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Old 08-23-2013, 10:31 AM   #1261
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You stopped racing touringcars?

Yes.
But I have touring nitro velox v10.

For me its bettet to have foams on car then rubber

So foams is my choice. Pro10. Gt10. 1/12 and nitros

Get older so my cars are for old man
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:32 AM   #1262
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Attachment 1094390

Almost done!
Which body is this you are using?
Might that be a Porsche?
Thought those were not permitted at Dutch Nationals.......
But hey, maybe I'm way off track here.......
Please enlighten me...
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:47 AM   #1263
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This is the Sauber Mercedes from MIX.
This one is permitted.
For next year there will probebly be a body list.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:26 PM   #1264
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If anyone is looking for a 235mm car. I have a brand new one here

Custom RC10R5 235mm Conversion
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:12 AM   #1265
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1.
Sorry, my bad.
Thought saddle packs would fit into this car. Not gonna happen because of the side links and the positioning of the centre shock.

Last edited by Kensei; 08-26-2013 at 04:22 AM.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:46 AM   #1266
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Yes it will
See my answer on modelbouwforum
I run this car myself in 200MM spec but can easely be converted to 235MM

Regards Roy

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1.
Sorry, my bad.
Thought saddle packs would fit into this car. Not gonna happen because of the side links and the positioning of the centre shock.
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Old 08-26-2013, 06:45 PM   #1267
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Does anyone make a 235 mm pan car in kit form? Or do you just have to buy a conversion kit?
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:02 PM   #1268
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Corally has the 10SL in 235mm kit.
Very good car.
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:43 PM   #1269
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RCdevil makes also a 235MM car but at a price
Very nice car tho

Regards Roy
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:39 AM   #1270
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Some pictures from Roman (RKtrouble on here?) of the German Masters pro10 https://www.facebook.com/krejcirom/m...7006076&type=3

I think you need to be a member to see them.
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Old 08-27-2013, 05:26 AM   #1271
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A- final German Masters

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 08-27-2013, 07:44 AM   #1272
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Thanks for sharing!

Good videos.
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Go 235mm with X10 widening parts from www.lajf.se Get your P28 at www.lajf.se/pshop
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:33 AM   #1273
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Video from kwalification
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:12 AM   #1274
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Default nob question about t-bar

hi!

I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).

t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.

My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.

Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...

One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...

My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.

What I should think?

I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st

For me there is only last race on asphalt this year so maybe then weather will be much better ...

Regards!
m.

ps: I think also link based cars are much better on asphalt (my 200mm does very well in any conditions) but I have 10L2 pro10 old school and want it drive ...
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:31 AM   #1275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
hi!

I have 10L2 car, it is t-bar with disk dumper (side dump like 12L4 or something around).

t-bar has also two screws to set tweak.

My question is about that screws in slippy conditions.

Last time rain destroy our track and grip, but then come some sun and track dry, but lost grip. All was sliding around ...

One man suggest me remove that screws from t-bar but I felt at 2nd run that car was more unstable then previous. He said that is always better remove that screws when grip is very low ...

My experience is with screws I was able to drive without them = no drive.

What I should think?

I remember that from 12L4 time, with screws for me was always better ...
rear end doesnt want drive 1st
Removing the tweak screws can help keep the rear end from breaking loose when accelerating out of a corner in low traction conditions. (You might also try removing the damper disk.) But it also increases understeer.

You may find it necessary to add weight to the left side of the rear pod to get it to balance from side to side when running without the tweak screws.

Your results may vary!
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