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Old 03-16-2013, 08:40 AM   #1066
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Same here but if you copy/paste the URL you can see them. I think it is a nice chassis but again, very complicated and maybe over thought in it's concept...
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Old 03-16-2013, 10:32 AM   #1067
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This thread is inspiring me. I've got an old RC10L graphite car I'm thinking of getting back out on the track. It's got a T-plate and single shock. Full graphite chassis and axle.

What kind of tires would I need to run on indoor asphalt? Should I go for foam or rubber tires?

I'd be running at what would probably be considered a medium sized indoor asphalt track with medium traction, at West Coast Raceway.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:06 AM   #1068
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I dont know if MarkA or any of the pro10 regulars from CA post in this discussion but Im sure if you swung by the Oval, Larger Scales and more section and dropped a note in the 10th pan discussion there they could tap into their experiences from the old SoCal Raceway (RIP) and help you out
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:54 PM   #1069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
maybe it is my computer but I don't see any pics. I only see boxes with red crosses.
I see pictures!
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:04 AM   #1070
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I can see the pictures on my mobile phone as well so maybe I got my internet settings on my PC screwed up. I have no problem with the pictures of NDZ ?

Anyway.... I like the new Vorlon. Looks good.


ps:
With google chrome I can see the pictures. Must be something in the microsoft internet explorer.
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:39 PM   #1071
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Hi!

Have question.

What change in pan car for better front grip in cornering?

I mean, drive, release TH, then autobreak start working (10%), then weight from rear tires goes to front, car start turning into corner and pushing ...

I saw on track that car from my friends was faster in corners (no pushing, very tight and fast).

Car is 10R5 like.

Where to touch it next time?

Just need ideas how it works.

I stop racing 4wd on-road ep taxi dtm ;-) (tc6.1we) and there I know what to do. Back again to WGT.

My setup was simple:
- center shock 20wt + very soft spring,
- 100k diff lube on kingpins at front, .20 springs.

It's like I release TH and too slow weight goes to front ...
More fluid on fronts doesn't help a lot ...
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:12 PM   #1072
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Quote:
This thread is inspiring me. I've got an old RC10L graphite car I'm thinking of getting back out on the track. It's got a T-plate and single shock. Full graphite chassis and axle.

What kind of tires would I need to run on indoor asphalt? Should I go for foam or rubber tires?

I'd be running at what would probably be considered a medium sized indoor asphalt track with medium traction, at West Coast Raceway.
What body type (On-road or Oval?)

I like a Purple front tire and Pink rear at Camarillo - but on the rare chance I get to race I don't usually get much practice so it's easy for me to get that setup around the track.

I'd think West Coast would be decent w/ Lilac (The World GT spec tires) depending on what body you are thinking about. Myself I like a softer rear tire, but I tend to like a little push.

West Coast could be fun in an old Wide Pan Car - (btw I have 2 wide 10L's and a wide HPI Roadstar...and have wanted to try them down there sometimes...it sucks to be 3 hrs away)
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:24 AM   #1073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

Have question.

What change in pan car for better front grip in cornering?

I mean, drive, release TH, then autobreak start working (10%), then weight from rear tires goes to front, car start turning into corner and pushing ...

I saw on track that car from my friends was faster in corners (no pushing, very tight and fast).

Car is 10R5 like.

Where to touch it next time?

Just need ideas how it works.

I stop racing 4wd on-road ep taxi dtm ;-) (tc6.1we) and there I know what to do. Back again to WGT.

My setup was simple:
- center shock 20wt + very soft spring,
- 100k diff lube on kingpins at front, .20 springs.

It's like I release TH and too slow weight goes to front ...
More fluid on fronts doesn't help a lot ...
Is this in 1s or 2s lipo application and carpet or asphalt? What motor and what tires are you using?

I would give it a basic setup and go from there. 10-20.000cst on the kingpins just to lube it without the oil falling of the kingpin. in 2s application go to 40wt-45wt with a 12-14 lbs centerspring. Soft to medium side springs. Not knowing anything about the track, the car and the tires you use I would start with that. (and also look what your friend is doing!) It seems you might be over compensating for the very soft centerspring and maybe something else as well such as the tires you use.

Some examples for more steering:
Softer front tires, harder back tires, harder center spring for more onpower steering, stiffer side springs, more traction compound on the front, longer soaking time of traction compound etc.

Actually when I use dragbrake my car has a setup flaw that I can't get rid of fast enough. I only use dragbrake (autobrake) as a last resort when I don't have enough time to tune and practise and need some extra offpower steering right away but too afraid to do any major setup changes with the thought I could mess it all up in the next heat
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Last edited by 2wdrive; 03-18-2013 at 03:21 AM.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:16 AM   #1074
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hi!

it was wgt class, 2s lipo, 17.5T

I speak already with friends and I found that I must test harder center spring as 1st step next time.

I put very soft and it can break my driving

Friends cars has stiffer springs but maybe slighty softer then ae green (12LBS touring).



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Old 03-19-2013, 07:54 AM   #1075
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Hi!

What gives angled links compared to parallel ones?

This is picture from BMI man:





?
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:08 AM   #1076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz View Post
Hi!

What gives angled links compared to parallel ones?

?


CRC said the links don't make a difference, but, their "Altered Ego" chassis now has straight links again.


SHawn.
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:00 PM   #1077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
CRC said the links don't make a difference, but, their "Altered Ego" chassis now has straight links again.


SHawn.
Hm

...
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Old 03-22-2013, 05:21 PM   #1078
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My Trinity EV-10 came with the option of straight or angled links and I always ran them angled for 2 reasons: Full sized race cars with solid axles always angle at least one set of links, and I thought angled would be less likely to give any sort of rear steer. I was always very happy with the way it ran and had very good results, even at a national level.
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Old 03-23-2013, 02:03 AM   #1079
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Just curious, with the tubes and springs off, did the angled links have less tendency to "fight" eachother?
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Old 03-23-2013, 06:19 AM   #1080
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Just curious, with the tubes and springs off, did the angled links have less tendency to "fight" eachother?
Yes, moving the forward pivots on the side links toward the center of the car does give less binding. If the pivots were on the centerline, there would be no binding.

There are oval racing chassis with this arrangement, and they work very well. Since the battery is offset to the left, there's plenty of room for the links to be angled in.
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