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Old 07-02-2014, 01:17 AM   #1441
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Is the center screw on t-bar in or out?
Out
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:13 AM   #1442
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On power corner exit the rear breaks loose. Also does not feel stable off power in corner entry (the rear will snap loose). I think I may need to try a different rear tire. Rear wheels are also equal distance from the center-line of the car. Rear track width is about 231mm. Pod is level. What diameter circle are you guys generally using for EPA adjustment?
Well first google rc10l2 setup sheets if you haven't already. You will find many from MarkA. It helped me realise that most setups aren't wildly different for any given track.

Natural rubber foam are the way for asphalt tracks nowadays. Not sure if you guys spray or not but overhere we don't spray the tracks.

-too much steering throw to go through the corners. The less throw to go through the corner the better. I try to have 50-60% steering throw. With too much steering throw there is a higher chance of rear snapping loose on power. This usually means building more steering in but in the end it makes for a more stable car.

-raise the front higher than the rear. 0,5 to 1mm in relation to the back. It helps the L2 out of the corner and corner entry is more stable.

-always run toe out. Measure it to be sure that it is slightly toe out and not toe in. out of experience i can say that eyeballing it doesn't always work . Toe in messed my rc10L2 up big time with weird behaviour on the straight and out of the corners.

-no droop in the front, no droop makes the car more stable.
-1mm or less droop at the back measured at the back of the chassis.
-I can recommend making a rc10l2.5 with either side shocks or tubes. You can google it. MarkA has done a DIY about it with a rc10l3 backend but with a new topplate your done. (or drilling two holes)

-if you run without tweak screws and you need a little more steering out of the corner build in more steering with a harder center spring. On uneven or bumpy surface running without tweek screws can lower the laptimes but use heavier lube to dampen the side to side movement. (rc10l2.5 with side tubes)

-check binding front suspension and faulty bearings if you haven't already.
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:25 AM   #1443
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Anyone know how to resolve a RC10L2 from spinning out on power? Its not after immediate power input but it just gets to a point where the car can not support the power and spins out. 10.5 boosted on asphalt. Im used to a car that feels glued to the track and this just feels very floaty and sketchy on power. I have turned the speedo punch down to 80% and added Neg expo on the throttle curve of the radio.

.20 front spring
Jaco Purple front and White rear. Half the front sauced and full rear.
Ride height is 5mm forward and back.
Silver Center Spring w/ 30wt oil.

I ran a RC10L2 back in the early 2000's with 19t motors and never had an issue. I'm not sure what the problem is. Tweak is spot on as well. Battery position was tried forward and back. Back was better. I never really liked the "natural rubbers" on asphalt so I may try Green. I used to have success with that as a rear tire. But its firmer and seems to be opposite of what people are running with Lipo batteries. The local club runs 1s 10.5 boosted so I have two packs strapped in and only plug in one at a time.

Thanks for any input,

Roger
Roger,

One thing to try would be to raise the front of the center shock up (make it more level) this will make the center shock feel softer too and add rear grip. I would trying raising it .250 or more, make a change you can feel.

The main thing I notice is tires, white rears are not a common tire choice for asphalt and wear quickly. I would suggest a dbl pink or similar compound and not putting any sauce on the front tires at all. One thing you noted was trying green foam, this must be an old tire cause the company that made that foam went out of business many years ago. The current green and blue compound that is sold by BSR is a different foam all together than what we used several years ago. This newer blue and green might work better for you and has shown good results on asphalt.

BSR also sent some new pro-10 foam tires to our Germany distributor M.I.X Corally for testing. I am not sure if they have sold them all or how the testing went, so if anyone in Germany that runs BSR tires has any feed back please share.

