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Old 04-06-2012, 01:01 AM   #721
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Interesting regarding wobbly diff plates out of the bag. I bought a used Rebel 12th scale recently, mainly for the spares. There is an unopened bag of 10 IRS diff rings
I have a pack of 10 D-rings and they all have a wobble. I used the IRS rings that came with my BMI db10rr and it feels much better then the D-ring i used for over a year and sanded already multiple times. I gues it still had a slight wobble in it.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:05 AM   #722
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Default two rows of balls

Hiya Pan folks,

It's true about 1 row of balls being better then 2.

Reason for this is simple, differential ball rotation speed causes stress within spur gear.

The inner row will be rotating at a higher speed then the outer row and will want to force the diff to diff out at a different ratio. so in effect, the inner row is "fighting" the outer row of balls when diffing happens... and that leads to premature wear and tear.

Get a good spur (i personally swear by xenon racing or kawada), use high quality ceramic diff balls (the black ones<Silicon Nitride Si3N4> are better then the silver ones <tungsten carbide>), sand your diff rings and always check that they are well lubed (with ball diff grease ONLY!!! other greases may cause slippage) and clean. Always make sure the diff is of the right tension.

I'd say pan cars are low maintenance, but diff maintenance is a must to ensure consistency.

Do not tune your car with diff, as you may have read on the net (it's a very, very fine tuning... like 1/16th of a turn in or out, maybe less...), a badly adjusted diff will cause more problems for you, then if you had adjusted with other parts of the car... such as tires, roll centre, ride height, scrub, camber and caster etc...

Pan car a-go-go!

-Alexander
p.s. I am looking for a yokomo yrx-2000wc!
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:06 AM   #723
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Reason for this is simple, differential ball rotation speed causes stress within spur gear.

The inner row will be rotating at a higher speed then the outer row and will want to force the diff to diff out at a different ratio. so in effect, the inner row is "fighting" the outer row of balls when diffing happens... and that leads to premature wear and tear.
This may seem that way but they don't. The rotating speed is actually the same on both rows. If the spurgear turns at say 10.000rpm, both rows turn the same speed. But the centrifugal force of the two rows is different and that may cause the diff to scrub and what you said the rows are fighting each other is therefore true.

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Get a good spur (i personally swear by xenon racing or kawada)
Personally I think that the Xenon spurs' material is too hard and in a hard breaking situation the teeth tend to break more easy than a Kimbrough which is of a little tougher material. The Xenons may run somewhat truer but they loose teeth faster. Just my experience, if it works for you, use them. It also depends on how long the straight-away is and how fast the top speed is before the first corner. We reach high speeds at our track and sometimes high breaking is involved.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:41 AM   #724
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Default PX10W

With a friend i have designed a 235mm pancar based on the crc x10.


Yesterday, the chassis is milled and today i start building it.
Without some minor errors, that were easy to ajusted the build went fine.

So enjoy the PX10W











Cant wait to test it on the track.
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:13 PM   #725
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Very interesting!

But how do you link the two elements under the carbon plate?
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:25 AM   #726
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The batteries you mean?

Simple... Just take two 4mm bullet connectors and a short piece of 12gauge wire and make a small bridge between the two batteries. As you can see, these batteries have the connector holes sitting lower than the top of the battery...

Awesome design Kees!!! But I already told you on the other forum...
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:35 AM   #727
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Hello indeed what Joost says there a bridge between them.
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:27 AM   #728
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@Westy...Wicked looking car
Hope to see it in person at monday
Still looking for time to build my car.
Got some nice parts deliverd in the mail yesterday
Now searching for time to put them together so it will look like a real car.
@Joost....Is it ok that i put some pic's up on the way of building the car??

regards Roy
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Old 04-07-2012, 03:34 AM   #729
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No problem Roy! I am curious too about your car so post away!!!
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:55 AM   #730
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joost K. View Post
The batteries you mean?

Simple... Just take two 4mm bullet connectors and a short piece of 12gauge wire and make a small bridge between the two batteries. As you can see, these batteries have the connector holes sitting lower than the top of the battery...

Awesome design Kees!!! But I already told you on the other forum...
Average idea, my saddle packs do not have lowered connector holes... Everythin is at the same level...

By the way, would it be possible to buy this conversion kit?
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:56 AM   #731
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Its a homemade design so its not for sale. We did the milling our selves.
Some small changes have to be made to the design, it is was designed to use 3 damper in stead of 1 damper and 2 tubes so the top deck of the motorpod need some small changes.

Version PX10W.1 will be release soon.
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:02 AM   #732
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To stay in the proto type cars, here is another one freshly build.
All it needs are electronics and a fresh body
The other one(on the right) is my old car.

regards Roy
Attached Thumbnails
Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-rollend-chassis.jpg   Pro 10: 235mm Le Mans Prototype Pan Car Discussion-asso-academy.jpg  
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:11 AM   #733
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Nice Roy, thats what i call the Joost Ride!
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:14 AM   #734
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Yeah and mine
Pic's where taken as i build it

regards Roy

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Nice Roy, thats what i call the Joost Ride!
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:52 PM   #735
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Yups, OUR cars now... My design, only for the first time two owners and drivers...

Looks good Roy! I did it again :P

Looks like you are going to drive it sooner than I am LOL...
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