Starting an equal "spec" class
09-16-2009, 06:57 PM
#16
If you don't have gentlemen in the class just add a claimer rule. That usually slows down the cheaters.
09-16-2009, 08:44 PM
#17
We are running a Gentlemen HPI cup class.
Kit= $200
esc= $40 phazer 15t
Motor= $15 silver can
Battery= $40 2400 orion
Radio= whatever you have
We run the kits stock except for shock oil. This is done by the racers not the track. Like I said GENTLEMEN. the only problem is if you blow a corner you start prying for someone to hit a flapper so you can get some lost track back. Only 4 cars right now but its growing.
If you make it to Austin Tx come and get some Spec Hpi Cup racing. Our hobby store carried the ESC and motor in store.
Kit= $200
esc= $40 phazer 15t
Motor= $15 silver can
Battery= $40 2400 orion
Radio= whatever you have
We run the kits stock except for shock oil. This is done by the racers not the track. Like I said GENTLEMEN. the only problem is if you blow a corner you start prying for someone to hit a flapper so you can get some lost track back. Only 4 cars right now but its growing.
If you make it to Austin Tx come and get some Spec Hpi Cup racing. Our hobby store carried the ESC and motor in store.
09-16-2009, 09:43 PM
#18
09-16-2009, 10:10 PM
#19
What is a claimer rule?
Spec classes work either by adhering to "gentlemen rules" or by handing out everything. Allowing anyone to buy or swap their motor with the fastest driver might work too.
Recently, some people claim the hobbywing BL systems have evened out the field in mini racing, but I am pretty sure the same claim has been made a long time ago with silvercans before people started buying a hundred of them to get a freakishly fast one, or started cranking rotors or what else. Sooner or later anything can be hacked into and "doped".
Spec classes work either by adhering to "gentlemen rules" or by handing out everything. Allowing anyone to buy or swap their motor with the fastest driver might work too.
Recently, some people claim the hobbywing BL systems have evened out the field in mini racing, but I am pretty sure the same claim has been made a long time ago with silvercans before people started buying a hundred of them to get a freakishly fast one, or started cranking rotors or what else. Sooner or later anything can be hacked into and "doped".
09-16-2009, 10:29 PM
#20
Walk into the hobby srore by a new item(whatever your claiming) esc, motor or battery and take or to whoever you wish to claim and hand it to them. They either swap or go home. If you do cash then after the race night you walk over and buy the driver stuff you want at a set price (retail). If he refuses he doesn't run in the spec class anymore.
Like I said we are lucky and that the guys running this class views it as a fun class. I run pro 17.5 and nitro mod also. So this is a class that we can laugh and have fun with. We will all stop and wait for people also just to help keep it close and make it look go for our fans.
Just pure fun.
Like I said we are lucky and that the guys running this class views it as a fun class. I run pro 17.5 and nitro mod also. So this is a class that we can laugh and have fun with. We will all stop and wait for people also just to help keep it close and make it look go for our fans.
Just pure fun.
09-17-2009, 08:44 AM
#23
Spec classes
We run a very popular spec TT-01 class (about 20-25 cars), with the intention to keep it cheap and equal. We ended up with the following:
Racers can use any stock TT-01 kit. The most popular being the "D" kit, for obvious reasons. No touring car bodies...
The only allowable substitution are shocks - we have some top runners actually using the friction "dampers" though.
Stock drivetrain (no ball diffs, etc.), fixed gearing (19T pinion, 61T spur gear), and Mabuchi Sport Tuned motors. Stock Tamiya ESC (TEU-101BK) and spec batteries (we originally ran Venom 3300 nimhs, but we recently opened this up to include mini-compatable 2s lipos, like the Orion 2400 / 3400).
We limit the tires to the following:
Racing Slicks (Tamiya 50454)
Racing Radials (Tamiya 50419)
Racing Semi-Slicks (Tamiya 50810)
This results in extremely close racing (top lap times within tenth's of a second). We run on a fairly small track (36' x 60') have found that any variation in the motors is outweighed by proper car setup and driver skill.
www.karz.ca
Racers can use any stock TT-01 kit. The most popular being the "D" kit, for obvious reasons. No touring car bodies...