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Old 07-02-2014, 10:16 AM   #1444
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OK, this will sound weird, but when you said the car is unstable going into the corner, I had a Lucas Pro-10 back in the day that did the same thing. It turned out it was too soft, dragging the center of the chassis on corner entry and the edges on exit. Try a stiffer center spring or some really heavy silicone in the damper. Might work.
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:46 AM   #1445
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Anyone know how to resolve a RC10L2 from spinning out on power? Its not after immediate power input but it just gets to a point where the car can not support the power and spins out. 10.5 boosted on asphalt. Im used to a car that feels glued to the track and this just feels very floaty and sketchy on power. I have turned the speedo punch down to 80% and added Neg expo on the throttle curve of the radio.

.20 front spring
Jaco Purple front and White rear. Half the front sauced and full rear.
Ride height is 5mm forward and back.
Silver Center Spring w/ 30wt oil.

I ran a RC10L2 back in the early 2000's with 19t motors and never had an issue. I'm not sure what the problem is. Tweak is spot on as well. Battery position was tried forward and back. Back was better. I never really liked the "natural rubbers" on asphalt so I may try Green. I used to have success with that as a rear tire. But its firmer and seems to be opposite of what people are running with Lipo batteries. The local club runs 1s 10.5 boosted so I have two packs strapped in and only plug in one at a time.

Thanks for any input,

Roger
Camarillo I assume?

As mentioned above, tire compounds have changed - what we used to call Green back in the day is no longer what you'd expect. I assume other compounds have changed as well so you'll have to figure those out.

Is this a dampner disk car and not one that has the tri-shock conversion?
If it is disk, no inserts around the post or anything else to slow that upper action?

There was one thing I always did for Camarillo - big tires. Meaning really large diameter ones, 2.40"ish even. The ability to get some foam flex there really helped as I assume it suddenly hasn't gone from the lowest grip track we used to run on in the area to higher.

Also as mentioned above, run the front higher than the rear.

Take off your lower pod plate and make sure it isn't bent/tweaked in anyway.

Now racing mod OffRoad buggy as my primary form of RC, this is something I hear alot in that class from other people trying to dial in for a limited grip situation:
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Originally Posted by RAL View Post
Its not after immediate power input but it just gets to a point where the car can not support the power and spins out.
I've learned that it happens alot when you double up on reducing speedo punch and then adding negative expo. It creates a "catch point" where the ESC goes from nothing happening to instant-on and a car that is otherwise accelerating fine suddenly spins. I would try the car with expo linear and dial it in off the punch alone. As well, since you are running boosted, make sure you have no delay on the turbo/boost settings.

I only wish I had the problem of trying to dial-in a Pro10 car these days...
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:27 PM   #1446
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Camarillo I assume?

As mentioned above, tire compounds have changed - what we used to call Green back in the day is no longer what you'd expect. I assume other compounds have changed as well so you'll have to figure those out.

Is this a dampner disk car and not one that has the tri-shock conversion?
If it is disk, no inserts around the post or anything else to slow that upper action?

There was one thing I always did for Camarillo - big tires. Meaning really large diameter ones, 2.40"ish even. The ability to get some foam flex there really helped as I assume it suddenly hasn't gone from the lowest grip track we used to run on in the area to higher.

Also as mentioned above, run the front higher than the rear.

Take off your lower pod plate and make sure it isn't bent/tweaked in anyway.

Now racing mod OffRoad buggy as my primary form of RC, this is something I hear alot in that class from other people trying to dial in for a limited grip situation:

I've learned that it happens alot when you double up on reducing speedo punch and then adding negative expo. It creates a "catch point" where the ESC goes from nothing happening to instant-on and a car that is otherwise accelerating fine suddenly spins. I would try the car with expo linear and dial it in off the punch alone. As well, since you are running boosted, make sure you have no delay on the turbo/boost settings.

