R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-04-2013, 10:12 AM   #1276
Tech Elite
 
Grenade10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 4,667
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default Heart of America - Pro10 Cars

Next race is September 14/15.

Looking forward to running the 235 2s/10.5 cars again.

Howard - Does this fit your schedule??? This way I could just hand you the tires you asked for ..... No Billy in the process .....

Also, I am delivering a ProtoForm P-35 to Tim in Omaha out of my stock ....
__________________
Darkside, Sweep, BSR, Fantom, IGT Hobbies and IGT8
Byrons Fuel, ProtoForm Bodies & Futaba Radio Gear by Choice
Founding Member of CORRC .... 5280raceway
www.darksidems.com www.igthobbies.com www.IGT8.com
Grenade10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 10:15 AM   #1277
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

@ Abram
What is the rest of your setup plus ride height front and back.

Normally no tweakscrews is more traction in the back but other things like too much steering throw can make the car swap its rear end out of the turn.

It is finding a ballance of different things.
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 10:18 AM   #1278
Moderator
 
MarkA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 8,511
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Removing the tweak screws was always the last, last, last resort, even on a very loose track.
If a track was almost undrivable with a conventional L2, I would:
1) Try softer rear tires
2) As mentioned above, remove the dampner disks, start with the top, then the bottom
3) Dramatically soften the center shock, i.e. go from the silver to the black spring and drop the oil wt.
4) Stiffen the front end - inducing a little push is a very effective way to get balance back.
5) Raise the front ride height and lower the rear.
6) Remove tweak screws and hope for the best.
MarkA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 02:43 PM   #1279
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Germany
Posts: 7
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkA View Post
Removing the tweak screws was always the last, last, last resort, even on a very loose track.
If a track was almost undrivable with a conventional L2, I would:
1) Try softer rear tires
2) As mentioned above, remove the dampner disks, start with the top, then the bottom
3) Dramatically soften the center shock, i.e. go from the silver to the black spring and drop the oil wt.
4) Stiffen the front end - inducing a little push is a very effective way to get balance back.
5) Raise the front ride height and lower the rear.
6) Remove tweak screws and hope for the best.
You can add an shim under the front of the Tbar screw,
and you could true the front Tires down.
try another Body with less traction in the front and add a big flap
on the back
VicViper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #1280
Tech Elite
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,284
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10 View Post
Next race is September 14/15.

Looking forward to running the 235 2s/10.5 cars again.

Howard - Does this fit your schedule??? This way I could just hand you the tires you asked for ..... No Billy in the process .....

Also, I am delivering a ProtoForm P-35 to Tim in Omaha out of my stock ....
No, I won't be able to make it. But I have changed my Speed Merchant Roadkill 10 over to 10.5/2s in anticipation of participating. I ran it a couple of weekends ago at the races in Topeka, during the lunch break. I totally guessed on the gearing for using dynamic timing, although I left the ESC on fixed timing in Topeka because the track is small compared to a 1/8 scale track. It's a good thing I did, because I probably would have wet myself if the thing ran any faster!

I had forgotten how much downforce these bodies generate. I can leave the mongo bumper off if I need more front downforce, but the car seemed pretty balanced as is.

The body is a 1/10 Parma(?) Lola(?). Tires are pink rear, and 32 shore 30mm TC foams on the front.

Here are some photos:





__________________
Howard Cano
When race results are re-calculated using the IOF (Index Of Fun), I always win.
1993 ROAR 1/8 Pan National Champion
howardcano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 03:49 AM   #1281
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

The bottom screw on the left bulkhead look bigger than 4/40? is that a speedmerchant bulkhead?
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 06:26 AM   #1282
Tech Elite
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,284
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
The bottom screw on the left bulkhead look bigger than 4/40? is that a speedmerchant bulkhead?
Wow, you have good eyes! And I was expecting someone to ask about the transponder!

The screw is an 8-32, and the bulkheads are compatible with the original Associated RC12L. I can't say for sure who made it. The car is very old, and SpeedMerchant may have used bulkheads from another manufacturer since they have never made high volumes of everything. As I understand it, SpeedMerchant designed the first cars for CRC, so there was probably some sharing of parts.
__________________
Howard Cano
When race results are re-calculated using the IOF (Index Of Fun), I always win.
1993 ROAR 1/8 Pan National Champion
howardcano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 07:27 AM   #1283
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Springfield OHIO
Posts: 520
Trader Rating: 1 (67%+)
Send a message via AIM to racer034life
Default

I wish this class would come to a track in Ohio or near by.
racer034life is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 09:06 AM   #1284
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: w'lands s'pore
Posts: 702
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to ses414
Default

Hi Pro10 235 veterans, i love to run my 10L2 on my local nitro track but the problem is i keep breaking my rear axle! I did not clip or hit any kerb or wall, i leave a very small gap when install the hubs to make sure it has a small freeplay. Any idea of why the axle keep breaking?
ses414 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 02:10 PM   #1285
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Germany
Posts: 7
Default

did you use new bearings?
are the hubs ok?
did you check the motorpod if its bent or broken?
VicViper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2013, 07:34 AM   #1286
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

@ses,
What axles do you use, the old associated axles or IRS?

I know that the old 1ste edition associated axles had a problem of breaking easy. You can distinguish them easily, the axle is part carbon/metal (the axle part where the diff is, is from metal). They broke easy at the spot where the carbon axle went over into the metal part.

In 5 years time I never broke an axle. (always used IRS). I only leave a gap of a hairs width between axle and bearing. It idoesn't give me a good feeling when the axle can slide sideways too much.
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 08:10 AM   #1287
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: w'lands s'pore
Posts: 702
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via ICQ to ses414
Default

Hi Viper, 2wdrive.
Thanks for the advice, yes i was using the old associated axle with the metal shaft at one end. Which type of irs axle should i use as 10L2 has a offset pod?

Thank you guys =)
ses414 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 09:29 AM   #1288
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

FYI the old axle and hubs used round diff rings (round in the middle).
The new axles and hubs use D-rings. So if you only buy the axle you have to buy D-rings separate.

axle
http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...products_id=51

compleet axle kit
http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...products_id=65
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 09:30 AM   #1289
Tech Elite
 
Pro10noob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 2,076
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

I use this one ----> http://teamirsrc.com/index.php?main_...products_id=65
on my asso based cars.
Had no problems at all with this axle.
I believe there is a shorter left hub in the kit now so you can shim the axle like you want.
Best is to contact IRS if that is the case.

Regards Roy


Quote:
Originally Posted by ses414 View Post
Hi Viper, 2wdrive.
Thanks for the advice, yes i was using the old associated axle with the metal shaft at one end. Which type of irs axle should i use as 10L2 has a offset pod?

Thank you guys =)
__________________
l===/o\===l
[_]-###-[_] V-link proto type Pro10,JKMR P235-SE Pro10
P235-VL Pro10 comming soon
Sponsered by me,myself and i :)
Pro10noob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #1290
Tech Master
 
2wdrive's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,316
Default

in the description of the axle kit it says it contains the longer clamp hub. Indeed, better mail them to be sure of that as you don't really need the short clamp hub when using the L2. The longer one has the same dimensions as the original.

ps:
If you order it at a local shop it doesn't matter much but ordering overseas then ask them to check the hubs for misaligned screw holes for the tires. I haven't received those myself but 2 other drivers received hubs that could not be used because of a production error where the screw holes didn't allign with the screw pattern of the backtires. (or something like that) Sending them back etc is a hastle then.
__________________
www.rc-lemans.de

Last edited by 2wdrive; 09-08-2013 at 10:12 AM.
2wdrive is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:59 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0