The only allowable substitution are shocks - we have some top runners actually using the friction "dampers" though.
Stock drivetrain (no ball diffs, etc.), fixed gearing (19T pinion, 61T spur gear), and Mabuchi Sport Tuned motors. Stock Tamiya ESC (TEU-101BK) and spec batteries (we originally ran Venom 3300 nimhs, but we recently opened this up to include mini-compatable 2s lipos, like the Orion 2400 / 3400).
We limit the tires to the following:
Racing Slicks (Tamiya 50454)
Racing Radials (Tamiya 50419)
Racing Semi-Slicks (Tamiya 50810)
This results in extremely close racing (top lap times within tenth's of a second). We run on a fairly small track (36' x 60') have found that any variation in the motors is outweighed by proper car setup and driver skill.
www.karz.ca
09-17-2009, 08:45 AM
#24
09-17-2009, 09:44 AM
#25
Tech Elite
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Senior Spec works. It really works. Key pieces are fixed gearing, limited option parts, spec tires and handout motors. The electronics and batteries don't make much difference when you control the tires, motor and gearing. IN our case we used TT01's because we were able to get them in bulk for about $100 with a speed control. People only had to buy spec tires (few had to actually buy equipment, since practically anything on hand was good enough for this class) and the tires that came with the kit couldbe used for the TCS regional events (we did SS at two local events plus Memphis- very popular).
At the end of the day the guys who participated in SS learned to drive better, be more patient, and make their cars more efficient in the corners. This year we're adding a Mini Spec class using pretty much the same idea.
At the end of the day the guys who participated in SS learned to drive better, be more patient, and make their cars more efficient in the corners. This year we're adding a Mini Spec class using pretty much the same idea.
09-17-2009, 09:57 AM
#27
Walk into the hobby srore by a new item(whatever your claiming) esc, motor or battery and take or to whoever you wish to claim and hand it to them. They either swap or go home. If you do cash then after the race night you walk over and buy the driver stuff you want at a set price (retail). If he refuses he doesn't run in the spec class anymore.
Like I said we are lucky and that the guys running this class views it as a fun class. I run pro 17.5 and nitro mod also. So this is a class that we can laugh and have fun with. We will all stop and wait for people also just to help keep it close and make it look go for our fans.
Just pure fun.
Like I said we are lucky and that the guys running this class views it as a fun class. I run pro 17.5 and nitro mod also. So this is a class that we can laugh and have fun with. We will all stop and wait for people also just to help keep it close and make it look go for our fans.
Just pure fun.
OK. I get it. They have this kind of race in Finland with real cars. Anyone can buy anyone else's car for 50$. This is to force people not to waste any money on car tuning and such but rather develop skills. Anyone can show up at the track with whatever car they want as long as they understand they might have to sell it for 50$ after the race. Needless to say it is extremely popular with people of all ages professions and so on. Little wonder so many top drivers of all flavours come from Finland.
09-17-2009, 12:21 PM
#28
There are two clubs within 30min driving distance from my home. The one club that I race at is completely spec with two specific classes.
Tamiya TT-01d - everything comes in the box, no hop ups allowed, black can motor, teu101bk speed controller, lipo allowed but limited to 3600mah 25c capacity, tamiya tires only.
Tamiya Mini (M03, M04, M05 Chassis) - silver can with any brushed controller, lipo limited to 3600mah 25c capacity, tamiya tires only.
By limiting the motors, batteries, chassis, tires used it has really made it a drivers club. It's attractive for people wanting to come out and racing and not have to chase technology.
Most of the time it comes down to having the best setup, lifting the throttle in the wrong spots, Getting in a crash or stuffing the car a couple of times between making the a-main or not at the end of the night.
