XRAY T3
08-23-2010, 12:29 PM
#2881
Tech Master
The Exotex Chassis works excellently for me. I only needed 10 grams to get it perfectly balanced, and some of this depends on electronics placement and etc. As EA said, battery tape installation takes some getting used too, but the tape will last longer. I know of a few others who are also very satisfied with this chassis. 
Sam
Sam
08-23-2010, 12:30 PM
#2882
I just got to run my Exotek chassis for the first time this weekend. It ran very well for me on our low bite track. It balanced very good and did not have to add any weights with a 17.5 motor to get it balanced....just the stock ones it comes with. The battery tape part of it takes a little getting used to but it works awesome once you learn how to run the tape and use it. 1 piece will probably last all week at the IIC!! LOL
EA
EA
EDIT: I shoulda elaborated a bit. You can't see it but each piece of tape is looped through and stuck onto itself and now I just use a small bit of tap to connect both pieces while the pack is in the car.
08-23-2010, 01:13 PM
#2883
Tech Adept
it drives good
The problem with the stock chassis is the battery side is 10mm wider then the motor side and the stock chassis is 2.5mm thick
I wanted a 2.0mm chassis and after speaking with Paul Lemieux i decided to build my own
Start of with the balance pin holes , drill them out with a 2mm drill hole then put an M2 bolt and nut through them then scribe the motor side of the chassis , turn the original chassis over and trace the motor side again so you have an equal left right chassis
Then cut it out with a Dremmel , cuttin out only the holes you need , diff,spool, and battery tape holes
Then drill out the holes for ONLY the hole you need this will give better control of flex , use a 3mm drill for this
Then countersink , this is where i made a silly mistake and drilled a hole too big when the countersink drill snatched the chassis from my hands
i used a piller drill for the holes , to make sure the holes were straight through the chassis , drilling through the original chassis
then for the motor resess i set the piller drill platform at 1mm below the side drill bit then mark the chassis where you want the motor resess then carefully cut away
chassis made
The problem with the stock chassis is the battery side is 10mm wider then the motor side and the stock chassis is 2.5mm thick
I wanted a 2.0mm chassis and after speaking with Paul Lemieux i decided to build my own
Start of with the balance pin holes , drill them out with a 2mm drill hole then put an M2 bolt and nut through them then scribe the motor side of the chassis , turn the original chassis over and trace the motor side again so you have an equal left right chassis
Then cut it out with a Dremmel , cuttin out only the holes you need , diff,spool, and battery tape holes
Then drill out the holes for ONLY the hole you need this will give better control of flex , use a 3mm drill for this
Then countersink , this is where i made a silly mistake and drilled a hole too big when the countersink drill snatched the chassis from my hands
i used a piller drill for the holes , to make sure the holes were straight through the chassis , drilling through the original chassis
then for the motor resess i set the piller drill platform at 1mm below the side drill bit then mark the chassis where you want the motor resess then carefully cut away
chassis made
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=30644
I still like the look of your chassis though, how does it perform compared to the exotek??
Last edited by michael.branth; 08-23-2010 at 01:15 PM. Reason: forgot attachment
08-23-2010, 01:17 PM
#2884
May be if you make another you could use one of these, the ball bearing would follow the OEM chassis whilst the bit would cut the CF. This is what Ill be using when I make mine.
I still like the look of your chassis though, how does it perform compared to the exotek??
I still like the look of your chassis though, how does it perform compared to the exotek??
none of the scraping on the battery side due to the thinner width i want a 3mm one for the carpet season coming up but i am thinking of taking some time out from the hobby and working some more
08-23-2010, 05:47 PM
#2885
OKAY
i will admit it, your final set-up is great
thank you guys helping Shesha with his set-up that was originally my set-up that was originally Paul lemieux's set-up
drove my T3 eater today and set the fastest lap on the track and also my personal best by 5 seconds and best lap time by 0.2s.
thank you all for making me beat all those T3s around me with my cheap T2R Pro
cheers
Ali
i will admit it, your final set-up is great
thank you guys helping Shesha with his set-up that was originally my set-up that was originally Paul lemieux's set-up
drove my T3 eater
today and set the fastest lap on the track and also my personal best by 5 seconds and best lap time by 0.2s.thank you all for making me beat all those T3s around me with my cheap T2R Pro
cheers
Ali
Hanulec the steering post recommendation spot on bro shaved even more of the laptime today, will see tommorrow, did not run plenty today maybe 4 packs only, spent most of the time setting up other drivers cars, and the rear diff decided to die on me today, so in with a new one, out with the old one.
Steering post recommendation really made the steering more predictable especially on the high grip track we have now.
08-23-2010, 05:59 PM
#2886
Shesha - I think I got to move in order to get track time like you. Right now the nearest operating carpet track is 140+ miles away and two others 180+ miles away. Our seasonal carpet track is 87 miles away. Clearly I'm doing something wrong 
08-23-2010, 06:19 PM
#2887
Mike your more then welcome to come try our track just 70,000 miles away from your i think....
I'll try to take my handy cam tomorrow get some vids of our guys and myself running.
I think by the end of this week most of us will be pushing 3.5 Turns for sure. Then we are talking....
just 70,000 miles away from your i think....I'll try to take my handy cam tomorrow get some vids of our guys and myself running.
I think by the end of this week most of us will be pushing 3.5 Turns for sure. Then we are talking....
08-23-2010, 06:23 PM
#2888
08-23-2010, 06:30 PM
#2889
08-23-2010, 06:46 PM
#2891
Perhaps;
Remove rear pillars, bit more droop, i.e. 6-5 or even 5-4
Maybe softer front springs. The harder springs might be making the front end hook too much.
Remove some of the steering lock, down to 75% instead of using full lock.
Certainly add rear upper shims, to 3 or 4mm.
Stop trying to copy the 009 setup exactly, the suspension geometry, particularly the rear is different. 4mm on the T3 is almost the same as 2mm on the 009 as the rear upper link mounts higher on the inside on the T3.
Put both cars side by side and look at the back and you will see what I mean.
Skiddins
Remove rear pillars, bit more droop, i.e. 6-5 or even 5-4
Maybe softer front springs. The harder springs might be making the front end hook too much.
Remove some of the steering lock, down to 75% instead of using full lock.
Certainly add rear upper shims, to 3 or 4mm.
Stop trying to copy the 009 setup exactly, the suspension geometry, particularly the rear is different. 4mm on the T3 is almost the same as 2mm on the 009 as the rear upper link mounts higher on the inside on the T3.
Put both cars side by side and look at the back and you will see what I mean.
Skiddins
08-23-2010, 06:49 PM
#2892
08-23-2010, 06:58 PM
#2894
I just got to run my Exotek chassis for the first time this weekend. It ran very well for me on our low bite track. It balanced very good and did not have to add any weights with a 17.5 motor to get it balanced....just the stock ones it comes with. The battery tape part of it takes a little getting used to but it works awesome once you learn how to run the tape and use it. 1 piece will probably last all week at the IIC!! LOL
EA
EA
Which Exotek chassis did you get? With the steel battery holders or the carbon fiber ones?
Bill
08-23-2010, 06:58 PM
#2895
