1568LikesPro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion
11-23-2011, 10:32 PM
#437
Go to the Ultimate Car Page:
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/304/Mazda-787B.html
Mazdas and more!!
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/304/Mazda-787B.html
Mazdas and more!!
11-23-2011, 10:38 PM
#438
Yeah but not in 200 or 235MM
regards Roy
regards Roy
Go to the Ultimate Car Page:
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/304/Mazda-787B.html
Mazdas and more!!
http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/304/Mazda-787B.html
Mazdas and more!!
11-23-2011, 11:12 PM
#439
I believe Tamiya made one, but good luck finding one.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...azda-787b.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...azda-787b.html
11-24-2011, 05:05 PM
#441
anyone have info on what's needed to install the irs axle kit in a rc10l2? does it go together like the stock rc10l2 axle or like a crc, etc...? do i need axle spacers or is it the correct size to not need spacers? does it use a diff thrust cone and belleville washers, etc...? is the spur bearing a flanged bearing?
11-25-2011, 12:24 AM
#442
With the IRS axle you only uses an axle spacer on the left side where the clamping hub is (like in the manual). If you have the long clamping hub it should be a direct fit.
If you don't have the axle spacer look the number up in the L2 manual. They are still availlable.
You can use extra washers to space the wheels evenly but it seems pretty spot on.
Originaly the L2 came with a diff thruts cone and bellivile washers but i don't really like them. As the hole inside the washers is bigger then the axle they never seem to sit 100% ontop of eachother and it seems that the pressure on the ballbearing is not even then. The diff action was only good after a few tries to let the washers sit more even on eachother. The washers also flatten after a while. Maybe others have other opinion on the washers or maybe i did something wrong.
I tossed them out and tried a more simpler solution. I use an axle spacer that came with the kit with the nylon locknut and that is it. It is very smooth and easy. It is not high tech but it is really very consistent. Just be sure to screw the locknut on the axle as straight as possible. After a days racing just uncrew the locknut so the presure is off the ballbearing.
When the diff still feels gritty after a rebuild put a new bearing in (or swap the bearings in the diff hub around) and it feels very smooth again. Only if you get hit against teh axle the diff can get gritty, when not it will stay good for several races.
I am the only one in our group that is doing it this way. The rest is using the slapmaster etc. I can say that my diff feels as good as someone elses with a slapmaster. That said... the diff in the corally cars are always better
You can use a flanged bearing in the spur but i think the flang is maybe little to thick. I got better feeling with a non-flanged bearing and a thin washer (to allign the bearing better in the spur).
If you don't have the axle spacer look the number up in the L2 manual. They are still availlable.
You can use extra washers to space the wheels evenly but it seems pretty spot on.
Originaly the L2 came with a diff thruts cone and bellivile washers but i don't really like them. As the hole inside the washers is bigger then the axle they never seem to sit 100% ontop of eachother and it seems that the pressure on the ballbearing is not even then. The diff action was only good after a few tries to let the washers sit more even on eachother. The washers also flatten after a while. Maybe others have other opinion on the washers or maybe i did something wrong.
I tossed them out and tried a more simpler solution. I use an axle spacer that came with the kit with the nylon locknut and that is it. It is very smooth and easy. It is not high tech but it is really very consistent. Just be sure to screw the locknut on the axle as straight as possible. After a days racing just uncrew the locknut so the presure is off the ballbearing.
When the diff still feels gritty after a rebuild put a new bearing in (or swap the bearings in the diff hub around) and it feels very smooth again. Only if you get hit against teh axle the diff can get gritty, when not it will stay good for several races.
I am the only one in our group that is doing it this way. The rest is using the slapmaster etc. I can say that my diff feels as good as someone elses with a slapmaster. That said... the diff in the corally cars are always better
You can use a flanged bearing in the spur but i think the flang is maybe little to thick. I got better feeling with a non-flanged bearing and a thin washer (to allign the bearing better in the spur).
12-01-2011, 12:28 AM
#444
Front, I do not know.
12-05-2011, 11:02 AM
#445
Tech Regular
Team Associated RC10R5
To start with, what chassis do you have? I just got the IRS wide pod axle set for my 10r5 and it works great. I just had to shim the diff side out 4mm between the diff and pod bearing and get a 15mm st/st tube spacer made to go on the other side with the standard clamping hub. Works a treat. now just waiting for my front widening parts to come in from Full Option.
On another note has anyone used the McAllister Pro10 body as listed on Stormerhobbies. https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA146
On another note has anyone used the McAllister Pro10 body as listed on Stormerhobbies. https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...c=cs&pn=MCA146
What IRS part numbers exactly? (because you refer to "set")
I mean not just the axle.
What shims to use? (how many, kind of material and so on)
Tube spacer is home made, or is it an original AE part?
What does "st/st" mean?
Thanks.
Best Regards,
Ken Sei
12-06-2011, 02:02 AM
#446
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Hi Bumpy,
What IRS part numbers exactly? (because you refer to "set")http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_ id=59. Go into the 'Axles and Axle kits' section and you will find the '1/10th graphite pro axle kit - blue'. Thats the one I bought.
I mean not just the axle.
What shims to use? (how many, kind of material and so on)http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1576_699/products_id/35065/n/XRAY-Aluminum-Rear-Track-Adjustment-Shims-05mm-10mm-20mm
Tube spacer is home made, or is it an original AE part?The 15mm long tube spacer was machined up by an engineer friend of mine
What does "st/st" mean?Stainless Steel
Thanks.
Best Regards,
Ken Sei
What IRS part numbers exactly? (because you refer to "set")http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_ id=59. Go into the 'Axles and Axle kits' section and you will find the '1/10th graphite pro axle kit - blue'. Thats the one I bought.
I mean not just the axle.
What shims to use? (how many, kind of material and so on)http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1576_699/products_id/35065/n/XRAY-Aluminum-Rear-Track-Adjustment-Shims-05mm-10mm-20mm
Tube spacer is home made, or is it an original AE part?The 15mm long tube spacer was machined up by an engineer friend of mine
What does "st/st" mean?Stainless Steel
Thanks.
Best Regards,
Ken Sei
Last edited by Bumpy; 12-06-2011 at 02:07 AM. Reason: additional info.
12-06-2011, 06:14 AM
#448
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
Hi guys, my RC10L2 has been sitting there awaiting new shaft, meanwhile i saw a corally c10x going at attractive price, shoud i get it?? how is the online part support of corally?? is there commonality between AE parts and corally parts like axle,bearing? thanks!
12-06-2011, 10:08 AM
#449
Tech Regular