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Old 05-08-2014, 07:42 AM   #1381
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The fiberglass/epoxy will flex much more than carbon before breaking. Since the T-bar is supposed to flex, fiberglass is the better material.

Spring steel is sometimes also used.
pole vaulters use carbon poles now !
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Old 05-08-2014, 07:47 AM   #1382
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I have always wanted to race a 235mm wide pan car. Are there any new 235mm wide kits available to buy?
Serpent S100 with pro-10 Upgrade Set

http://www.petitrc.com/_forumphp/sho...LT-Pro10-235mm
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Old 05-08-2014, 08:14 AM   #1383
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pole vaulters use carbon poles now !
I didn't know that! I'd guess that the filaments in the poles are laid in a directional pattern that optimizes flex and strength in the directions required. We don't have that choice; the sheet material available to us is usually a weave.

If you can lay up carbon graphite, this sounds like a fun thing for experimentation!

Personally, though, I would spend my time doing a link suspension.
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Old 05-08-2014, 12:54 PM   #1384
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i have seen drivers run carbon T-bars but have never used them myself. It went very good but it might be quite specialised in setup I think. Epoxy t-bar has a wider setup window where it runs good. It is a tuning option either way.

One point though, epoxy T-bars can flex up and down and with tweek screws twist around center. In high speed corners and with mod motors there is a chance the epoxy t-bar flexes sideways horizontaly as well when the backend tries to follow the front. In modified they used carbon t-bars to withstand the horizontal twisting.

It is all theory though as last year in a modified pro10 race (28 drivers) there was a corally T-bar car (epoxy t-bar) with a a peugeot HD body against the newest pro10's with lola's. He was 2nd place in qualification and would have a good chance to have a high podium finish if his batteries weren't going flat after 4.5 minutes.
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Old 05-08-2014, 06:58 PM   #1385
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pole vaulters use carbon poles now !
Actually, Seagren's graphite/epoxy pole was banned at the 72' Olympics. (then reinstated and then banned again. sort of like the D3.5! ) the east german's whined that the pole was not available on the market for a long enough time. (despite there being no rule on this topic)

regarding the use of fiberglass/epoxy vs graphite/epoxy laminates. for the same stiffness, the gr/ep will be thinner lighter and more fragile. glass/ep is very tough but heavier, more flexible and not as sexy in appearance ( a truly undervalued attribute!)

it would seem if you want more flex then a glass t-bar might be stronger and more durable, but if more stiffness is desired then the gr/ep part will be lighter.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:54 AM   #1386
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Sounds like we need the fiberglass/epoxy t-bar in BLACK! Problem solved! ☺
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:54 AM   #1387
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Sounds like we need the fiberglass/epoxy t-bar in BLACK! Problem solved! ☺
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Old 05-25-2014, 03:47 AM   #1388
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Questions?? 235mm outlaw

hi guys i live in Sydney Australia and we don't have a pro 10 class here to my knowledge. however we do run a class of car that is similar but different, we run 200 to 235mm lola type pan car bodies on converted 1/10 4wd touring cars unlimited tyre choice ( foams mainly ) it is just a class of go as fast as you can, the only limitations are 540 motor and 7.4v batteries. the cars are extremely fast and our biggest hurdle is heat build up, we only run 5 minute races but with all wheel drive traction and slightly heavier cars our electrical current levels are probably higher then what you guys experience in pro 10. my question is to anybody who knows
( or cares ) is how will your dedicated 1/10 2wd pan cars go against our hybrid awd touring cars?, the reason i ask is i know i can get my 1/12th pan car around quite well and will a larger version ( your pro 10s ) be the solution to our heat problems? i am just trying to get an advantage as there is no rule that says no pan cars, yes i realise i wont be able to bury the throttle as early as i have the luxury of doing now but i could theoretically run insane top end speeds and our track being an outdoor gas type track has a few speed sections. So if anyone has tried or knows about comparisons between the 2 cars any advice would be greatly appreciated
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Old 05-25-2014, 10:22 AM   #1389
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How is your German??
There is a site www.moosi-masters.com that is dedicated to Pro10 cars with mod motors.
They run up to 4.5 motors with power programs and Lola bodies.
They run the RC Le-mans series in Germany and Holland.
2S lipo, motor limit none, tires foam, weight 1200 grams, max wheelbase 280mm(correct me if i am wrong), 2WD, 235MM wide and go go go
They run 5 minute races and sometimes due to heat build up the unsolder the motor wires.
Seen cars run out of current within 3.5 minutes due to insane motors and gearing
They run large fan's on the motorpod to get temps down.
Next weekend there will be a race in the Netherlands at Velp in that series and i am going also.
Not gonna run that fast of motors as it is my first attempt to finish the race
Will be a 7.5 or a 5.5 motor without power program to keep all in working order.
Bodies they run are Lola's as are all Original Pro10 bodies allowed.
BTW the 10.5 boosted Pro10 class in the Netherlands are hunting 1:10 nitro cars down at the bigger tracks because of there speed.
Imagine what it is like with those mod motors in them.


