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Old 01-17-2010, 03:17 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
Yes I have and it looks good!!!

Is it race-ready yet???
No, i need to fix the shock (will use the IRS shock) and the lipo cradle (made the drawings for it and will mail it shortly). I am going to use 2 configurations for the lipo cradle using saddlepack lipo's. One Stickpack style down the middle and one side by side that will go on the back of the chassis (more weight on the back tires with the side by side config). Just something to play with and see what is working better for my drivingstyle or maybe track. After that it will be race ready.
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Old 01-17-2010, 03:57 AM   #77
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what CAD program are you using?
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:02 AM   #78
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@ 2wdrive
do you have pictures from your current state of car for 2010?
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:30 AM   #79
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Okay then Alexander, I will see it in the mail then when you are done...

@V12: I am using AutoCAD 2009

I am waiting for some Asso parts now so that I can do some final drawing on the chassis with the parts that are going to be used (T-plate, standoffs, motorplate & bulkhead).

All in all it is again a very nice design and if it works as good or better than the '09 version I am a happy lad
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:36 AM   #80
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@ John S.: Yes, that is a very nice front end indeed. Although IMHO it is too complicated but I definately believe that it works. I am thinking of a way to make a dampened front end as wel only then less complicated with less parts but that is still in my head, nothing concrete yet...
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Old 01-17-2010, 05:32 AM   #81
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Quote:
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@ 2wdrive
do you have pictures from your current state of car for 2010?

I changed the chassis brace design of the original wide pantoura from powell to tweak plates roughly similar to the crc setup with the hourglass standoffs. I made the drawings by hand and powell redrew it in cad and milled the design.

I wanted to have an option of using stickpack style and side by side but didn't have the lipo's yet so could not get any measurements of the side by side configuration. The screwholes of the side by side cradle i have to drill myself when the cradle for the side by side config. is finished.

With the tweak plates it is quite simple to do some setup changes without too much work of dismanteling the whole chassis brace left and right. There is enough room at the back between the tweak plates to do the side by side saddlepack configuration and put them all the way to the back against the centerpivot football. Not sure what will be better or easier to drive but at least it is an option.

The front i used the crc lower a-arm and upper arm with a associated knuckle and turnbuckle. I did't like the crc one as it was difficult to do camber adjustments with the wheels on. The crc upper arm has to be shortend a little where the turnbuckle goes and the hole of the screw should be widend a little but for the rest it is a perfect fit. I still need to cut the leftover graphite of the extention but left it like this for now as i wasn't sure what i would do.
I will make a frontbrace as well.

The rear pod carbon parts are really beefy as the parts are 1,10 cm wide lol and i have a lot of room in the pod for the motor to just drop in and out.













edit:
Here a picture of the side by side configuration. A new topdeck needs to be designed then.


Last edited by 2wdrive; 01-17-2010 at 07:12 AM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:50 AM   #82
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2wheel drive-nice work.
Joost-You will think it is too complicated in the front until you drive it and notice the increased steering precision. What a delight it is over a sliding kingpin strut. The car can also be obtained without the dual A-arm front end.
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:13 AM   #83
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Oh like I said, I have absolutely NO doubts that it works. I just think that it can be done with fewer parts and a more simple plan and layout but on that I am still working after I got inspired by your design...

The priority now is to get the RC10R5.1X up and running and then I will focus on the new front end...
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Old 01-17-2010, 09:56 AM   #84
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Thanks john.

I have also plans to design flexplates at the back just like the db10RR. I run a DB10RR indoor and the flexplate design is super. For those that don't know, the flexplates are a cross between a t-bar and links. The flexplates of bmi are almost a 1:1 swap with the links except that the flexplates needs to be roughly 5mm longer and the two holes on the flexplate needs to be on a different place. The screw that hold the links on my chassis are a little more forwards then on the db10RR.

It is pure luck but the flexplates will be straight on the chassis if they are just stretched a little. The hole on the bottom pod plate where the spring rest will be used to attache the pivotball from the flexplate and the flexplate will be fixed on the chassis using one of the existing two holes on the chassis where you normaly can attach either the long or short links.

It would not be so difficult to get the measurments in CAD and stretch it a little. I will first get the car up and running but it is yet another option to play with in the future . I do notice that with the links the center pivot gets bind when going towards the maximum pod movement. The flexplates don't seem to have this issue as they are fixed with a pivotball and plastic pivotplates on the pod. Together with the flex of the plates the centerball doesn't seem to bind while still retaining a sturdy link type fixure.

the thing that puts me off using shocks at the front at this moment is the fact that all the constructions so far are using different screw holes then the standard asso style screw pattern. If someone would come up with an idea for using a front end using the same associated style bolt pattern while keeping the same width and clearance for the Lemans bodies it would be a very nice option . Then everyone with a corally, bmi, x-ray etc. could just retrofit it easily.
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Old 01-29-2010, 01:57 AM   #85
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I was just tipped on this thread today.
I think I should get online more.

If anyone wants to see some cool action shots on 1/10th 235mm pancars got the RC Le-mans Website:
http://www.rclemans.tk/
And click on foto's.
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Old 02-09-2010, 03:54 AM   #86
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Default What are these?

Just wondering if anyone can help me identify these? Thanks

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Old 02-09-2010, 04:15 AM   #87
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Corally C10X if I'm not mistaken...
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:25 AM   #88
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Default knock -offs

They are chinese copies of corallys, I had one...
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:03 AM   #89
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yes. I think it too. If Im not mistakeni remember its name is beast vh-10... It works nice, not as corally but nice (for this price). Im from spain and, in 2009, there was a "reborn" of the scale partly thanks to this car (it is so cheap)... I love this cars, low mainteinance, low costs and high speed, specially in corners comparing with TC, but a bit more difficult atthe beginning, in fact, we begin aprox. 12 people on 2009 and, in actually we are only 5 or 6 people running this category because a lot of people desperate. Really at the begining is difficult but the speed sensation when you control the car is the best...
I have discover this forum recently and it seems so good. I hope ill can learn and share my knowledge with all of you (and hope my level of english will can be understood by all of you lol)

Regards
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:11 AM   #90
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welcome to the forum. If you want to know more about pancars there is a pancar thread wich is almost 1000 pages long. It lurks in the oval-larger scales and more. in 2001 or something some moderator moved it there and it stayed there ever since. It has a wealth of information, just takes a few nights to read through it

1/10th pan car
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