XRAY T3
#1141
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Can't say anything about Atomic ECS, but Xray 50mm worked for me well for one winter series with 10.5, then I switched to modified for summer and I didn't have to replace composite outdrives on spool at all. Now I'm running different brand of car also in modified so can't say how much longer it would last like this.
#1142
Where does the heatshrink go on the ECS driveshafts? Really need a photo to completely understand. Thanks.
#1144
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,784
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
Ditto on that one.
The Atomic ECS shafts are great, heaps cheaper too.
And like billjacobs said, no flat spot on the pins, so no manufactured weak point.
Still loctite the grub screws and use heatshrink over the centre piece. I have used them with a 4.5 with no problems, although I don't crash too often.
The Atomic ECS shafts are great, heaps cheaper too.
And like billjacobs said, no flat spot on the pins, so no manufactured weak point.
Still loctite the grub screws and use heatshrink over the centre piece. I have used them with a 4.5 with no problems, although I don't crash too often.
#1145
#1146
Tech Champion
iTrader: (38)
both myself and a friend have been running the 50mm atomic ecs shafts in composite drive cups without any problems. i run 10.5 and he runs 4.5.
if you guys are breaking stuff all the time then something is wrong. we loctite the grub screws and then also use heatshrink around the outside. not once has anything broken or even come loose.
if you guys are breaking stuff all the time then something is wrong. we loctite the grub screws and then also use heatshrink around the outside. not once has anything broken or even come loose.
#1147
Tech Adept
Whats the part# for the Atomic 50mm ECS shafts?? Thanks
#1148
#1149
hi guys
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it
@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
rs pro
spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
batt side
lrp 5300
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it
@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
rs pro
spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
batt side
lrp 5300
#1150
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.
As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.
Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
Last edited by TeamB&B; 12-16-2009 at 08:28 AM.
#1152
There is absolutely no need for heatshrink around the XRAY ECS. We have been running the ESC from day 1 every weekend with a spool with no problems. High grip, low grip asphalt, carpet, etc.
BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.
As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.
Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.
As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.
Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
I use heatshrink and no grub screws, just replace the heatshrink every couple of meets (and rebuild etc)
Skiddins
#1153
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (53)
There is absolutely no need for heatshrink around the XRAY ECS. We have been running the ESC from day 1 every weekend with a spool with no problems. High grip, low grip asphalt, carpet, etc.
BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.
As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.
Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
BTW, we have 3 ECS. 1 for a backup in case 1 goes bad during a race weekend.
As Paul Lemieux advises, build them right and use Loctite on the grub screws. Let the loctite dry overnight. Then never open them again. Just maintain and oil externally.
The heatshrink idea is from the LOSI LCD design. We had a JSX-R for 1 week and was not too impressed with putting heatshrink to keep a moving part together. The LOSI LCD has no grub screws that is why the heatshrink is needed. We also had to dremel-out an already weak C Hub so the LCD will fit. In other words - it is a Mickey Mouse design.
Jeez. Don't fix something that is not broken!!! Escpecially on a XRAY.
#1154
hi guys
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it
@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
rs pro
spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
batt side
lrp 5300
@atomic shafts
no parts available so when coupler pin holes worned out you have to bin it
@t3
Car feels great but not easy to balance with lipo...
my car needs 30grams of weight to balance!
total weight 1410grams where our goal is 1350!
008-009 better on that case just hangout the pack thanx to narrower chassis...
mi4lp chassis 92mm! But T3 chassis wider than 009!
my parts
Ko low profile servo
rs pro
spektrum sr3001 rx
amb trans.
ballistic 13.5
30mm fan attached to top deck no heatsink
batt side
lrp 5300
i use a full size KO propo servo and Bionic 5000 50c lipos , SPX , GM motor and Spektrum reciever , AMB transponder is in the front bumper , i do use a lightweight body though
#1155
I should move PT to Batt side or bumper