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Old 05-24-2012, 01:59 AM   #826
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The stranaham thread on alot of pancar issues among others limiting the airborne accidents
CRC Battle Axe, GenXPro 10, 1/10th pan, Brushless, Lipo,4c, Road, Oval,TipsandTricks

More exact check : http://www.rctech.net/forum/8274340-post1717.html
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Old 05-24-2012, 02:04 AM   #827
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I am not sure a flat underbody will work. It will probably make it worse as more air is trapped underneath lifting the chassis more then normally would be the case when traveling at top speed. The fact pancars have a big hole between the front suspension is purely for that reason.

The easiest thing you can do is to remove all debris laying on the track before you drive. Less headache. Just like Joost, when i see stones or twigs on the track i remove them when going to my post as marshall.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:06 PM   #828
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I remember having blow overs way back when I raced a 10L. I would watch in amazement and awe as the car went over not evening thinking to at least hit the brakes. Those were the days.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:12 AM   #829
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In comparison to 12th 1S 10.5t blinky on outdoor low traction mid size 1/10 tracks what is a Pro10 like to drive, more forgiving with tight corners? (thinking 2S 10.5) or should I just try WGT 1S 10.5t boosted? There is no pan car racing nearby but I have been driving 12th as practice towards Mod 2w buggy but finding it a little to challenging out of a few corners to be comparable.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:52 AM   #830
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the bigger the car the less nervous it should be to drive. (when the setup is correct for the track). On low traction condition you still need to feather the throttle out of corners though.

More weight on the tires helps the car out of corners, with 2s it is heavier so should be a little better. Softer tires at the back is almost mandatory when you drive on low traction asphalt.

If there is no one to help you out with setup or guidance it can be stressfull to get these cars running good as very small things can make a huge difference.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:03 AM   #831
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We have a pro10 235/200 mm 2S lipo race on 3th June here in Spain (Costa Daurada) 5 km from the beach.

If you dutch and german friends want to join here is the link:

http://www.rcsantaoliva.com/index.ph...orms&Itemid=57


My RCDevil is still broken and still waiting the parts to come from Germany. I will have to drive my Corally 10SL.

Thanks.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:19 AM   #832
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We had our second National on the beautifull track of the Mach.
Enlisted were 8 pro10 stock drivers, 21 pro10 modifieds (rc lemans) and 41 stock 13.5t tc's

Due to rain forecast and rain in the morning there were less drivers that attendet the race but it was still very busy in the paddock.

In the morning it was wet then it dried up, then it rained again and then a heat wave . It was a handfull to get the cars ready for half wet weather, half dried up track and then super warm weather in the afternoon.

In the afternoon the sun finaly got through and we had a really hot day of almost 30 degrees C

pictures http://www.machheemstede.nl/home/ind...2012&Itemid=17

With thanks, pictures from our german friends https://picasaweb.google.com/1061330...nsInHeemstede#
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:25 AM   #833
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it was few pages ago, tf-1, tf-2 and tf-3?

someone test it on bsr or jacos spec tires + asphalt with sugar/cola water?

in my case, gt10 class, bsr tires tf-1 seems beeter then tf-2, I put it for 30-40minutes.

any input?

i still wait for tf-3 ...
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:16 AM   #834
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hi,

question : which bodies for a 235mm pan car.?
many photos.?

thanks
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:46 AM   #835
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My new body.

It's a sauber mercedes c11, but i transformed it to a Canon porsche 956, driven by Jan Lammers in '83



Wip is a mix nissan transformed to a Marlboro Porsche also from '83

Both bodies are 235mm in width
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:25 AM   #836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westy1969 View Post
My new body.

It's a sauber mercedes c11, but i transformed it to a Canon porsche 956, driven by Jan Lammers in '83



Wip is a mix nissan transformed to a Marlboro Porsche also from '83

Both bodies are 235mm in width
I like that.
Good to know the Sauber can be transformed to a 956
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:31 PM   #837
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And the Marlboro Porsche





Need some final touches do..


Enjoy!
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:24 PM   #838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wdrive View Post
I am not sure a flat underbody will work. It will probably make it worse as more air is trapped underneath lifting the chassis more then normally would be the case when traveling at top speed. The fact pancars have a big hole between the front suspension is purely for that reason.

The easiest thing you can do is to remove all debris laying on the track before you drive. Less headache. Just like Joost, when i see stones or twigs on the track i remove them when going to my post as marshall.
Not only would it not work, it would also mean loss in downforce. As someoneelse posted, best advice is front wing/diffuser or ballast. Reason it flies when backwards is the rear is cut completely out, letting a lot of air inside but the front and sides are almost sealed on the ground. High preasure is made and up she goes. best option is to have enough downforce when going straight for it not to do any funny things.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:41 PM   #839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb525 View Post
Not only would it not work, it would also mean loss in downforce. As someoneelse posted, best advice is front wing/diffuser or ballast. Reason it flies when backwards is the rear is cut completely out, letting a lot of air inside but the front and sides are almost sealed on the ground. High preasure is made and up she goes. best option is to have enough downforce when going straight for it not to do any funny things.
True, but it was already in the air when it turned backwards. The reason it initially lifted the nose is mechanical (Twig+limited suspension travel).
Even with 1:1 LMP cars (or any with ground effects) it only takes a couple of degrees of nose up through a collision, or flat rear tyre to send them skyward at big speeds.
I'm not sure I'm into adding a front wing to an already high downforce shell as the extra front traction and drag is not going to help my laptimes. Likewise front ballast (not into making things heavier).
A clean track and keeping it off the kerbs is the cheapest and simplest option!

But saying that, I think I might give a flat undertray a try. (not to stop the LeMans moments, just for curiosity).
I will of course add mid/rear diffusers either side of the main chassis that exit between the inside of the rear wheel and side of motor pod, and make a rear pod mounted central diffuser to direct the exhausting air towards the underside of the rear wing.

These rear/side channels should increase downforce without incurring much more drag. As far as pressure build up under the front goes, I could add a central diffuser just behind the nose of the shell that would allow any air that makes it under there to escape through the top of the shell in front of the screen (Through the existing hole in my front bumper mount, over the chassis brace and servo).
I could also cut and curve the shell behind the front wheel arches to allow air caught in the wheel well to exit.

These measures, coupled with 1 or 2 degrees of nose down rake in the pan should help stick it to the ground.

Who knows, it could become a real weapon.... or a powered glider... but what else is a grown man to do with his time in the evenings once the kids are in bed!
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:58 PM   #840
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I've heard of people having good results doing similar things to an F1 car, though those have very little downforce to begin with, so every little bit helps alot. Be sure to post your findings, I am curious as well
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