  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
rx7ttlm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by witz_dan
lugnutz how did you figure out that one? ill take a look at that interesting

ok johnny that makes alot of sense as well..

though I thought that dropping the rear arms to the lower hole would raise my roll center giving me less rear traction? am i wrong about that
ygpm, ditch 6 degree blocks, go back to 4. 550 cst front shock oil with three holes, check your steering throw left degrees, and right degrees. If your struggling, turn the dual rate down if your a lock to lock driver (big changes first to see if that's whats happening..try -20% first and then add or subtract as needed) sounds like the car might actually be pushing, but you think its loose cause when the tires finally grab its hooking, and spinning out. The ppl that I have seen struggle with the t3 that's usually whats going on or a couple of the components. The car has a HUGE sweet spot so if the car is way off, look for something in the car that's way off.. also look for my previous post about drive shaft plunge vs lots of rear camber, and low rear toe values

4 degree blocks are a great place for 90% of the carpet racing, and 550 front oil will help the car feel a little bit more mellow.
rx7ttlm is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:14 PM
  #1778  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
TRXRACER99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,094
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

thing that would help a lot is saucing the whole front tire. I hope your not running 100% dual rate i run about 60% on mine
TRXRACER99 is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:18 PM
  #1779  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 63
Default

witz dan, just looked at your set up, same one I had on the car. Check the black drive shaft cups they might have marks on them from binding when they bottom out.
Lugnutz1 is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:29 PM
  #1780  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
 
hanulec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: @ the post office
Posts: 10,274
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

dan - increasing your dampening should help too. i suspect you have a ton of chassis rub marks w/ the 350wt - your car is probably on the ground in the high speed sweeper. i'd also recommend bumping up the spring rate on carpet. i just tried 3.4 front / 3.0 rear - it was pretty good .. but would probably only work if grip comes up. standing up your shocks in the rear should also improve the 'cut' of the car at high speed.

i've been running a wide rear end setup most of the season with my t3 - added an extra 1.5mm everywhere in the rear. the wide rear will help improve overall stability too.

how much dual rate do you have in your car? you might just have too much throw in hopes of getting through the sweeper and it is causing the car to be loose in the infield. i'd also recommend equaling your front & rear camber to 1.5mm and then removing some dual rate.

mike
hanulec is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:29 PM
  #1781  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
rx7ttlm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TRXRACER99
thing that would help a lot is saucing the whole front tire. I hope your not running 100% dual rate i run about 60% on mine
It also depends on how you drive.. Some people are lock to lock drivers.. I started out that way.. but now I run more dual rate and just use the steering that I need. Sauce isn't a huge change btw.. lol
rx7ttlm is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:32 PM
  #1782  
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
 
TRXRACER99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,094
Trader Rating: 10 (92%+)
Default

trust me running on a track with about 0 traction you need about as much as you can get
TRXRACER99 is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:32 PM
  #1783  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
rx7ttlm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hanulec
mike
hey, are you going to fuel onroad nats?
rx7ttlm is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:34 PM
  #1784  
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Cow Town
Posts: 1,746
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
The NT1 gear diff conversion in the rear works very well, no problem all weekend long and very consistant performance.
Gary, you gotta hack up a pulley to do this though right?? Korgae mentioned it at the last WCICS. What other mods are required, do you have to run 50mm shafts?
pcar951 is offline  
Old 03-29-2010, 07:35 PM
  #1785  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
rx7ttlm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,521
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by TRXRACER99
trust me running on a track with about 0 traction you need about as much as you can get
true, but it depends on whats available for overall traction. The biggest component to making a car fast for me, is balance.... the grip can lick balls but just as long as your not drifting or plowing with the front. Lap times can be decent. Then you just mess with stuff for corner speed . That's how I do it anyhow.
rx7ttlm is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.