Originally Posted by gameover
I understand it is a curve i am familiar with them for full size chassis work. Seriously, now i am learning something new. Occasionally i have noticed that things don't work out the way i intended (the opposite) and i put it down to me not interpreting the result correctly or not being in touch with the feel of the car on that day or something. But it would seem if what you say is true then it all becomes clear. I still have some confusion on rollbars but it would seem maybe i still get understeer because of the less roll and less tire loading rather than tire overloading, possibly same result but for different reasons.
Do you have any RC tire data? I'd love to build an RC sized test rig to test it, i had some crazy idea's involving a belt sander and some strain gauges, lol!
Thanks for the tip, i need to get down to the track to try some of this out. I think you've just increased the fun factor for me by a million
That would be a worthwile exploit for the sake of science and fun, but needs to be very well constrained and you would need to calibrate you rig somehow, and that's the difficult part.
In practice, I started questioning the common wisdom when I realised that one of our best guys (state champion) had a lot more roll in his car then everybody else and his car handled best (very much like a real car) as opposed to the others who had almost no roll and their cars were handling "point and shoot" which meant they always lost in the corners to this guy.
This tipped me to the fact that our tires work better with some roll allowed. I have tuned my cars accordingly and guess what. It works.
Watch the cars going by (especially in the corners) when you're marshalling and you'll catch on a lot of little details about their handling.
Cool news about the price. If the ozzy dollar keeps going up, we might even be able to afford this new kit! 008 is still available around here for 680AU$. Now that's 620US$ at today's rate! Talk about supporting the local shops.