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Old 05-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #1096
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Hm ...

That cars are very nice but ...

Again, front end 12R5 -> allu block, there is two screws from bottom which can touch screws from a-arm

I'm going to do my 1/12 just for fun from scratch and that part will be redesigned that bottom screws move outside so screws will not touch
and then RH adjustment will not made PITA in that place

Anyway, why t-bar? In the past I break a lot of t-bars in 12L4 ... they do not break often in pro10 ?
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Old 05-11-2013, 10:32 PM   #1097
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I have been running the car for over a year now and broke just 1 T-bar and that was due to me clipping a curb way to hard.
For the rest i send the car flying, did a Le-mans flip and more crazy stuf but not broken a T-bar again.
So dunno why you broke so much T-bars.
Perhaps it is due to the fact you use a lot off hard boardings on the track?


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Hm ...


Anyway, why t-bar? In the past I break a lot of t-bars in 12L4 ... they do not break often in pro10 ?
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:53 AM   #1098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hm ...

That cars are very nice but ...

Again, front end 12R5 -> allu block, there is two screws from bottom which can touch screws from a-arm
Dude... The R5 front end is GOOD!!! As for the screws touching the other screws? Use SHORTER SCREWS!!!

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Anyway, why t-bar? In the past I break a lot of t-bars in 12L4 ... they do not break often in pro10 ?
There is a huge difference between 12th scale and Pro10. You broke a lot of T-bars in your 12th scale because you were not driving good enough. Not to disrespect you because I had the same problem on my 12L4
I wasn't good enough so I hit the boardings all the time >> broken T-bars... A LOT!!!

In Pro10 we don't have that problem. Large open tracks with grass inbetween. I drive T-bar Pro10's for a couple of years now and I have broken only one T-bar because of a sideways encounter with a steel pipe...

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Old 05-13-2013, 03:03 AM   #1099
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yes yes

use shorter pfff )))


about t-bar, I have 10L2, I will try drive it

about t-bar, at 2009 in LT I got my new name, Abramus T-barus

OK I wait for movies with that new cars from track

Which to drivers all the best!


m.

ps: I'm still learning how to drive clean and links car is better because nothing t-bar-break to :P
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:26 PM   #1100
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I still run my rc10l2.5 (with dampertubes) even though I bought a corally 10sl recently. I didnt realy feel the need yet to run a link car because the l2 still performs good.
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Old 05-16-2013, 01:45 PM   #1101
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2wdrive,

Havent you designed a linkchassi with PRC? Didnt you drive it?
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:28 AM   #1102
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Oh Yes I did. I had a phantom problem with my l2 that I couldnt get rid of. When I got the prc car I got the same exact problems lol! with a steerimg adjustment the car wanted to stay in that direction even though the wheels were center. It felt like weird rear steer with every steering input. I switched back to the l2 to look for the problem. Took me two seasons going through all the setup sheets from mark anton and other drivers but all of a sudden the problem was gone without knowing what it was but the car was on rails with huge corner speeds. I didnt look for the cause as I was happy the darn car finaly worked lol. Last year or so the problem came back all of a sudden and found out that I accidently had set toe in where I had toe out before.

Looking at the steering geometry it now makes sence as the ackerman of a l2 is low. Toe in wil probably make the wheels countersteer eachother. Eg, the inner wheel remains more to center than the outer wheel making for some weird steering. With 0 or toe out that is gone.

basicly the prc car is still new in the closet and I stil drive my l2. Reason is also that I had 3 uears of problems with it and now that it drives
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Old 05-17-2013, 06:02 AM   #1103
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good I want some payback. The car with some small updates can still hold its own against newer cars. At least in boosted 10.5t it has no problems. And I did win races with it. Another reason I havent switched yet.

Ps: I am in china and connection and typing/editing on this phone is troublesome.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:47 AM   #1104
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We, Lajf Racing are making a widening kit for the CRC GEN-X10.
yes it is 235mm conversion.
The kit is designed to use the IRS 235 rear axle.
Here is a picture of the rearend on a prototype, taken this sunday(19 of May).

http://lajf.se/en/nyheter/crc-gen-x1...breddningskit/
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:19 AM   #1105
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Looking nice & good on the CRC. A big improvement over the original CRC kit.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:21 AM   #1106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
I would like to present to you all... The newest member of my Pro10 family...

Driven by myself and Roy Pie, my team-mate...

Mine will be Orion powered front to back...

Here it is... Please welcome...

the P235-SE Stealth Edition


And the car finished with all electronics... Team Orion Powered!!!






Hopefully soon it's maiden run at the beautiful fast track of the BaanBrekers in Rucphen, the Netherlands...

This is beautiful!
Great job.
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Old 05-20-2013, 08:16 AM   #1107
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Thank you!!! Always nice to hear these things...
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:35 AM   #1108
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I'm new in Pro10 with a Corally 10sl coming soon, I'm lost with the roll out. I will run a 5.5 engine with 2S on a fast Outdoor track, I thought about 30-32 mm roll out, am I right ? Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2013, 11:05 AM   #1109
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Tire diameter x 3.1416=A
A devided by spur teeth= B
B x pinion teeth is rollout

Regards Roy
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:40 PM   #1110
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With a 5.5 32mm is a safe start.
If your motor runs cool, don't be afraid to gear up.
Without timing, you'll probably end on a rollout around 37mm.
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