Even the nimh cars are competitive as the motors are not hot enough to actually even use the lipo batteries to the fullest.
Tamiya TT-01d - everything comes in the box, no hop ups allowed, black can motor, teu101bk speed controller, lipo allowed but limited to 3600mah 25c capacity, tamiya tires only.
Tamiya Mini (M03, M04, M05 Chassis) - silver can with any brushed controller, lipo limited to 3600mah 25c capacity, tamiya tires only.
By limiting the motors, batteries, chassis, tires used it has really made it a drivers club. It's attractive for people wanting to come out and racing and not have to chase technology.
Most of the time it comes down to having the best setup, lifting the throttle in the wrong spots, Getting in a crash or stuffing the car a couple of times between making the a-main or not at the end of the night.
Even the nimh cars are competitive as the motors are not hot enough to actually even use the lipo batteries to the fullest.
09-19-2009, 05:00 AM
#29
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
A claimer rule just creates a big mess . The theory is there but it won't work in the real world.
As far as someone stating that SPEC just meant cheating , then tell me which class has no cheating ? There isn't one.
Having been around this sport for twenty plus years I've seen a lot of people come and go.
The number one reason is that "the competition has better equipment than I do".
If thats true or not it's easier to say than " They can drive better than me "
All that said , the Only way to have a spec class thrive is to have a total commitment that everything is the same . An " IROC " type of system.
-Pick an inexpensive base line vehicle , maybe an S/K ?
-Have strict motor , battery , charger , tires , gear ratio , body , ect rules !
-Motors and the one battery to use that race day are to be impounded at the end of the event. Next race , the motors and batteries are drawn randomly from a sealed box. Let's assume a simple 2400 nicad pack to keep the price down , then all packs would have the same connector and would be discharged with a resistor untill the next event.
-Most tracks miss this next rule. Don't let the racer with the GFX or equivalent charger compete in SPEC ! You charge a pack at 10 amps and another a 5 amps and you've just ruined everything your trying to accomplish.
The charger must be mandated! That's the fuel ! If the racers bock then too bad , go race a different division. Find a non-adjustible peak charger that will charge at 3-5 amps and if you have to , make a charge table for that division to monitor the vehicles.
A good idea is to not allow the battery to come out of the vehicle all race day.
- As a summary , SPEC is great but most tracks find that to enforce these rules takes alot of work. Well , do you want racers or not.
TRACK OWNERS ,, EVERY CLASS IN R/C NEEDS THE RULES ENFORCED BETTER
As far as someone stating that SPEC just meant cheating , then tell me which class has no cheating ? There isn't one.
Having been around this sport for twenty plus years I've seen a lot of people come and go.
The number one reason is that "the competition has better equipment than I do".
If thats true or not it's easier to say than " They can drive better than me "
All that said , the Only way to have a spec class thrive is to have a total commitment that everything is the same . An " IROC " type of system.
-Pick an inexpensive base line vehicle , maybe an S/K ?
-Have strict motor , battery , charger , tires , gear ratio , body , ect rules !
-Motors and the one battery to use that race day are to be impounded at the end of the event. Next race , the motors and batteries are drawn randomly from a sealed box. Let's assume a simple 2400 nicad pack to keep the price down , then all packs would have the same connector and would be discharged with a resistor untill the next event.
-Most tracks miss this next rule. Don't let the racer with the GFX or equivalent charger compete in SPEC ! You charge a pack at 10 amps and another a 5 amps and you've just ruined everything your trying to accomplish.
The charger must be mandated! That's the fuel ! If the racers bock then too bad , go race a different division. Find a non-adjustible peak charger that will charge at 3-5 amps and if you have to , make a charge table for that division to monitor the vehicles.
A good idea is to not allow the battery to come out of the vehicle all race day.
- As a summary , SPEC is great but most tracks find that to enforce these rules takes alot of work. Well , do you want racers or not.
TRACK OWNERS ,, EVERY CLASS IN R/C NEEDS THE RULES ENFORCED BETTER