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Old 09-08-2013, 10:52 AM   #1291
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Thanks for the heads up! you guys are really helpful
i found this at the IRS website too http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...roducts_id=248
NOt sure whether is this compatible too?
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Old 09-08-2013, 01:14 PM   #1292
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This is a replacement for the original axle,
you can use the old hubs and diff rings.
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Old 09-18-2013, 05:04 PM   #1293
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Can anyone recommend preferred tire compounds for pro 10 on carpet? I just put together an old rc10l to play with in Dallas. I have run it with jaco wgt lilacs since that is all I have available at the lhs. Rear is hooked up but the front needs a lot more grip. I wanted to order tires from a-main or rc4less but have no idea what compounds work well on carpet.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:21 PM   #1294
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I have the chance to pick up a Yokomo Pro 10 body. I have no need for it. Is there a place I could send it to be copied to so that you guys that are into Pro10 size bodies can have access to it?
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:06 AM   #1295
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Originally Posted by racer robert View Post
Can anyone recommend preferred tire compounds for pro 10 on carpet? I just put together an old rc10l to play with in Dallas. I have run it with jaco wgt lilacs since that is all I have available at the lhs. Rear is hooked up but the front needs a lot more grip. I wanted to order tires from a-main or rc4less but have no idea what compounds work well on carpet.
It surprises me that the rear end is fine with the lilacs! Usually I run one step softer rears than fronts (pink rears, magenta-ish fronts). That track must have some awesome traction!

Hopefully your RC10L has the graphite chassis, as this will respond to setup changes much better than the fiberglass.

For more front grip, you can try softer front springs or a thicker T-plate. Also check the front camber; if the tire patches don't fully contact the track, they won't grip as well. Moving as much weight to the rear as possible will also help.
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Old 09-19-2013, 07:41 AM   #1296
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@howard,
I think I'm confused. "Moving as much weight to the rear as possible will also help..." his reported understeer? This seems backwards to me (but I'm often accused of being bass ackwards!).

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Old 09-19-2013, 07:59 AM   #1297
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@howard,
I think I'm confused. "Moving as much weight to the rear as possible will also help..." his reported understeer? This seems backwards to me (but I'm often accused of being bass ackwards!).

Scott
It seems that way to many people!

Adding more weight to the tire contact patches increases their grip, but (as with so many things in life) we don't "get back as much as we put in"; for instance, if we double the weight, we don't quite get double the grip-- we get a little less. But we need double the grip to get double the weight around a corner at the same speed (lateral acceleration). So moving weight to the rear of the car makes it looser.

We see this in full-sized cars, too. Front-engined cars tend to push; rear-engined cars tend to oversteer.

This is also why softening the front roll stiffness or increasing the rear roll stiffness will add front grip. Putting more weight on the outside rear tire (and less on the inside rear) results in less total grip on the rear, and therefore more on the front.

(Moving weight to the rear of the car DOES increase FORWARD grip on a rear-wheel-drive car. That's why dragsters have such a large rearward weight bias, even to the point of lifting the front tires off the ground on a launch.)
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:16 AM   #1298
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It surprises me that the rear end is fine with the lilacs! Usually I run one step softer rears than fronts (pink rears, magenta-ish fronts). That track must have some awesome traction!

Hopefully your RC10L has the graphite chassis, as this will respond to setup changes much better than the fiberglass.

For more front grip, you can try softer front springs or a thicker T-plate. Also check the front camber; if the tire patches don't fully contact the track, they won't grip as well. Moving as much weight to the rear as possible will also help.
Thanks howardcano, My car is a RC10l graphite that I recently picked up on ebay. it has the solid block front suspension but I have added camber by shimming it with header card and that helped a little. I moved the batteries all they way back and that helped a little too. And softer front springs that helped as well.

Not long after receiving the 10l I went to a race in San Antonio and the hobby shop had all kinds of great old rc cars. Picked up a complete RC10l2 graphite that was just missing some hardware and after some cleaning looks good as new. I will be transferring my electronics over and see if that chassis works any better. Plus it has the dynamic strut front end that should hook up better. But in my experience tires are a huge part of set up and anything else is just a minor adjustment to the feel of the car. I can order tires but do not want to go through a lot of trial and error if there is a combination that is known to be good on carpet.

My Pro 10 is fast but it's lap times are not as impressive as I hoped they would be since I can not carry much of that speed through the sweeper.
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:12 AM   #1299
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Did the 10L2 come with a graphite bottom pod plate instead of aluminum from AE?
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Old 09-19-2013, 09:52 AM   #1300
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Did the 10L2 come with a graphite bottom pod plate instead of aluminum from AE?
It has the aluminum bottom pod plate.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:57 AM   #1301
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Does anyone know if the kingpin of the xray front suspension is the same length as the Corally 10sl front?

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:48 PM   #1302
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Quote:
Does anyone know if the kingpin of the xray front suspension is the same length as the Corally 10sl front?
just checked xray is 30mm and 3mm in diameter, corally is a bit longer
and thicker
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Old 09-19-2013, 02:34 PM   #1303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicViper View Post
just checked xray is 30mm and 3mm in diameter, corally is a bit longer
and thicker
Thanks for checking! :-)
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:35 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I have the chance to pick up a Yokomo Pro 10 body. I have no need for it. Is there a place I could send it to be copied to so that you guys that are into Pro10 size bodies can have access to it?
Contact TBG - you can find them on Ebay-see if they are interested in doing a 1/10 pan car body. They rescued a 1/10 Ferrari F50 GT1 200mm I had left. In exchange for supplying the original they should give you 3 of the new copies.
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:23 AM   #1305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakaguyjean View Post
I have the chance to pick up a Yokomo Pro 10 body. I have no need for it. Is there a place I could send it to be copied to so that you guys that are into Pro10 size bodies can have access to it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Delgado View Post
Contact TBG - you can find them on Ebay-see if they are interested in doing a 1/10 pan car body. They rescued a 1/10 Ferrari F50 GT1 200mm I had left. In exchange for supplying the original they should give you 3 of the new copies.
If my recollection is right the yokomo body is the Nissan P35? If that is correct then that body is still availlable from corally.

I haven't had much luck with companies reproducing bodies. I am still waiting for Kamtec to reproduce a body for me that I send him beginning last year and I asked TBG for the HPI Jaguar XJR pro10 body. He had it in his inventory already so I didn't have to send him the body. That is what he told me anyway. He had plans to reproduce it, but it is already 6 months ago or something but haven't heard anything yet.

I hope others have better luck.
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