I only wish I had the problem of trying to dial-in a Pro10 car these days...
Yes Mark, Cam was the track. Touring car was dialed in and I ended up 5th in 13.5 Expert Stock and 2nd in RCGT at their annual "big race" which had a record attendance of 150 plus entries this year! I miss the days of my dialed Pro10 following you around that track No inserts in the disk. And yes no mods with side tubes. Some are running a BSR "pearl white" one softer then white and is the softest available rear foam tire in the US that I know of. To your point about foam compound... The RC10L2 I bought came with the original box and kit tires. The kits green foam was WAYYYYYYY softer then the Jaco greens I purchased. I will try a few of everyone's suggestions and see what happens.

Here is a video of the A2 Mod TC race just for a track reference. Areas to note that were troublesome were sweeper exit, the short chicane following the S turn after the sweeper under power. Also the long S turn going diagonally through the the track going back towards the right corner of the track. Also coming onto the straight. The car has to be essentially be pointed perfectly straight for power delivery.

Thanks for everyone's help!

http://youtu.be/Fe110lvAIME
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:34 PM   #1447
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Roger,

One thing to try would be to raise the front of the center shock up (make it more level) this will make the center shock feel softer too and add rear grip. I would trying raising it .250 or more, make a change you can feel.

The main thing I notice is tires, white rears are not a common tire choice for asphalt and wear quickly. I would suggest a dbl pink or similar compound and not putting any sauce on the front tires at all. One thing you noted was trying green foam, this must be an old tire cause the company that made that foam went out of business many years ago. The current green and blue compound that is sold by BSR is a different foam all together than what we used several years ago. This newer blue and green might work better for you and has shown good results on asphalt.

BSR also sent some new pro-10 foam tires to our Germany distributor M.I.X Corally for testing. I am not sure if they have sold them all or how the testing went, so if anyone in Germany that runs BSR tires has any feed back please share.

Monti
Interesting! And noted! Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:51 PM   #1448
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Old school greens should be good

Cam isn't so nice for foams, since it was sealed

None of the pro-10 cars looked especially hooked up mid-day
Not too bad at happy hour though
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:55 PM   #1449
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Old school greens should be good

Cam isn't so nice for foams, since it was sealed

None of the pro-10 cars looked especially hooked up mid-day
Not too bad at happy hour though
For sure Dave. Although the happiest of hours Saturday evening my car was still ill. Of the bunch, mine was hurting most thats for sure. I was only contending with the track/my own car and trying not to spin out. Or be a hazard to the other racers.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:17 PM   #1450
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FWIW, my 10L2 Camarillo setup from many, many years ago is still up on Petitrc: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...rk20020421.pdf Probably nothing there that will be an "aha" type of moment but it was a fun trip down memory lane for me to see all my, mostly still mis-labeled as "oval" even, setups on that site.
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:11 PM   #1451
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Old school greens should be good

Cam isn't so nice for foams, since it was sealed

None of the pro-10 cars looked especially hooked up mid-day
Not too bad at happy hour though
Saturday Nights last qualifier was like running on on carpet......so much fun!!
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:07 PM   #1452
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Saturday Nights last qualifier was like running on on carpet......so much fun!!
The BD7 felt like a 12th scale around 8pm out there
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:42 PM   #1453
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FWIW, my 10L2 Camarillo setup from many, many years ago is still up on Petitrc: http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/asso...rk20020421.pdf Probably nothing there that will be an "aha" type of moment but it was a fun trip down memory lane for me to see all my, mostly still mis-labeled as "oval" even, setups on that site.
Oh don't worry Mark, those have already been thoroughly dissected upon restoration of this car. That's how I chose the oil for the shock.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:39 AM   #1454
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Some are running a BSR "pearl white" one softer then white and is the softest available rear foam tire in the US that I know of.
BSR X-compound is the softest and would offer more grip than pearl white. Please note that just because the tire is softer that you will not always have more rear grip. Most times running a firmer tire will help make the car feel more stable since there is less flex/give from the side wall of the tires.

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Old 07-03-2014, 10:28 AM   #1455
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I only wish I had the problem of trying to dial-in a Pro10 car these days...
Throwback Thursday for you Mark

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