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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion

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Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion

Old 05-29-2012, 07:51 PM
  #841  
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You will find that sealing the front with a pan will make the car quicker on the straight, although the pan is crash sensitive. Ground effects tunnels will add noticeable drag, but also a lot of down force. Best to just dodge the bumps unless you want to go full front suspension.
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:12 PM
  #842  
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Originally Posted by Stregone
I've heard of people having good results doing similar things to an F1 car, though those have very little downforce to begin with, so every little bit helps alot. Be sure to post your findings, I am curious as well
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And yes they work VERY well. But idk if theyd work so well in a pan car shell. Considering the reason those shells are high downforce is because its essentially just one big diffuser.
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Old 05-30-2012, 05:34 AM
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I have used Xceed TF-1 additive with Xceed pro10/WGT tires and Enetti/Shepherd tires , more or less the same as others, very similar to Robitronic Grip Master or CS-Electronic High Grip.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:29 PM
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[QUOTE=tudor_47;10723450]
Originally Posted by 2wdrive
Not that i am aware of. You have to DIY. A swooping arc towards the back on a piece of paper and then see how it looks like. Then cut out of lexaan or whatever.

Here is a picture of my peugeot MD so you can eyeball it a little.
QUOTE]

Thanks!
that helps!

i'll get cuttin.
I thought I'd sen them some where..
graphite side dams
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Old 05-30-2012, 11:44 PM
  #845  
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
it was few pages ago, tf-1, tf-2 and tf-3?

someone test it on bsr or jacos spec tires + asphalt with sugar/cola water?

in my case, gt10 class, bsr tires tf-1 seems beeter then tf-2, I put it for 30-40minutes.

any input?

i still wait for tf-3 ...
TF-2 is for high traction carpet tracks to let your tires not gum up and get sticky. Less traction roll etc etc.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:40 AM
  #846  
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tf-3 looks good, 45 minutes and lilacs become nice ;-) (bsr spec tires).

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Old 05-31-2012, 11:37 AM
  #847  
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===

Last edited by djiewie; 05-31-2012 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:42 AM
  #848  
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Alex, i heard you have come to sense and are planning to race 1/10 nitro next year. But with lola body`s. i have already and here are my body`s i tried on my GS vision rtr. Just to keep you enthousiastic.
Attached Thumbnails Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-2012-05-31-20.21.22.jpg   Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-2012-05-31-20.21.49.jpg   Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-2012-05-31-20.45.31.jpg  

Last edited by djiewie; 05-31-2012 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:47 PM
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My RCDevil pro10 reborn after a big crash:



By rokosam at 2012-05-31


By rokosam at 2012-05-31
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:21 AM
  #850  
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Originally Posted by djiewie
Alex, i heard you have come to sense and are planning to race 1/10 nitro next year. But with lola body`s. i have already and here are my body`s i tried on my GS vision rtr. Just to keep you enthousiastic.
news travels fast

What are your laptimes on Rucphen with 1/10 nitro?
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:14 AM
  #851  
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I have P908 235 body on my 235 pancar
when I get to the last 1/5th of our straight the chassie touches the track so I hade to raise the rideheght way up... I am not sure but it is somewhere around 10mm.

Can I take the ride height down and still not touch the track? harder spring on the damper? how about traction? guessing I'll loose some with harder spring?

what do I do?
car: Lajf Racing widened Xray X10
motor 4T

springs are all X10 originals
tires are 57mm tall in the rear.

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:43 AM
  #852  
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Put a nitro fuel line on the outside of the piston or another idea someone found is to use caster clips that nitro 1/8 use to set caster on the front. Then you can use a normal spring that fits with your setup without having to worry about scraping the ground.

Set normal ride height and make the fuel line/caster clips on the piston in such a way that the chassis stops at 2mm or so above the ground. Works really well. I only use a fuel line but caster clips might work easier as you can remove or add the clips without having to remove the ballcup and spring.

We found that a tc shock works much better in 2s lipo application then the 1/12th shock that comes with the WGT cars.

Last edited by 2wdrive; 06-07-2012 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive
Put a nitro fuel line on the outside of the piston or another idea someone found is to use caster clips that nitro 1/8 use to set caster on the front. Then you can use a normal spring that fits with your setup without having to worry about scraping the ground.

Set normal ride height and make the fuel line/caster clips on the piston in such a way that the chassis stops at 2mm or so above the ground. Works really well. I only use a fuel line but caster clips might work easier as you can remove or add the clips without having to remove the ballcup and spring.

We found that a tc shock works much better in 2s lipo application then the 1/12th shock that comes with the WGT cars.
thats called a bumpstop. And they work rather well
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Old 06-07-2012, 05:50 AM
  #854  
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Originally Posted by 2wdrive
Put a nitro fuel line on the outside of the piston or another idea someone found is to use caster clips that nitro 1/8 use to set caster on the front. Then you can use a normal spring that fits with your setup without having to worry about scraping the ground.

Set normal ride height and make the fuel line/caster clips on the piston in such a way that the chassis stops at 2mm or so above the ground. Works really well. I only use a fuel line but caster clips might work easier as you can remove or add the clips without having to remove the ballcup and spring.

We found that a tc shock works much better in 2s lipo application then the 1/12th shock that comes with the WGT cars.
Ahh, yes a limiter inside the damper on the piston, that's a good idea.

I might also try to get a TC-shock.

Thanks!

Last edited by tudor_47; 06-07-2012 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:20 AM
  #855  
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Just to be sure (as you write inside of the damper) It is not inside the shock but on the piston that is on the outside of the shock.

See the small piece of nitro fuel line on the centershock, just under the ballcup.

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