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Old 05-26-2014, 01:16 AM   #1390
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thanks pro10noob for the reply. unfortunately my German is poor ( non existent )so the forums are no good to me but thanks anyway. We also run 4.5 and 4.0 turn motors with programming and boost and we have also experienced unsoldering wires of the motor, esc ,battery connections you name it. quality batteries are a must in our class with 90c 8000mah orion and nvision batteries the most popular , lower quality batteries can just dump and leave you stranded. i have seen footage of pro 10 mod and the top speed is a little higher then ours being lighter and 2wd they can get away with it, also unfortunately we don't have tracks like your top one in Holland ( heemested i think you call it) that is one beautiful track but ours is big enough and mixes technical and hi speed sections overall we cant complain and we are grateful to have our track. traction is mid to high and i am tempted to try a pan car in our class, for now i will just see what i can get out of my newly purchased 1/12th mod first and go from there.
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Last edited by oldenuff; 05-26-2014 at 01:19 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:29 AM   #1391
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MACH, AMCA,RACO,Baanbrekers,REAL Gouda and VELP have the big nitro tracks and good grip when there is nitro running before.
Top speeds above 113 KM/H have been reached there.
Just try to get a hold of a 235MM pan car and go for it.
See how it hold up against the 4WD.
2 years ago the top lap times at Baanbrekers between Pro10 stock(10.5 boosted) and mod where only 0.8 tenth of a second slower(10.5 boosted).

Regards Roy
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Old 05-26-2014, 03:22 AM   #1392
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hi guys , are these pro 10 cars basically world gt cars? it appears that way from the pictures with the main difference being mod motors ,235mm bodies, and 2s lipo power? , in Australia both these classes are non existent, even 1/12th currently only has 1 class continually running in Sydney which is a city of five million people, for me to go down this path would really be going out on a limb and praying for the best,.. but the temptation is there,.
unfortunately money is an issue and i cant just go and start again but in the coming months if things go well hopefully i can squeeze it into the budget.
as i mentioned earlier i have recently purchased a 1/12th serpent to go with my converted 235mm xray t4, so i can do some testing with it and if i can get it close to the bigger cars it will make me take the plunge as my 1/12th is similar to your cars i think,.. just smaller.
boosted 10.5t is a good class to be running for you guys over there, nearly as quick as mod but less wear, they probably run as high speeds as our cars if not quicker as we cant beat the 1/10 nitro touring cars in a straight line but over the course of the track we are a little faster then the gas cars, as a matter of fact the only cars that can beat our class at our track are the pro 1/8 onroad guys, and even then we are close... On another note i would be interested in seeing what Esc most of you guys are running, most of our class have converted to Tekin Rx8 would you believe and are at least half a second quicker as a result!,
cheers
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Old 05-26-2014, 06:34 AM   #1393
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In Catalonia we use between 10.5-5T

All kind of motors can unsolder the motor wires if don't have the right pinion/spur gear


regards
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:02 AM   #1394
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@oldenuff,
If you unsolder your wires, use different/better quality solder, this will help!
With the converted 4wd TC, with lola bodies, and wide rear foams? (I love that class!) I can fully understand, that in hotter weather conditions they will get heat problems!, believe me, you will also get them with a 10.5T Pro10, with quit a big amount of boost, which you need to keep up with the 4wd cars!
Also the Pro10 modified class referred to by "Pro10noob" will have problems with the hot weather conditions in your country.

That is also why I understand why most are running the Tekin RX8....

Here you have a little movie of me, last wednesday, while testing the RX8, on my 8th scale Serpent 977.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waL--tfoxzM
I've tested this ESC intensively in my 966e, it's now time to take it a bit further.... stay tuned!
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Old 05-26-2014, 08:53 AM   #1395
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Most of the people that run a 235 car have a Corally, RC Devil, Serpent, VIP Racing or home build.
This because not many companies make a 235MM chassis.
You could get some kind of conversion kit to build your WGT car to a 235MM Pro10 but then the wheelbase is off as the 200MM WGT cars are shorter most of the time.
I run at the moment a design of Joost K.
It is a T-bar design car but it can keep up with most link cars
ESC we run in the Pro10 are Hobbywing, GM, Hacker and others.
Most are good stock ESC's that you can program.
Soldering is like M7H says.
Use a good wire and battery and most of all good solder and iron.
When you run a lot of boost/ timing or gear your mod motor to high the wires will come loose in any condition.
I have seen very thick wires come loose because of bad soldering.
It is not all about size but it is mostly just a case of bad work done or bad gearing.

Regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by oldenuff View Post
hi guys , are these pro 10 cars basically world gt cars? it appears that way from the pictures with the main difference being mod motors ,235mm bodies, and 2s lipo power? , in Australia both these classes are non existent, even 1/12th currently only has 1 class continually running in Sydney which is a city of five million people, for me to go down this path would really be going out on a limb and praying for the best,.. but the temptation is there,.
unfortunately money is an issue and i cant just go and start again but in the coming months if things go well hopefully i can squeeze it into the budget.
as i mentioned earlier i have recently purchased a 1/12th serpent to go with my converted 235mm xray t4, so i can do some testing with it and if i can get it close to the bigger cars it will make me take the plunge as my 1/12th is similar to your cars i think,.. just smaller.
boosted 10.5t is a good class to be running for you guys over there, nearly as quick as mod but less wear, they probably run as high speeds as our cars if not quicker as we cant beat the 1/10 nitro touring cars in a straight line but over the course of the track we are a little faster then the gas cars, as a matter of fact the only cars that can beat our class at our track are the pro 1/8 onroad guys, and even then we are close... On another note i would be interested in seeing what Esc most of you guys are running, most of our class have converted to Tekin Rx8 would you believe and are at least half a second quicker as a result!,
cheers
oldenuff
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